by Janis / 0 comments - Orginally published:27th January 2026
The “ville-rouge” of culture, charm and Toulouse-Lautrec
We are now starting to venture north through France on our two-week EV road trip, heading to the stunning UNESCO Episcopal City of Albi. Albi is celebrated for its beautiful red-brick architecture and its famous son, Toulouse-Lautrec.
During our EV French road trip, we kept to the back roads of France as much as possible. After rolling off Le Shuttle at Calais, we visited the delightful medieval towns of Provins in Île-de-France and Semur-en-Auxois in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté. We explored Sisteron, located in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, then visited Antibes and Sète on the Mediterranean coast, and also took in a little detour to the walled city of Aigues-Mortes.
While in the South of France, we squeezed in a stay at one of our favourite places in Provence, Saint-Remy-de-Provence. From here, we headed off on a mini road trip to experience seven more Provence towns and villages.
Why not Pin it for later?
We’re staying in Albi for two delightful evenings, and then we hit the road again, heading further north to Bergerac, Poitiers, and Le Mans.
Did you catch our inspiration for this French road trip?
Where is Albi?
How to get to Albi
- By Car
Departing from the UK to France, there are various options. You can either jump on Le Shuttle and arrive in Calais in 35 minutes or enjoy a leisurely cruise on the open waves with Brittany Ferries, DFDS or P&O.
- By Air
If you’re flying into France, search for your flights within your preferred travel search engine for your favoured routes and chosen dates. Pre-book your hire car from Rental Cars, and your adventure begins.
Stay informed
You will find us across many forms of social media. You will find our latest posts, some throwbacks, links to historic events with our 'On this day' posts, across Facebook, X, Bluesky & Threads. Each week, themed visual content on Instagram, and our narrated travels on YouTube. Collections of the images in our posts are also collated into boards on Pinterest.
Brief history of Albi
From the Bronze Age to the “ville rouge”The striking red-brick city of Albi in Occitania is nestled along the banks of the Tarn River and offers an incredible view of the city from the north side of the river across the Old Bridge – Pont Vieux.
Albi’s history stretches back to ancient times, with Bronze Age settlements, and later became a Roman town known as Albiga under Roman rule.
Pont Vieux
In the Middle Ages, Albi developed into an important medieval centre. Albi became associated with the Cathar (Albigensian) movement, a Christian sect that challenged the authority of the Catholic Church in the 12th & 13th centuries. The subsequent Albigensian Crusade, launched by the Pope and the French crown, reshaped the region and brought Albi under tighter Catholic control.
Rue Caminade, Albi
Albi Cathedral belltower
After the brutal conflict, the Bishops of Albi embarked upon ambitious building projects. The most iconic the imposing Sainte-Cécile Cathedral. Construction began on the vast brick Gothic fortress-church in the late 13th century intended, to symbolise ecclesiastical authority.
Nearby is the Palais de la Berbie, an attractive building that was erected as a fortified bishop’s palace; it is now home to the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum.
Place Savene
During the Middle Ages, Albi once again prospered through trade and the dyeing of materials using woad. Evidence of the old town’s historic development can be seen in its ancient lanes and beautiful half-timbered houses.
The city’s classic red-brick architecture, evident in its bridges and houses, is derived from abundant local clay and gives Albi its distinctive “ville rouge” (Red City) character.
Where to stay in Albi
Hostellerie Du Grand Saint Antoine
The Hostellerie Du Grand Saint Antoine is a lovely, comfortable hotel in the centre of Albi, with plenty of free parking, making it an ideal choice for road trips. Chargeable EV facilities are available on-site.
Discovering the Castelviel quarter
The historic cradle of AlbiThe red-brick city of Albi is an absolute joy to visit, it’s full of fascinating history, exquisite architecture and laid-back charm. We’ve visited France on numerous occasions and researched many places; however, it astounds me that such a beautiful city as Albi in Occitania has slipped beneath our radar. It was only when we watched the Tour de France a few years ago that we spotted it immediately and added it to our wish list.
Rue Savene, Albi
Picturesque lanes in Albi
We love exploring new cities, and there is plenty to see in Albi. One little district that we loved was the Castelviel quarter, one of the oldest districts in the UNESCO city. The cobbled streets here are lined with timber-framed red brick buildings, with overhanging frontages and multi-coloured wooden window shutters. It is so picturesque.
Street art in Albi
The name Castelviel literally means “old castle,” a reference to the fortified settlement that once stood here long before the current city developed. It is acknowledged as the cradle of Albi’s urban history. A little peek at Place Savene is essential; this pretty square is like a tiny village of its own.
Rue du Castelviel
Castelviel quarter
Around Castelviel is a maze of gorgeous, narrow medieval lanes, with window ledges overflowing with blooms and terracotta plant pots tussling shoulder to shoulder for space. Here, are some stunning pieces of street art, a serene water feature, and the eye-catching #Albi city sign.
France Tourist Information
If you’re tempted to tour France and discover all the delightful things it has to offer, take a peek at the official French Tourism website. The local tourist offices dotted around towns and cities provide some extremely useful information and handy pointers for around each region.
Exploring Sainte-Cécile Cathedral
The largest brick cathedral in the worldThe magnificent Sainte-Cécile Cathedral, in Albi, is one of the most striking cathedrals in France. It is instantly distinguishable by its vast brick exterior that feels more like a fortress than a place of worship.
Sainte-Cécile Cathedral
Baldaquin of the South Portal
The exquisite russet-coloured cathedral took over 200 years to erect and was built between 1282 and 1493. The Cathedral was designed as a bold statement of Catholic power following the Albigensian Crusade, as I mentioned above. It was created using locally made red bricks rather than stone. Its sheer scale, minimal exterior decoration, and soaring bell tower dominate Albi’s skyline and can be seen from miles around.
The intricate & ornate ceiling
As you step inside, however, the atmosphere changes completely. The interior is richly decorated with vivid Renaissance frescoes and an extraordinary painted ceiling. Just below the Great Organ is one of the oldest and largest painted Last Judgement scenes in Europe.
Great Organ & the scene of the Last Judgement
The Bell Tower
The intricate stone rood screen separating the choir from the nave is a masterpiece of Gothic craftsmanship, while the contrast between the austere exterior and the lavish interior makes Sainte-Cécile Cathedral utterly unforgettable.
Sainte-Cécile Cathedral is stunning to visit, and it’s a powerful reminder of how architecture was used not just to inspire faith, but to convey authority and resilience in medieval southern France.
I love nothing more than planning a trip through France and so often I use the DK Eyewitness books. I find them extremely informative, easy to follow and the pictures and maps tempt you into discovering more.
We used a previous version of this book to plan our French road trips, now you can grab the revised copy.
Visiting Palais de la Berbie, Albi
In search of Toulouse-LautrecThe Palais de la Berbie is one of the most striking landmarks in Albi, standing proudly beside the Tarn River and just steps from the famous red-brick Sainte-Cécile Cathedral. Built in the 13th century, it originally served as the fortified residence of the bishops of Albi, reflecting the turbulent period following the Cathar Crusades.
Palais de la Berbie
The palace’s thick defensive walls, towers, and austere exterior give it the appearance of a medieval fortress rather than a palace, designed as much for protection as for authority. Over the centuries, the Palais de la Berbie evolved from a stronghold into a refined episcopal palace, with elegant interiors and beautifully laid-out gardens overlooking the river.
Formal gardens in Palais de la Berbie
The Palais de la Berbie is one of the oldest castles in France and even predates the Palais des Papes in Avignon.
Today, this beautiful building is the home of the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec, which houses the world’s largest public collection of works by the renowned French artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, a native of Albi.
Salon in the Rue des Moulins by Toulouse-Lautrec
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec was born in Albi in 1864 and was a painter, printmaker, and illustrator best known for capturing the vibrant, often gritty nightlife of late-19th-century Paris. Despite coming from an aristocratic family, his life was marked by physical disability following childhood injuries, which profoundly shaped both his worldview and his art.
La Chaîne Simpson poster by Toulouse-Lautrec
Lautrec became closely associated with the bohemian world of Montmartre, producing iconic posters and paintings of cabarets, cafés, and performers, most famously those of the Moulin Rouge.
Strolling the historic streets of Albi
The Saint-Salvi district and beyond
The Saint-Salvi district in Albi is one of the oldest and most attractive quarters of the city’s historic centre. At its heart lies the Collegiate Saint-Salvi, a striking medieval church dedicated to Saint Salvius, reputedly the city’s first bishop.
Saint-Salvi cloister
This district grew up around the church from the 11th century onward, creating a distinctive wheel-shaped urban pattern of narrow streets which spreads out like spokes, a legacy of its early merchant trading importance in pastel.
Secret alleys by Saint-Salvi Church
Wandering through Saint-Salvi today, you’ll find a blend of architectural history and tranquil courtyards. The collegiate church itself displays a lovely mix of Romanesque and Gothic styles. Adjacent are the church’s cloisters, offering a peaceful haven in the bustling old town.
Surrounding Saint-Salvi historic quarter are elegant Renaissance touches on many buildings, from elaborately framed windows and decorative façades to sculpted details on timber-framed houses that reflect Albi’s 15th and 16th century prosperity.
Enjalbert House
Hôtel Reynès courtyard
Ensure you seek out Enjalbert House, at the corner of Rue des Pénitents and Rue Timbal. This striking Renaissance building is one of the finest examples of a half-timbered house in Old Albi.
Hôtel Reynes on Rue Timbal is a beautifully restored 16th-century Renaissance mansion in the heart of the city. Step into the courtyard to discover elegant stonework, carved details, and the refined architecture of the home of a wealthy pastel merchant.
Marché Couvert d’Albi
One place I urge you to head at lunchtime is the Marché Couvert d’Albi; it is a lively hub of local life, filled with the aromas of fresh bread, cheeses, charcuterie, and seasonal produce. Housed in a striking historic building, it’s the perfect place to sample regional Tarn specialities and soak up everyday Albi culture.
Fresh produce in Albi’s covered market
We found a fantastic bar/bistro inside to grab a traditional bite to eat, and they served delicious, fresh produce in a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. One tip is not to delay in taking a seat, as it is extremely popular.
Crit'Air vignette required for driving in France
If you’re heading to France from the UK with your own vehicle, you’ll need a Crit’Air ‘clean air’ car sticker.
Just like our low-emission zones in the UK, France now legally requires the display of a Crit’Air vignette. The good news is, these stickers are readily available and affordable online through the official French government website.
The Crit’Air sticker lasts the lifetime of the vehicle, so it’s a one-off purchase. The RAC website offers an in-depth guide to everything you need to know and your requirements.
* This post may contain links to affiliated sites where we earn a small commission at no additional charge to you.
