by Janis / 0 comments - Orginally published:6th October 2026
Our idyllic Provençal retreat
Yes, I believe our little secret may now be out of the bag, as the gorgeous, alluring town of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in the South of France is becoming slightly busier with fellow visitors. Nonetheless, its idyllic Provençal charm and character will always win over our hearts.
After our first memorable visit to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in 2012 we have embraced Saint-Rémy on four further occasions, using it as a base to discover the Provençal countryside and hilltop villages beyond. Saint-Rémy is such a delightful town to return to in the afternoon, with so many welcoming restaurants and bars to indulge in.
So, after rolling off Le Shuttle at Calais, we visited the Art Deco town of Saint-Quentin in Hauts-de-France, then headed to the picturesque town of Dole in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, and further south to Chambéry, in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. From there we headed to another favourite spot of ours: Sanary-sur-Mer on the Côte d'Azur.
Why not Pin it for later?
During our EV French road trip, we have kept to the back roads of France as much as possible; however, on this leg we visited the bustling Provence city of Aix-en-Provence. After leaving Aix, we searched out those quiet roads once again.
Picturesque sights in Saint-Rémy
We have three nights in the Provençal gem of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, then hit the road again to visit Béziers and head back north to Cahors, Angoulême, and Vendôme.
Did you catch our further inspiration for this French road trip?
Where is Saint-Rémy-de-Provence?
How to get to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
- By Car
Departing from the UK to France, there are various options. You can either jump on Le Shuttle and arrive in Calais in 35 minutes or enjoy a leisurely cruise on the open waves with Brittany Ferries, DFDS or P&O.
- By Air
If you’re flying into France, search for flights to Marseille Provence Airport (MRS) for the easiest access to Sanary-sur-Mer. From the airport, it’s around 1 hour by car, or approximately 1½–2 hours by public transport, typically travelling via Marseille and Toulon.
My Francophile love of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Shhh, it’s between you and meThis is the second post I’ve written on Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, and my love of the town grows more every time we visit. I must admit, if I were wealthy, I’d love to have a home here, although I’m a bit of a wuss when the heat reaches 30 degrees; ahh well, there’s always aircon.
Chez Mulot les Pin'Up
Gary and I rarely visit a location more than once, but a handful of places have won our hearts. The first is my birth city of London, more precisely Greenwich; then Seville in Andalusia; Sanary-sur-Mer on the Côte d'Azur; and, saving the best for last is the beautiful town of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.
Of course, the wheels are already in motion for a return visit in 2027.
Terre e Provence
Prior to us heading off on our 2024 adventure, a Marcus Wareing food show aired on the BBC called Marcus Wareing Simply Provence, which you can catch on iPlayer. We couldn’t believe it, as he based himself in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and visited local suppliers and food producers to source delicious Provençal ingredients. Marcus spent several weeks living and cooking around Saint-Rémy, so we recognised many places and took some great food tips from him.
Stay informed
You will find us across many forms of social media. You will find our latest posts, some throwbacks, links to historic events with our 'On this day' posts, across Facebook, X, Bluesky & Threads. Each week, themed visual content on Instagram, and our narrated travels on YouTube. Collections of the images in our posts are also collated into boards on Pinterest.
A brief history of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Romans, Van Gogh and traditional marketsSaint-Rémy-de-Provence has the depth of history that feels almost inseparable from the landscape around it. Sitting at the northern foot of the Alpilles, the area has been inhabited for thousands of years, but its most impressive early chapter lies just outside the modern town at Glanum. Originally settled by Celtic-Ligurian peoples, Glanum later came under Greek influence before developing into an important Roman town, which is stunning to wander around.
Well preserved remains at Glanum
The Saint-Rémy we see today developed a little further north during the Middle Ages. The town grew behind defensive walls, traces of which can still be picked out around the historic centre. Over the centuries it prospered as a small agricultural and trading town, surrounded by fertile countryside filled with vineyards, olive groves and orchards.
Fontaine Nostradamus
Porte Saint-Paul
Its narrow lanes, old fountains, shady squares, and elegant townhouses remind us that Saint-Rémy wasn't simply a rural village; it became an important local centre for the communities of the Alpilles.
The fountain in St Remy
One of the town's most famous connections came much later, in 1889, when Vincent van Gogh voluntarily admitted himself to the Saint-Paul-de-Mausole asylum on the outskirts of Saint-Rémy. He stayed for around a year and produced an extraordinary number of paintings inspired by the surrounding countryside. Among the works associated with his time here is The Starry Night, along with numerous paintings of olive trees, cypresses and the landscapes of the Alpilles. I urge you to visit Saint-Paul-de-Mausole and stroll through the emotive scenery; it feels surprisingly familiar from his stunning paintings.
A little shed at Saint-Paul-de-Mausole
What makes Saint-Rémy particularly appealing today is that all these different periods sit comfortably alongside everyday Provençal life. Roman ruins lie just beyond town, medieval streets form its historic heart, and cafés and restaurants spill onto squares beneath the plane trees.
Vibrant local produce
Add the traditional Wednesday market, the surrounding olive groves and vineyards, and the rugged backdrop of the Alpilles, and Saint-Rémy feels less like a town preserved purely for its history and more like a place where that history remains part of its character.
Explore the charismatic lanes of Saint-Rémy
Provençal charm around every cornerAs you step within the heart of Saint-Rémy Old Town, it truly feels like a village within the town. The main boulevards encircling St Rémy are lined with grand plane trees that offer welcoming dappled shade during the warmer months.
Mairie de Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
The enchanting core of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is a delightful maze of narrow, tiled streets that are mainly pedestrianised, which is quite handy as you often find yourself stopping in your tracks to admire beautiful historic buildings and picture-perfect shopfronts.
Archway to where?
Rue de la Commune, St Remy
Each little boutique, curio shop, café, and enticing local produce store tempts you with offerings that are hard to decline. The aromas that emanate from the shops are irresistible; the smell of lavender always wins me over.
In Saint-Rémy, you’ll also be allured by the fragrant soaps, oils (essential and olive), the mouthwatering cheeses, nougat, and, of course, the “Herbes de Provence”.
Quiet lanes in Saint-Rémy
Pleasant evening stroll
When you’re meandering through Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, don’t just stick to the quaint central streets; explore what’s beyond. Believe me, it is idyllic to stroll among narrow lanes and find tiny courtyards and squares that almost seem forgotten, with fragrant window boxes and painted shutters thrown open to the Provence skies.
France Tourist Information
If you’re tempted to tour France and discover all the delightful things it has to offer, take a peek at the official French Tourism website. The local tourist offices dotted around the towns and cities provide some extremely useful information and handy pointers for around each region.
The vibrant markets in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Where the streets come aliveNow, if you love a French market, then Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is the place to visit, whether it’s for the traditional Grand Marché Provençal, a balmy evening night market or La Route des Artistes, also known as the Fête de l’Art; Saint-Rémy is the place for you.
Pots, bowls and straw shopping bags
The Wednesday market in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is a sight to behold; it’s one of those occasions when the town’s whole character seems to change. Every Wednesday morning, roughly 8am to 1pm, the Grand Marché Provençal spreads from Place de la République through the streets and squares of the historic centre. Rather than being confined to a single marketplace, stalls seem to appear everywhere, turning the centre of Saint-Rémy into a wonderfully colourful and bustling Provençal scene.
There always must be garlic
Food is a huge part of the experience. You'll find stalls piled high with seasonal fruit and vegetables, herbs and spices, cheeses, honey, olives and locally produced olive oils, alongside Provençal specialities and wines from the Alpilles.
So, many olives
While wending our way through the lanes, we spotted a rotisserie chicken stall. Although it wasn’t so much the chicken that caught our eye as the delicious, sliced potatoes at the bottom, which caught the jus, they seemed more popular than the chickens.
Rotisserie chicken & delicious potatoes
Something for everyone
Depending on the season, you might find tomatoes, artichokes, truffles, and other produce grown nearby, while olive and lavender products are particularly associated with the area. But it isn't purely a food market: there are also flowers, clothing, baskets, fabrics, household linens, crafts, jewellery, dried lavender and plenty of distinctly Provençal souvenirs.
Stunning handmade knives
Perhaps the nicest thing, though, is the atmosphere. On an ordinary morning, Saint-Rémy can feel quite relaxed, but on Wednesday the historic centre fills with sound, colour and movement. Traders call to customers, locals stop for conversations, cafés fill their terraces and the smells of bread, herbs, fruit, cheese and lavender drift between the stalls. We felt Saint-Rémy’s beautiful market remains a local weekly tradition rather than something staged for visitors.
A selection of Provençal soaps
After a few hours strolling around, we headed back to our hotel with handfuls of goodies, especially a couple of French sunhats which were undoubtedly welcome. One last note to add is the incredible efficiency with which the streets are cleaned. After just a few hours of the market closing, you would never believe hundreds of market-goers were ever here.
The summer night market in Saint-Rémy
When the balmy evenings rolls inNow, not only is there the Wednesday weekly market, but in the summer months there’s also a Tuesday night market known as the Marché nocturne des Créateurs, or Night Market of Creators. This market is much more about local arts, crafts, and enjoying a warm Provençal evening than stocking up on fruit, vegetables, and cheese. It has become a regular summer feature in Saint-Rémy and attracts both locals and visitors.
Handmade ornaments in St Remy
The night market takes over the heart of the old town, particularly around Place Jules-Pellissier and the picturesque town hall, with more than 60 exhibitors on some evenings. The market emphasises on genuine creators and artisans rather than ordinary market traders, so you'll find handmade jewellery, ceramics and pottery, clothing, leather goods, decorative pieces and glasswork, along with paintings and sculpture. Exhibitors are selected with an emphasis on originality and quality.
Saint-Rémy night market
What probably makes Saint-Rémy’s night market particularly enjoyable, though, is the setting. As the heat of the day starts to fade, the streets remain busy into the evening, and many of Saint-Rémy's shops and art galleries stay open late. The café and restaurant terraces fill up too, so you can wander around the stalls for a while, stop for dinner or a glass of wine, and then continue exploring the little streets of the historic centre after dark.
Marché nocturne des Créateurs
The Marché nocturne des Créateurs runs on Tuesday evenings from around mid-June to early September, starting at 7pm and continuing until around midnight. So, there's quite a nice contrast between Saint-Rémy's two markets: Wednesday morning is the colourful, bustling traditional Provençal market, while Tuesday evening is slower and more atmospheric, centred around artists.
Places to visit in France
If you adore road trippin’ through France like we do, exploring north, south, east, and west, then take a peek at the captivating destinations in our French location posts. You’ll find so many gorgeous villages, towns and cities, some you may have heard of; however, I’m sure you’ll find new inspiration.
Fête de l’Art in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
An open-air galleryWe’ve also visited when there was an event traditionally known as La Route des Artistes in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, an open-air art event held on a Sunday, where local artists set up around the streets and boulevards of the town centre to exhibit and sell their delightful work.
The art market in la place Jules Pelissier
Historically, it has attracted around 150 artists, with paintings, sculpture, photography and other original work. It is only held a few times a year and is now known as Fête de l’Art.
The art market
It’s such a joyful experience strolling through the sun-dappled squares and Provençal lanes; the eclectic mix of vibrant art and sculptures truly brings the streets alive. Saint-Rémy transforms into an open-air gallery, with artists, artisans, and creators taking over the streets.
Discovering history in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Following in the footsteps of times pastThe charming Musée Estrine is tucked away in the historic heart of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and, in my opinion, it is worth visiting for the building as much as the art. It occupies the elegant Hôtel Estrine, an 18th century mansion built in 1748. The property eventually passed to the Estrine family and, after the town acquired it in 1988, was restored and opened as an art centre in 1989.
Musée Estrine
Gerard Fromanger – La Pievina
Today the museum focuses particularly on 20th and 21st century painting and graphic art, with artists including Albert Gleizes, André Marchand, Bernard Buffet, and Vincent Bioulès represented in its collections, as well as many temporary exhibitions. The museum was officially awarded the prestigious Musée de France status in 2007.
Juliette Roche – The Jardin des Mejades
There's also a particularly strong connection with Vincent van Gogh, as you can imagine, as he lived in Saint-Rémy from May 1889 until May 1890. Rather than being a museum filled with Van Gogh originals, Musée Estrine has a dedicated Vincent van Gogh Interpretation Centre that explores his life, work, and the enormous influence he had on the art world. It makes the museum a lovely introduction to his time here before heading out to see some of those landscapes for yourself.
Saint-Martin Church
The Collégiale Saint-Martin is one of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence’s most prominent landmarks, with a church on the site documented as far back as 1122 and elevated to collegiate status by Pope John XXII in 1331. After much of the medieval church collapsed in 1818, it was rebuilt in a grand Neoclassical style in 1821, while retaining its historic bell tower.
The organ in the Collégiale Saint-Martin
Inside the Collégiale Saint-Martin
Inside, one highlight is the impressive Grand Organ, rebuilt in 1983 with around 5,000 pipes, and still used for Saint-Rémy’s regular organ concerts and the Organa festival. The church is a lovely place to visit for a little bit of peace and solace.
Places to visit near Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Glanum and Saint-Paul-de-Mausole
Just south of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, at the foot of the Alpilles, lies Glanum, an extraordinary archaeological site that takes the area’s story back more than 2,500 years. If you are staying in Saint- Rémy, I urge you to visit Glanum, especially when it first opens in the morning; it is so emotive.
The Triumphal Arch at Glanum
The Salyens, a Gallic people, began settling here around the 6th century BC, partly attracted by a permanent spring they considered sacred and dedicated to the local god Glan. The settlement subsequently absorbed strong Greek influences before coming under Roman control, eventually developing into an impressive Roman town with a forum, temples, thermal baths, public buildings and substantial private houses.
Walking through the ancient town
Glanum was gradually abandoned during the 3rd century AD, and many of its stones were later reused as people settled further north around what would become modern Saint-Rémy. Over time, the ancient town disappeared beneath several metres of sediment, leaving only two great monuments visible: the triumphal arch and the remarkably preserved Mausoleum of the Julii, together traditionally known as Les Antiques.
Climb up to get a better view
Incredibly systematic archaeological excavations began in 1921, revealing the extensive remains we can explore today. It's a fascinating place because you can quite literally walk through successive layers of Gallic, Greek-influenced and Roman Provence, all against the dramatic backdrop of the Alpilles.
The gardens of Saint-Paul-de-Mausole
Saint-Paul-de-Mausole also lies just outside Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, close to the ancient ruins of Glanum. Its history stretches back around a thousand years: a monastery was established here in the 11th century, with its beautiful Romanesque cloister dating from the 11th and 12th centuries. Over the centuries, the religious community also developed a tradition of caring for people with mental illness, and after the French Revolution, the former monastery became a private psychiatric asylum.
Statue of Vincent Van Gogh
The cloister garden
Today, however, Saint-Paul-de-Mausole is best known for its connection with Vincent van Gogh. He voluntarily entered the asylum on 8 May 1889 during a very troubled period of his life; the previous year he had severed off his own left ear. Vincent remained here until 16 May 1890, producing 143 oil paintings during his 53 weeks there.
The gardens, olive trees, wheat fields, cypresses and dramatic Alpilles landscape inspired some of his most famous work, including Irises and The Starry Night.
Vincent Van Gogh’s room in Saint-Paul-de-Mausole
Saint-Paul-de-Mausole is such a beautiful place to explore. We’ve visited a couple of times; you can now discover the Romanesque cloister, see a reconstruction of Van Gogh's room and walk through the gardens, where large reproductions of paintings are positioned close to the landscapes that inspired Van Gogh to paint them. Remarkably, Saint-Paul also continues its centuries-old role as a place of psychiatric care today.
Visiting Carrières des Lumières
In a monumental limestone quarryAnother fantastic place we visited was Carrières des Lumières, and I know we will be returning again. The Carrières des Lumières are hidden inside enormous former limestone quarries at Les Baux-de-Provence, in the dramatic Val d’Enfer at the heart of the Alpilles.
Inside Carrières des Lumières
Quarrying began here around 1800, with the pale local limestone used extensively for building throughout the region, but the quarry eventually closed in 1935 as concrete and steel replaced traditional stone. The extraordinary cavernous spaces later found a new artistic purpose — Jean Cocteau filmed scenes for The Testament of Orpheus here in 1959, and from the late 1970s the quarry began hosting spectacular sound-and-light presentations.
Claude Monet, - projected
Today, Carrières des Lumières is one of Provence's most unusual art experiences. Since 2012, digital projections and music have transformed its immense walls, pillars, and floors, allowing visitors quite literally to walk through the works of famous artists.
Le Petit Prince
More than 7,000 square metres of the quarry are covered by projections, creating a constantly moving world of colour and sound. Each year brings new programmes devoted to major artists; in 2025, when we visited, the famous artists were Claude Monet (who I particularly love, see our post on Giverny) and Henri Rousseau.
The exhibition is amazing and especially memorable because of the monumental limestone quarry it sits in; it is as much a part of the experience as the artworks themselves.
Crit'Air vignette required for driving in France
If you’re heading to France from the UK with your own vehicle, you’ll need a Crit’Air ‘clean air’ car sticker.
Just like our low-emission zones in the UK, France now legally requires the display of a Crit’Air vignette. The good news is, these stickers are readily available and affordable online through the official French government website.
The Crit’Air sticker lasts the lifetime of the vehicle, so it’s a one-off purchase. The RAC website offers an in-depth guide to everything you need to know and your requirements.
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