by Janis / 0 comments - Orginally published:8th September 2026
The perfect Côte d’Azur hideaway
We are now heading further south in France to the charming and historic coastal town of Sanary-sur-Mer along the Côte d’Azur, as our incredible two-week French road trip continues.
After rolling off the Le Shuttle at Calais, we visited the Art Deco town of Saint-Quentin in Hauts-de-France, then headed to the picturesque town of Dole in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, and further south to Chambéry, in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region.
During our EV French road trip, we have kept to the back roads of France as much as possible, especially on this journey south to Sanary-sur-Mer. We tour amongst the scenic countryside and stop by Lake of Sainte-Croix to enjoy the stunning views.
We have two nights in the coastal gem of Sanary-sur-Mer, then hit the road again to visit Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, Béziers, and head back north to Cahors, Angoulême, and Vendôme.
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Lake of Sainte-Croix
Did you catch our further inspiration for this French road trip?
Where is Sanary-sur-Mer?
How to get to Sanary-sur-Mer
- By Car
Departing from the UK to France, there are various options. You can either jump on Le Shuttle and arrive in Calais in 35 minutes or enjoy a leisurely cruise on the open waves with Brittany Ferries, DFDS or P&O.
- By Air
If you’re flying into France, search for flights to Marseille Provence Airport (MRS) for the easiest access to Sanary-sur-Mer. From the airport, it’s around 1 hour by car, or approximately 1½–2 hours by public transport, typically travelling via Marseille and Toulon.
The secret is out for Sanary-sur-Mer
Shhh, don’t tell everyoneI was in a dilemma as to whether to write this post, as I feel that Gary and I have encountered an absolute gem along the desirable Côte d’Azur, and I selfishly didn’t want to share it. Don’t get me wrong, I love the towns of Saint-Tropez and Villefranche-sur-Mer, but they can be a little pretentious at times and Nice and Antibes can get very busy.
Sanary harbour at night
However, Sanary-sur-Mer feels as though the locals still keep this beautiful town firmly in their grasp. Yes, of course, it attracts visitors, but I feel, like us, everyone else wants to keep Sanary-sur-Mer a secret too. Take a peek at the Sanary-sur-Mer tourism website for some valuable information.
Stay informed
You will find us across many forms of social media. You will find our latest posts, some throwbacks, links to historic events with our 'On this day' posts, across Facebook, X, Bluesky & Threads. Each week, themed visual content on Instagram, and our narrated travels on YouTube. Collections of the images in our posts are also collated into boards on Pinterest.
A brief history of Sanary-sur-Mer
A Provençal delightSanary-sur-Mer has that perfectly relaxed Provençal feel today, but its history is closely tied to the sea. For centuries it was little more than a small fishing settlement clustered around a sheltered natural harbour on the Mediterranean shores.
Hôtel de Ville, Sanary
Originally known as Saint-Nazaire, it was associated with the neighbouring town of Ollioules until the late 17th century, when it became an independent community. Fishing, small-scale trade and boatbuilding were at the heart of everyday life in Sanary, and you can still sense that maritime past around the colourful harbour, fisherman bringing into harbour their fruitful catch to sell at the waterfront market.
Sanary harbour with the Tour de Sanary
One of the town’s most historic landmarks and free to visit is the Tour de Sanary, a medieval watchtower dating from around the 13th century. It was built as part of the coastal defences at a time when communities along this stretch of the Mediterranean were vulnerable to raids from the perilous sea.
Fish stall at Sanary market
Over the centuries, Sanary’s little port gradually expanded around it. Sanary remained very much a working fishing village and has gradually transitioned into the welcoming resort we see today.
Further tales of Sanary-sur-Mer
Enjoying the colourful harbourfrontThings began to change in Sanary-sur-Mer during the 19th and early 20th centuries as the Côte d’Azur became increasingly popular with visitors. Artists and writers were particularly attracted to Sanary’s Mediterranean light and comparatively unspoilt atmosphere.
Cinema at Sanary-sur-Mer
One especially interesting chapter came during the 1930s, when the town became a refuge for German and Austrian intellectuals fleeing Nazi Germany. Among those who spent time here were writers Thomas Mann, Heinrich Mann, and Bertolt Brecht. For a few remarkable years, this small Provençal fishing town became an unlikely centre of German-language literature in exile. Historic plaques dotted around Sanary-sur-Mer tell their intriguing story.
Vibrant harbour of Sanary-sur-Mer
The town officially became Sanary-sur-Mer in 1923, and although tourism eventually replaced fishing as one of its main industries, Sanary has managed to retain much of its traditional character. The harbour is still filled with brightly painted pointus, the distinctive wooden fishing boats of Provence. At the same time, the narrow streets behind the waterfront reveal the older village beneath the more modern resort.
Lou Pantai in Sanary harbour
That mixture is really what makes Sanary so appealing. You have the sunshine, palm trees, cafés and yachts of the Mediterranean coast, but just beneath the surface there's a much older story of fishermen, sailors, coastal defence and, rather unexpectedly, some of Europe's most important 20th-century writers. It gives Sanary-sur-Mer considerably more character than you might expect from what at first appears to be simply a very pretty seaside town.
Places to visit in France
If you adore road trippin’ through France like we do, exploring north, south, east, and west, then take a peek at the captivating destinations in our French location posts. You’ll find so many gorgeous villages, towns and cities, some you may have heard of; however, I’m sure you’ll find new inspiration.
Discover the historic lanes of Sanary-sur-Mer
Following in the footsteps of times pastJust a few steps away from Sanary-sur-Mer’s lively harbour, the town quickly changes character as you wander into its narrow historic lanes. These little streets are gorgeously Provençal, twisting between closely packed houses painted in warm ochres, creams and soft pastels, with colourful shutters, wrought-iron balconies and pots overflowing with flowers.
Bustling lanes in Sanary
Historic cobbled streets
Many of the lanes grew organically from the old fishing settlement, when keeping homes close together provided shade from the fierce summer sun and some protection from the mistral winds.
Sanary lanes at night
A tranquil evening in Sanary
There’s no great need for a map here; much of the pleasure comes from simply wandering. Tiny passages suddenly open onto little squares, cafés appear beneath shady trees, and glimpses between the buildings effortlessly lead you back towards the glistening azure waters of the Mediterranean coast.
Relaxing in the dappled shade
Look closely, and you'll find reminders of the town's maritime past alongside boutiques, galleries and everyday Provençal life. Despite Sanary's popularity as a seaside resort, these old streets still have an intimate, lived-in quality, and they’re arguably one of the nicest places to slow down and discover the town’s quieter side.
France Tourist Information
If you’re tempted to tour France and discover all the delightful things it has to offer, take a peek at the official French Tourism website. The local tourist offices dotted around the towns and cities provide some extremely useful information and handy pointers for around each region.
The vibrant markets of Sanary-sur-Mer
The streets come aliveOh, we loved strolling through Sanary-sur-Mer's lively markets. The special daily and weekly markets play a big part in everyday life in Sanary-sur-Mer, adding even more colour to an already vibrant town.
A selection of saucisson
Each morning, the Allées d’Estienne d’Orves, just beside the harbour, fill with the sights, sounds and smells of a traditional Provençal food market. Stalls are piled with seasonal fruit and vegetables, cheeses, charcuterie and other local produce.
Locally caught fish
Nearby you'll find flowers and, on most days, fresh fish and seafood. There are also fishermen selling their own catch directly on the harbour when the weather and the day's fishing allow, which feels particularly appropriate in a town with such a strong fishing heritage.
Apparently Wednesday morning’s market is the one to remember. That's when Sanary's Grand Marché spreads along the harbour and beneath the palm trees, with more than 300 traders selling everything from Provençal food and flowers to clothes, pottery, crafts and household goods.
Sanary market under palm trees
It's meant to be quite an event, and in 2018 it was voted France's most beautiful market by viewers of French television channel TF1. The combination of bustling stalls, palm trees, colourful fishing boats and the Mediterranean just a few steps away makes it feel less like shopping and more like part of the Sanary experience.
If you're here during July or August, the atmosphere carries on into the evening, when an artisan night market appears along the harbour and is open from 7:30pm until midnight.
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Visiting Saint-Nazaire church
And the Chapel Notre-Dame de PitiéStanding majestically just behind Sanary-sur-Mer’s colourful harbour, the Église Saint Nazaire feels as though it has been part of the old town forever. However, the church you see today is actually relatively young.
Église Saint Nazaire
The Nave of Église Saint Nazaire
A parish church was established here in the 16th century, but by the late 1800s the old building was replaced. The present church was constructed at the instigation of Michel Pacha, Sanary’s influential mayor and benefactor, in a Romanesque-inspired style with Byzantine influences. Its tall stone spire has since become one of the familiar landmarks of the waterfront.
Interestingly, one of its four bells dates from 1734 and survives from the earlier church. Local public figures gratefully sponsored or donated the other three bells.
Inside Église Saint Nazaire
Step inside the beautiful Église Saint Nazaire and there’s quite a surprise waiting for you. The walls are covered with richly coloured Byzantine-inspired frescoes, created by artist Jean-Baptiste Garrigou in the 2000s.
The stunning frescoes follow the story of Christ and give the interior a wonderfully atmospheric, almost Eastern Mediterranean character that you might not expect from the fairly restrained exterior.
Pascal Quoirin organ
Ornate Frescoes
The church is also known for its impressive Pascal Quoirin organ, installed in 2007, and is regularly used for concerts. So, although Saint-Nazaire isn't one of Sanary's oldest surviving buildings, it has become part of the town's unique identity, and its position beside the harbour makes it difficult to miss as you explore the old centre.
Chapelle Notre-Dame de Pitié
A short stroll up La Montée des Oratoires walk brings you to the much older Chapelle Notre-Dame de Pitié. This charming little chapel was built in 1560 on the hill above the sea and dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
The religious sanctuary had particularly strong connections with Sanary's fishermen: a resident hermit not only cared for the chapel but also watched the coastline, sounding the bell or raising the alarm when storms, fog or hostile ships threatened the village.
Inside the Chapelle Notre-Dame de Pitié
Inside the chapel you'll find maritime ex-votos (gifts), left in gratitude for protection or survival at sea, together with a beautiful polychrome wooden Pietà. The Chapelle Notre-Dame de Pitié was a delight to visit, but I would also add that it’s worth the climb for the setting alone.
The chapel overlooks Sanary and the Mediterranean Sea, giving you a lovely sense of why generations of sailors and fishermen regarded this little hilltop sanctuary with such affection.
The idyllic Portissol Beach
One gorgeous bay not to missPortissol Beach is one of those lovely little Mediterranean spots that feels surprisingly tucked away despite being only about a 15-minute walk from the centre of Sanary-sur-Mer.
Portissol Beach
The beach curves around a small, sheltered bay, with around 200 metres of sand and beautifully clear water, and because it faces west, it can be a particularly lovely place to watch the sun go down.
There’s more to Portissol than simply lying on the beach, though. The bay is known for its rich underwater life, and during the summer there's even a guided underwater trail where you can snorkel and explore the marine environment. Archaeological finds also suggest that this peaceful little bay was occupied in Greek and Roman times, giving Portissol a surprisingly long history beneath its modern seaside charm.
An evening by Portissol Bay
We’ve tried a couple of lovely restaurants in this exquisite bay and can highly recommend both, the Ô Petit Monde and Le Bard'ô.
Crit'Air vignette required for driving in France
If you’re heading to France from the UK with your own vehicle, you’ll need a Crit’Air ‘clean air’ car sticker.
Just like our low-emission zones in the UK, France now legally requires the display of a Crit’Air vignette. The good news is, these stickers are readily available and affordable online through the official French government website.
The Crit’Air sticker lasts the lifetime of the vehicle, so it’s a one-off purchase. The RAC website offers an in-depth guide to everything you need to know and your requirements.
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