by Janis / 0 comments - Orginally published:21st November 2023
The beating heart of Aragon in northeast Spain
Our incredible Spanish road trip adventure started in northern Spain upon arriving by Brittany Ferries into Bilbao.
And, so it began, off to our first interim destination, a visit to the historical city of Pamplona in Navarre. After a few delightful hours in Pamplona, we ventured onto the picturesque city of Zaragoza in the Aragon province of Spain, where we were staying for a couple of nights.
Zaragoza had been on our travel list for years, so we were delighted to have finally arrived in the ancient city and keen to begin exploring Zaragoza’s historic streets.
We love touring northern Spain; we’ve previously visited León, Oviedo, Logroño, Bilbao, Santander, and Santillana de Mar. What is more, we especially like it in the north of Spain as you hear very few people speaking English. This is where our choppy Duolingo kicks in.
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During this road trip, we’re touring further south to Teruel, Murcia, Mojácar, Granada and Toledo, and upon returning north, we’re visiting Valladolid, Astorga and Burgos.
Did you catch our inspiration for this Spanish road trip?
Where is Zaragoza?
Where to stay in Zaragoza
The hotel Silken Reino de Aragón in Zaragoza is very centrally located in the heart of the Old Town. It’s just a few minutes’ walk to the Plaza de España and a short hop to the bustling tapas bars in the El Tubo de Zaragoza district.
The rooms are very comfortable and clean and perfect for a couple of nights’ stay. We chose to stroll out each morning for breakfast as we enjoy eating in local cafés.
Silken Reino de Aragón has an underground car park with access next to the hotel; a daily charge is applied.
Alternatively, pop your dates in the Booking.com search box and discover further options for all budgets.
Brief history of Zaragoza
A 2,000-year legacyZaragoza truly has a rich history, with the Roman Caesar Augusta founding the city between 25BC and 11BC, over 2,000 years ago. Zaragoza would have been an impressive sight to see during the Roman era as there would have been a forum, many Roman public buildings, thermal baths, and a theatre.
Torreon de la Zuda
The Oratory in Aljafería Palace
Some centuries later, Zaragoza was governed by Arab Muslim leaders, which meant the architecture of Zaragoza would evolve immensely. The breath-taking Mudéjar architecture can still be witnessed today. The Mudéjar design style is one of my favourites to be found in Spain. Still prominent elements of this remain in Zaragoza.
Bola del mundo in Plaza del Pilar
From December 1118, Alfonso I of Aragon conquered Zaragoza. He made it the capital of the Kingdom of Aragon, and still it remains to be its capital city today.
Zaragoza experienced tumultuous times through the 1800s, with various battles along with the Spanish coup in 1936.
The charming city of Zaragoza lies on the banks of the River Ebro and, since it was founded many centuries ago, has been named Salduie, Caesaraugusta, Saraqusta and Zaragoza.
Exploring the Plaza del Pilar
Nuestra Señora del Pilar BasilicaYou’ll be stopped in your tracks when you turn into Plaza del Pilar in Zaragoza and step into the magnificent rectangular square; it is astonishing. The plaza is enormous; you’ll even struggle to see from one end to the other.
This amazing square is surrounded by beautiful architecture on all sides; however, the building that immediately catches your eye is the spectacular Nuestra Señora del Pilar Basilica.
Cathedral-Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar
Nuestra Señora del Pilar Basilica
The current-day Roman catholic church of Nuestra Señora del Pilar Basilica was built during the 17th and 18th centuries in Baroque style. Numerous churches have been built on this sacred site over the centuries in the styles of Romanesque, Gothic, and Mudéjar.
Although I don’t imagine any of the previous churches could surpass the grandeur of the Basilica today.
We stepped inside the church, and the vastness just takes your breath away, along with the intricate alabaster high altarpiece. Unfortunately, we were unable to take photos inside of the Basilica.
Cathedral-Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar
One of the greatest places to grab the iconic shot of Cathedral-Basilica is from the Puente de Piedra, the ‘Bridge of Lions’, which spans the River Ebro. This is a beautiful place to stand while the sun sets and the Basilica is illuminated.
There are so many incredible places to discover in Spain and I love planning road trips. I often use the DK Eyewitness books, I find them extremely informative, easy to follow and the pictures and maps tempt you into searching for more.
We used a previous version of this book to plan our Spanish road trips, now you can grab the revised copy.
The evolving La Seo de Zaragoza
Discover Zaragoza’s historyEnsure you take your time ambling around Plaza del Pilar. As you stroll towards the east of the square, you’ll see the Ayuntamiento de Zaragoza, constructed in Renaissance Revival style and completed in 1965. Next to the charming city hall is the Lonja, an old currency exchange built in the Aragonese Renaissance style and now an exhibition room.
Ayuntamiento de Zaragoza
Roman Remains Museum
Just a short hop from the Lonja is the Roman Remains Museum, located beneath the Plaza de la Seo. The Roman Museum displays the archaeological remains of the Roman Forum and market from when Zaragoza was founded and named Caesaraugusta.
Caesar Augusta
We’ve now arrived at La Seo de Zaragoza, the Cathedral of the Savior, yes, another cathedral in Zaragoza; they are lucky enough to have two.
La Seo forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage for the Mudéjar Architecture of Aragon. The site that the cathedral stands on has been a sacred place of worship for centuries. Its location sits on the site of the old Roman forum where a temple would have once stood in the first century BC.
During the 1st century AD, a mosque was built on the site; however, little evidence of this remains, and in 1121, the building was consecrated as a Christian Church and converted for Christian worship.
Mudéjar exterior of La Seo de Zaragoza
La Seo de Zaragoza
In the mid-12th-century, the mosque was destroyed, and a Romanesque Cathedral was built in its place. The cathedral continued to evolve through different styles from Gothic, Mudéjar, Renaissance and Baroque. The Mudéjar exterior wall on the left of the cathedral is incredible.
Visiting La Seo de Zaragoza was amazing; there are so many chapels within the cathedral, which are extremely ornate and lavish.
I would just like to add that photography inside La Seo was strictly forbidden, and it was rigorously enforced.
A Spanish Road Trip
Discover more of historic Spain and tour its picturesque countryside in the north, or head south to explore the Sierra Nevada National Park just south of Granada.
You can do it all on a road trip; Rental Cars searches multiple well-known car hire brands and discovers the deals that suit you the best.
Admiring Plaza de Caesar Augusta
The Romans left their markI really loved the charming square of Plaza de Caesar Augusta; it’s located at the west end of Plaza del Pilar and had a little less hustle and bustle of the main square.
The Church of San Juan de los Panetes
There’s some fascinating history and wonderful architecture just within a few steps of Plaza de Caesar Augusta. One immediately noticeable landmark is the eye-catching Church of San Juan de los Panetes and its prominent tower, which sits elevated above the plaza.
Murallas Romana de Zaragoza
Adjacent to the church are the Roman Walls of Caesaraugusta, the ‘Murallas Romana de Zaragoza’. These walls would have once surrounded the city, with twelve city gates up to 120 towers, and in places, the walls were 7 metres thick.
Outside the Roman Walls of Zaragoza
Nearby the Roman ruins is a bronze statue of Caesar Augusta, which looks down along the walls and three semi-circular towers.
Visiting Aljafería Palace
A stunning fortified palaceWe’re now off to the magnificent Aljafería Palace. This remarkable Islamic fortress was built during the 11th-century as a luxury retreat for the Kings of the Taifa of Zaragoza.
The medieval Aljafería Palace is currently the seat of the Parliament of Aragon, and in 2001, it was declared a World Heritage site for its beautiful Mudéjar architecture.
Aljafería Palace
The palace is incredibly unique, with a blend of Moorish and Christian elements. It is one of only a handful of buildings in Spain with this style of architecture in such a conserved condition. Its ornate decoration and intricate craftsmanship are simply breath-taking. It is the best-preserved Islamic palace in Spain outside of Andalucía.
Arch of the portico
Entrance door to the mosque
The palace has witnessed many forms of restructuring over the past centuries, as it was particularly damaged during the Sieges of Zaragoza. The Aljafería fortification has since been used as a military fortress; however, since the mid-20th-century, the palace has been fully restored and preserved.
Santa Isabel Courtyard
If you’re visiting Zaragoza, the Aljafería Palace is a must to see; for just a few euros, you’ll treated to some Moorish splendour seen very rarely.
I was taken aback at how stunning the palace was; upon entering through the Aragonese Courtyard, we strolled into the open-air courtyard of Santa Isabel, and it was beautiful. The courtyard would have been an integral part of the palace, landscaped with citrus trees and cropped low hedges and surrounded by ornate Moorish-taifa arches.
The Moorish-Taifa north side hall
Within the north side hall of the Santa Isabel Courtyard are the royal rooms, and the Moorish architecture and marble flooring here are mind-blowing. The delicate arches that lead you through to the Golden Hall and mosque are stunning and remind me of visiting the Mosque–Cathedral in Córdoba.
Ceiling of the Grand Hall of the Palace of the Catholic Monarchs
Throughout the palace, there are stunning grand halls fit for a King. The ceilings towering above are spectacular and are so beautifully inland with fine attention to detail.
Tourist Information
If you’re planning to explore Spain, ensure you check out the Visit Spain official tourism website. It is overflowing with helpful information covering every region of this beautiful country from north, south, east, and west.
There are so many incredible places to discover in Spain and I love planning road trips. I often use the DK Guides,
I find them extremely informative, easy to follow and the pictures and maps tempt you into searching for more
Exploring Zaragoza
Strolling its historic streetsLet’s don our comfy shoes and explore the historic streets of Zaragoza. As I mentioned above Zaragoza, is overflowing with ancient history, so ensure you search out the Roman ruins dotted around the Old Town.
Zaragoza Bull Ring
While strolling back to the Old Town of Zaragoza from the Aljafería Palace, we came across Zaragoza’s bullring. I appreciate that bullfighting is a contentious subject; however, this particular bullring was pretty impressive.
The bullring is also known as ‘La Misericordia’ and is one of the largest in Spain and seats around 10,300 people. It was originally opened in 1764. Although it has been renovated and extended over time and has been built in the neo-Mudejar style.
Plaza Santo Domingo
We loved just strolling around Zaragoza, ambling along one street to another, and one of the charming squares we came across was Plaza Santo Domingo, with a delightful fountain in the centre.
The other eye-catching structure here was the Teatro del Mercado; this delightful theatre was once home to Zaragoza’s old fish market.
Have you?
Ventured on a road trip around Spain? Which regions did you explore, and do you have any unique places you would love to share with us, as there is so much more we want to discover?
Enjoying Zaragoza’s art and culture
From Goya to ‘El TuboWhen we travel through Europe, we love visiting local indoor food markets; in Spain, they are called Mercados, and the one in Zaragoza was stunning. The central market along Av. de César Augusto has an incredible selection of fresh fish, meat, fruit, and vegetables; they are such a pleasure to stroll around.
Zaragoza Central Mercado
The Zaragoza Mercado was designed in 1895 by the Aragonese architect Félix Navarro Pérez and was built using iron. The beautiful market underwent a renovation and reopened its doors in February 2020.
Statute to Francisco de Goya
There is so much to discover in Zaragoza. One of its fascinating museums is dedicated to Francisco de Goya, who was once a resident of Zaragoza. The Goya Museum not only contains works of art by Goya but other renowned artists too.
Tapas lanes in Zaragoza
‘El Tubo’ Calle de Los Estebanes
As the evening draws in, the streets and lanes around El Tubo in the old town of Zaragoza begin to come alive. This area of the city is renowned for serving Spanish tapas in several different bars. After a long day on your feet, there’s nothing better than sitting outside a bustling bar in the warm evening air, grazing on the local tapas.
We have created a little YouTube video of our time in Zaragoza. Why not take a look?
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