Canals, charisma and culture
After our idyllic stay in Saint-Remy-de-Provence, our French road trip journey continues southwest to Sète in Occitania. However, we’re not heading there directly, as we’ve stumbled upon the magnificent Medieval walled city of Aigues-Mortes.
During our EV French road trip, we kept to the back roads of France as much as possible. After rolling off Le Shuttle at Calais, we visited the delightful medieval towns of Provins in Île-de-France and Semur-en-Auxois in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté. We explored Sisteron, located at the foot of the breath-taking Rocher de la Baume in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, and also visited Antibes on the Mediterranean coast.
Oh yes, we couldn’t miss out on staying at one of our favourite places in France, Saint-Remy-de-Provence. From here, we headed off on a mini road trip to experience seven more Provence towns and villages.
We’re staying in Sète for one delightful evening, and then we hit the road again, heading back north to Albi, Bergerac, Poitiers, and Le Mans.
Did you catch our inspiration for this French road trip?
Where is Sète?
How to get to Sète
- By car
Departing from the UK to France, there are various options. You can either jump on Le Shuttle and arrive in Calais in 35 minutes or enjoy a leisurely cruise on the open waves with Brittany Ferries, DFDS or P&O.
- By plane
If you’re flying into France, search for your flights within your preferred travel search engine for your favoured routes and chosen dates. Pre-book your hire car from Rental Cars, and your adventure begins.
Stay informed
Brief history of Sète
A Harbour Created by a King in 1666
Sète was built around the rocky hill of Mont Saint-Clair, which had been a pivotal lookout point for centuries.
Remarkably, Sète is a relatively young town in comparison to France’s rich historical past. It was founded in 1666 under the orders of King Louis XIV, who desired a deep-water port to connect the Canal du Midi with the Mediterranean Sea.
The first breakwater was inaugurated on 29th July 1666 on the Saint-Louis pier, marking the official “birth” of Sète. The Canal du Midi was completed in May 1681, and Vauban, King Louis XIV’s prominent military engineer, visited the port in 1684.
The new harbour would serve to strengthen Royal control over trade and provide a strategic Naval anchor on France’s southern coastline.
The Canal du Midi was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996 for its exceptional engineering and design. The canal was originally named the Canal Royal en Languedoc and renamed by French Revolutionaries to the Canal du Midi in 1789.
Once the port was established, Sète grew rapidly. Its sheltered position made it a thriving maritime hub for wine exports from the Languedoc region. Also, salt harvested from nearby lagoons of the Camargue and fish and seafood, particularly sardines and anchovies.
Fishing is the lifeblood of Sète; by the 19th century, it became one of France’s major Mediterranean fishing ports. Even today, Sète has the largest French fishing fleet on the Mediterranean.
Venture to Sète in August and you’ll experience the famous water jousting tournament for the Saint-Louis Festival.
Where to stay in Sète
The Hôtel ibis budget Sète Centre is a comfortable hotel that offers ample parking, making it an ideal choice for road trips. The hotel is around a 10 to 15-minute walk to Quai Général Durand.
Free parking is available onsite, with chargeable EV facilities.
Ambling the quays & canals of Sète
The “Venice of Languedoc”
Exploring the canals and quays of Sète is one of the true pleasures of visiting this vibrant Mediterranean port town, and captures the town’s unique blend of maritime magnetism. Criss-crossing the bridges and canals is such an enjoyable experience.
Sète is threaded with shimmering canals that link the Étang de Thau lagoon to the open sea, creating a vibrant waterfront scene that feels authentically lived-in rather than staged for visitors. As you wander along its bustling quays, you’ll pass colourful fishing boats and lively seafood restaurants grilling the day’s catch. Believe me, the tuna was delicious.
France Tourist Information
The relaxing charm of Sète
Water, water everywhere
Sète has a maritime heart with a Bohemian soul; it retains its working-port authenticity while embracing culture and creativity. Ensure you visit its renowned fish market, the bustling covered market in the old Town and seek out its mesmerising street art.
One of the main quaysides to amble along is ‘le Cadre Royal’, which is in fact the old Royal canal, located between the bridges of ‘Savonnerie’ and ‘Civette’.
It’s along "le Cadre Royal" where the famous annual jousting tournaments have taken place every summer, since July 1666, in celebration of the Saint-Louis Festival. The spectacle is both athletic and theatrical, and Sète is one of the few places which continues to embrace this unique art.
You can spot these vibrantly coloured boats dotted along le Cadre Canal.
The magnificent bay is now connected by the Canal du Rhône à Sète to the river Rhône and by the Canal du Midi to Bordeaux via Toulouse. The lagoon also has access to the Mediterranean at Sète.
If you’re lucky, you may also spot some flamingos, we did see them; but a little too far into the distance to take a photo.
I love nothing more than planning a trip through France and so often I use the DK Eyewitness books. I find them extremely informative, easy to follow and the pictures and maps tempt you into discovering more.
We used a previous version of this book to plan our French road trips, now you can grab the revised copy.
The charm of Sète
Strolling the historic streets
Crit'Air vignette required for driving in France
If you’re heading to France from the UK with your own vehicle, you’ll need a Crit’Air ‘clean air’ car sticker.
Just like our low-emission zones in the UK, France now legally requires the display of a Crit’Air vignette. The good news is, these stickers are readily available and affordable online through the official French government website.
The Crit’Air sticker lasts the lifetime of the vehicle, so it’s a one-off purchase. The RAC website offers an in-depth guide to everything you need to know and your requirements.
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