by Janis / 0 comments - Orginally published:1st July 2025

Admiring the magnificent Rocher de la Baume

Our incredible French road trip continues south from the delightful medieval towns of Provins in Île-de-France and Semur-en-Auxios in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté. We’re now heading to the charming town of Sisteron, located in the shadows of the breath-taking Rocher de la Baume in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur.

While driving south to Sisteron, once we’d passed Lyon, we kept to the back roads, journeying along the winding lanes and admiring the beautiful countryside as we went. Road-trippin is such a relaxing way to tour through France. It offers the opportunity to jump out at any point to explore each region further.

We are now embracing the new world of EV touring, and you can check out how we undertook our planning for this two-week EV French road trip, which began upon entering Calais from Le Shuttle in Folkestone.

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Where is Sisteron?

How to get to Sisteron

- By Car
Departing from the UK to France, there are various options. You can either jump on Le Shuttle and arrive in Calais in 35 minutes or enjoy a leisurely cruise on the open waves with DFDS or P&O.

- By air
If you’re flying into France, search for your flights in one easy place with Booking.com. This reliable travel search engine will scan for your favoured routes and chosen dates. Pre-book your hire car from Rental Cars, and your adventure begins.

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Brief history of Sisteron

Standing in ancient footsteps

The medieval town of Sisteron is situated high on the banks of the River Durance, located in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence department of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region in southeastern France.

This stunning part of France is often dubbed the “Gateway to Provence”, and you can understand why, as it snuggly in between two impressive mountain ridges.

The impressive Rocher de la Baume rock formation on the edge of Sisteron in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence region of France
Rocher de la Baume

Evidence suggests the site of Sisteron has been inhabited for at least 4,000 years. During the Roman era, Sisteron was known as Segustero, and the town served as a crucial point along the Via Domitia, the Roman road connecting Italy to Spain. Also, along this route is one of our favourite French towns, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and the Roman site of Glanum.

The imposing Citadel is perched dramatically above the town, on the opposite side of the Durance River to the Baume Rock the castle and its fortifications stand as a testament to Sisteron’s strategic importance.

The majestic Sisteron Citadel in Provence, France, stands perched atop a dramatic rocky cliff, overlooking the historic town and the Durance River flowing below a classic stone arch bridge. This iconic French landmark, with its ancient fortifications clearly visible against a bright blue sky dotted with clouds, offers a breathtaking view of hidden Provence.
Looking up to Sisteron Citadel)

Sisteron boasts a rich and often turbulent history through its centuries, including a series of devastating plagues that decimated its population during the 15th century and religious wars in the 16th century.

During the French Revolution, Sisteron remained loyal to the monarchy; consequently, when Napoléon Bonaparte marched north after his escape from Elba in 1815, Sisteron chose not to hinder his progress, allowing the future emperor to pass through. Hence, Sisteron is located along the Route Napoléon.

A scenic view of the Durance River near Sisteron in Provence, France, shows its calm waters reflecting the sky as it winds through lush, tree-covered hills under a partly cloudy blue sky. In the foreground, a stone wall and some vegetation frame the picturesque French countryside, with a glimpse of Sisteron town nestled in the distance, making it an inviting scene for those touring France.
 Durance River, by Sisteron

In World War II, Sisteron suffered a tragedy on 15th August 1944, when Allied forces attempted to destroy the bridges spanning the Durance and accidentally bombed the town. This resulted in approximately 100 fatalities and caused considerable damage to the Citadel. On 17th August, French aircraft returned and successfully destroyed the bridges.

Sisteron witnessed the finish of Stage 3 and the start of Stage 4 in the 2020 Tour de France; this epic race always offers us inspiration for our French adventures.

Where to stay in Sisteron

Hôtel de la Citadelle

The Hôtel de la Citadelle is in the perfect location of Sisteron to gain an obstructed view of the Rocher de la Baume. The historic centre of the town is just a short walk away, offering a selection of restaurants and cafés.

Chargeable parking is available in front of the hotel, along with EV charging; however, it can get quite busy.

Alternatively, pop your dates in the Booking.com search box and discover further options for all budgets.

There are so many incredible places to discover in France, so many regions, and I love planning road trips. I often use the DK Guides,

I find them extremely informative, easy to follow and the pictures and maps tempt you into searching for more

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Exploring Medieval Sisteron

Strolling the historic lanes
Sisteron is a relatively small town, with numbers swelling during the day to admire the magnificent Rocher de la Baume, and I completely understand why; it’s beautiful.
The imposing Rocher de la Baume (Baume Rock) dramatically towers over the historic town of Sisteron in Provence, France, with a classic stone arch bridge crossing the Durance River in the foreground. Colourful buildings huddle at the base of the sheer, textured cliff face, all under a bright blue sky with scattered clouds, creating an iconic French vista.
Baume Rock
So, even though we were constantly admiring the vast rock and taking photos, it was time to head across the Durance River and appreciate it from another angle. Also, you get an amazing view back across Sisteron’s medieval Old Town.
A picturesque view captures Sisteron’s medieval old town in Provence, France, with its historic buildings tightly packed along the hillside overlooking the wide, flowing Durance River. In the foreground, the stone ruins of an old structure add to the historic charm, all set against a backdrop of rolling hills and a bright blue sky with scattered white clouds, making it an iconic French travel destination.
Sisteron’s medieval Old Town
We now venture off to explore the maze of historic streets in the centre of this Provençal fortified town. The medieval narrow lanes and alleyways of Sisteron are a delight to stroll around, and they were actually very peaceful. Just ordinary folk going about their day-to-day business.
A charming view of Place de la Nière in Sisteron, Provence, France, showcases a historic stone building with a prominent archway and traditional wooden shutters, set against a backdrop of a tree-covered mountain and a brilliant blue sky with fluffy clouds. The sloping cobblestone ground, a tall, slender cypress tree, and other rustic buildings in this hidden gem contribute to the authentic French village atmosphere, perfect for a scenic road trip.
Place de la Nière
A narrow stone stairway winds up a charming lane in Sisteron, Provence, France, flanked by a historic, light-coloured stone building on one side and vibrant red flowers cascading over a rustic stone wall and fountain on the other. This picturesque hidden corner of France, with its traditional architecture and glimpse of bright blue sky, beckons exploration for those touring the region.
Charming lanes of Sisteron

We wend our way amongst a warren of pedestrian streets lined with characterful old houses and dim arched passageways that pass beneath the residents’ homes.

Steep stairways lead you from one cobbled courtyard to another, and as you reach some of the decorated, tiny squares, you are greeted with gurgling water fountains.

A picturesque, ancient stone archway frames a narrow, cobblestone alley in the historic town of Sisteron, Provence, France, inviting exploration of its hidden passages. A blue street sign reading "Impasse du Glissoir" is visible on the textured stone wall to the right, marking this charming example of secret France waiting to be discovered.
Arched lanes and alleys
It was a pleasure ambling through the medieval lanes of Sisteron, with charming homes stretching high above and the sight of the old wooden window shutters, which are so synonymous with many villages and towns in France, was lovely to see.
A charming, narrow cobblestone street, Rue du Glissoir in Sisteron, Provence, France, winds uphill between tall, historic buildings adorned with light-green shutters and festive bunting strung overhead. This picturesque French alleyway, with its textured stone walls and glimpse of blue sky, offers a quintessential view of hidden gems to discover while touring France.
Rue du Glissoir
A rustic, textured ochre wall on a medieval street in Sisteron, Provence, France, features a vibrant green wooden door adorned with charming bird silhouette carvings and a matching green shutter above, painted with "Atelier" and artistic designs. Small, decorative arrow-like tiles create a whimsical trail across the wall towards another "Atelier d'Art" sign, highlighting the artistic French charm found when exploring Sisteron.
Medieval streets in Sisteron

Another scene in France that I never tire of watching is a group of old friends enjoying the friendly rivalry of a game of boules together. I could have sat and watched the local men playing for hours.

We’ve weaved our way up from the banks of the River Durance, through the quaint lanes sprinkled with picturesque old houses and stroll into Place de L’Horloge.

France Tourist Information

If you’re tempted to tour France and discover all the delightful things it has to offer, take a peek at the official French Tourism website. The local tourist offices dotted around the towns and cities provide some extremely useful information and handy pointers for around each region.

Discovering more of Sisteron

Through its picturesque streets
Sisteron is such a pleasant town to stroll around, with many charming squares to rest in and plenty of restaurants, boutiques, and bars to explore. There’s a lovely mix of the historic sites and monuments throughout the town, interspersed with tempting shops along the lanes strewn with colourful, fluttering bunting.
A charming, narrow street in Sisteron, France is lined with colorful buildings, local shops, and festive bunting strung overhead. The vibrant scene captures the lively atmosphere of this Provençal town under a bright, partly cloudy sky.
Shopping in Sisteron
A vibrant, sun-dappled narrow street in Sisteron, Provence, France, is lined with colourful shopfronts painted in hues of orange and lime green, adorned with traditional shutters and festive bunting strung overhead. This charming French street scene, with its patterned paving stones and distant figures, invites exploration and offers a glimpse into the hidden gems of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur.
Colourful streets
Strolling through Place de L’Horloge and Place du Robert, you’ll spot the eye-catching Clock Tower with its decorative wrought-iron campanile perched at the top. Within this square, there are some lovely cafés and bars; if you enjoy a local craft beer, try ‘Le Local à Bières de Juju’.
A prominent stone clock tower with an ornate ironwork campanile and weathervane stands tall in Sisteron, France, against a backdrop of a steep, tree-covered mountainside and a bright blue sky with fluffy white clouds. Surrounding the base of the clock tower are traditional European buildings with terracotta tiled roofs and shuttered windows.
Clock Tower in Sisteron
In the heart of Sisteron, you’ll see the five surviving fortification towers dating from the 14th century, including one known as Médisance, the Backbiting Tower. These towers were part of the town's fortifications built to protect them during the Hundred Years' War.
A tall, cylindrical stone tower, identified as the Médisance Tower in Sisteron, Provence, stands prominently with arched window openings and a crenellated top against a vivid blue sky with fluffy white clouds. In the foreground, a classical white statue on a plinth is surrounded by colourful flowerbeds and green bushes, with ornate street lamps visible to the right.
The Médisance Tower
Three imposing medieval stone towers with crenellated tops stand prominently in Sisteron, Provence, France, showcasing the town's rich history and iconic architecture. Surrounded by flowering plants, classic street lamps, and glimpses of nearby buildings and distant hills, these historic French landmarks are set against a bright blue sky with fluffy white clouds.
Three towers in a row
These stunning towers are now Historical Monuments and are named the Fort Tower, the Médisance Tower, the Porte Sauve Tower, the Notre Dame Tower, and the Gens d'Armes Tower.
A Romanesque-style stone church with arched doorways and a tall bell tower stands under a bright blue sky in Sisteron, France. The Church of Notre-Dame-des-Pommiers is framed by surrounding buildings and mountain scenery in the background.
 Church of Notre-Dame-des Pommiers
Sisteron Cathedral, officially known as the Church of Notre-Dame-des-Pommiers and Saint-Thyrse, stands as a significant landmark in Sisteron. Though it’s no longer a cathedral in the ecclesiastical sense, this imposing Romanesque structure retains its historical and architectural importance.
The magnificent nave of the Church of Notre-Dame-des-Pommiers in Sisteron, Provence, France, showcases impressive stone columns supporting high, arched vaulted ceilings and leading towards a warmly illuminated altar. Rows of wooden pews fill the expansive interior, inviting contemplation of the historic Romanesque and Gothic architecture of this iconic French religious site.
The nave of Church of Notre-Dame-des Pommiers
A vibrant, arched stained glass window from Sisteron in Provence, France, glows with rich reds, blues, greens, and yellows, depicting religious figures with halos in an ornate, traditional design. The intricate details and vivid colours of this historic French artwork are sharply contrasted against a deep black background, highlighting its beauty and craftsmanship.
Stained glass window in Sisteron)
Sisteron Cathedral was constructed between 1160 and 1220 during a period of significant architectural and religious development in Provence. It originally served as the seat of the Bishop of Sisteron. The cathedral was part of a larger episcopal complex, which also included the Church of Saint-Thyrse, a baptistery and a cloister reserved for the canons.
A vibrant roundabout in Sisteron, France, features a stunning floral display with trees topped by large globes of red and pink flowers, all set against a backdrop of historic town buildings and a distant rocky mountain. The scene is captured under a bright blue sky with scattered white clouds, with a street and parked cars visible around the roundabout.
Sisteron town
We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Sisteron, and as its moniker suggests, it is a perfect “Gateway to Provence” and one I highly recommend.

Crit'Air vignette required for driving in France

If you’re heading to France from the UK with your own vehicle, you’ll need a Crit’Air ‘clean air’ car sticker.

Just like our low-emission zones in the UK, France now legally requires the display of a Crit’Air vignette. The good news is, these stickers are readily available and affordable online through the official French government website.

The Crit’Air sticker lasts the lifetime of the vehicle, so it’s a one-off purchase. The RAC website offers an in-depth guide to everything you need to know and your requirements.

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