by Janis / 0 comments - Orginally published:13th November 2017
From the Palace to the Riva…
Our 5th destination on our Croatian road trip after exploring Plitvice Lakes NP and the charming cities of Zadar, Trogir and Dubrovnik was the ancient waterfront city of Split.
Split is located on a peninsula along the Adriatic Sea, overlooking crystal-clear waters and islands beyond.
Split is Croatia’s second-largest city and a popular destination for visitors, who either relax for a couple of days or use Split as a stepping stone to embark upon their island-hopping journey.
Either way, you cannot leave this ancient city without visiting the extremely impressive Diocletian Palace and its lovely social squares.
Are you considering a Croatian adventure? Take a look at our itinerary for our Croatian road trip and discover 6 UNESCO World Heritage sites.
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Where is Split?
How to get to Split
- By Plane
There are various airports to choose from in Croatia; browse through Booking.com for departures from your local airport. Pre-book your hire car from Rental Cars, and your adventure begins.
- By Car
If you’re heading from the UK by car, jump on Le Shuttle or a Brittany Ferry and venture off to Croatia under your own steam. Check out our Road Trip checklist for handy advice.
Diocletian Grandeur in Split
A palace fit for an emperorUpon arriving in Split, you are instinctively drawn to the charming, bustling harbour front and the tree-lined promenade of the Riva. The shimmering waters of the Adriatic Sea are so welcoming it’s hard to draw yourself away.
The Tower of the Cathedral
However, you only need to wander a few steps back from the water’s edge, and there’s a wealth of ancient history to discover within the city walls. You’ll be enveloped inside the splendour of Split's historic past.
Looking up to the of Cathedral
Silver Gate to the palace
As you wend your way amongst the magnificent ruins immediately, centuries of ancient structures in a various states of preservation are all around you. It’s an incredible feeling to know you’re walking in the footsteps of Roman Emperors.
The majestic 4th century Roman Cathedral of Saint Domnius stands prominent within the ancient complex, and the grand Romanesque bell tower commands Split’s skyline.
Did you know?
That it is free of charge to wander around the ancient Diocletian Palace?
Following in Roman footsteps
From the cellars to the starsThe Roman Cathedral of Saint Domnius is stunning; however, it was the sunken Roman Peristyle in front of the Diocletian quarters that really caught our attention.
We were surrounded on three sides by imposing stone pillars and arches; you would be forgiven for thinking that you were in the heart of Italy. It is quite a lot to take in. We just stand there looking above and around us in awe, that something so magnificent has survived the test of time.
The Roman Peristyle
What was so incredible is that it is free to visit the UNESCO Diocletian Palace in Split. You can wander between the grand pillars until your heart’s content, strolling in amongst the ruins, you can take it all at your own pace.
Climb the few steps up at the far end of the sunken peristyle and meander through to the ancient vestibule.
The vestibule is another remarkable insight into Roman architecture. Let your eyes guide you skywards, and you’ll see the sun peering down upon you. When you return of an evening it’ll be the night-time stars.
The circular ceiling of the vestibule would have once been encased in a dome.
View up to the skies
Ensure you step back down into the peristyle, as you’ll want to head further underground to the vaults below. You’re now entering the cellars of the Diocletian Palace.
These huge, pillared stone vaults would have been used to store food for the palace and the Emperor’s many banquets.
The cellars of the palace
Today, you can wander through and admire the incredible ingenuity of the Romans.
And if you wish, pick up a souvenir along the way.
Did you know?
That the Historical Complex of Split with the Palace of Diocletian has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1979.
The towering Gregory of Nin
Complete with shiny toesAfter exploring the Diocletian Palace, we briefly strolled out of the north end of the palace walls through the grand Golden Gate. As we wandered through, we were immediately greeted by the huge and imposing statue of Gregory of Nin, towering 28feet (8.5 metres) above us.
Golden gate photo
The Bishop of Nin lived during the 10th century and was the first bishop to hold services in the old Croatian language. Gregory of Nin strongly opposed the pope and controversially continued to perform religious services in Croatian; prior to this, all services had been held in Latin.
The Bishop of Nin
This vast statue in Split is very popular with visitors, as it is believed that by rubbing the Bishop of Nin’s now shiny toe is said to bring good luck.
If you've yet to discover the delights of Croatia you're in for a treat. While planning our road trip, I used the DK Eyewitness books. I find them extremely informative, easy to follow and the pictures and maps tempt you into discovering more.
We used a previous version of this book to plan our north to south Croatian road trip, now you can grab the revised copy.
Exploring Split’s historic streets
A maze of narrow lanesAs we stroll further around the Old Town of Split, we wend our way slightly beyond the passageways and corridors of the Diocletian palace. We enter into a maze of narrow, cobbled-stoned streets and walk in the footsteps of history.
These charming lanes shed even more light into Split’s ancient past.
The lanes after dusk
The narrow lanes of Split
What Gary and I particularly enjoyed about Split were the welcoming public squares and piazzas. The stunning architecture dotted all around offered an incredible mix of styles and lovely places to sit and watch the world go by.
The People’s Square
Where we stayed in Split
Hotel Corner
Our accommodation for the one night we were in Split, was at Hotel Corner, a fairly comfortable hotel with very friendly staff.
Located north of the Old Town and about a 10-minute walk from the northern edge of the city walls.
The main reason we chose this hotel was for the car parking & there was plenty of it, even for a larger car.
Discover People’s Square
Give your feet a restMeandering further through Old Town Split, we arrive at People’s Square or Narodni trg. This beautiful square was full of lively cafés and restaurants and was home to some stunning pieces of architecture.
The buildings that particularly caught my attention were remarkable examples of Baroque and Renaissance styling with ornate balconies.
The Old Town Hall
Particularly impressive in People’s Square is the 15th century Town Hall, which takes pride of place. However, one of the oldest buildings in the square is the Renaissance 24-hour clock tower (sundial).
The sundial clock
The oldest bookshop Morpurgo
This bustling square has some delightful shops, although there is one little store that may never reopen. The quaint, old bookshop in People’s Square named Morpurgo.
Morpurgo was established in 1860 and is considered to be one of the oldest bookshops in the world.
Unfortunately, this little bit of cultural history could be lost forever as it closed its doors in the last few months.
Exploring more of Split’s piazzas
The Venetian influenceWhen it comes to piazzas, Split has something for everyone. One of my favourite squares which we stumbled upon and steeped in so much history, is Fruit Square or Trg Brace Radic.
This delightful piazza is nicknamed Fruit Square, as historically, people from surrounding villages came here to sell their wares.
The Venetian Tower
The Venetian Tower after the sun has gone down
Within Fruit Square is one of Split’s oldest fortifications. The octagonal Venetian tower that stands so prominent was built in 1435 and remarkably served as a watch tower for over three centuries.
Although Fruit Square is bustling with cafes & restaurants, you won’t fail to miss the statue of Croatia’s famous 15th-century poet Marko Marulic.
Marko Marulicin the Fruit Square
The next square we saunter into is Republic Square (Trg Republike), which is along the far end of the Riva. This grand, colourful square, with its numerous colonnades surrounding it, is reminiscent of St Mark’s Square in Venice.
You can undoubtedly see the influences that remain in Split, as it was once a Venetian city.
Republic Square
Republic Square is embraced by neo-Renaissance buildings on three sides. At the far end of the square, there is a magnificent view across the Split waterfront of the south side. This a wonderful place to sit and admire the stunning vista beyond.
Visiting Croatia
For further advice on visiting Croatia, head to the official tourism website Croatia – Full of Life.
Promenading Split’s Riva
Across the Adriatic SeaI don’t know about you, but a trip to Split wouldn’t be complete without a leisurely promenade along the picturesque Riva.
Strolling along the Riva
As the sun begins to set, Riva is bustling with locals and visitors alike. The pedestrian boulevard is lined with swaying palm trees and vibrant flower beds. Families and friends enjoy this social area and soak up the attractive view across the harbour.
A view of the harbour at dusk
Let’s just sit back and relax, grab an ice-cold beer or two and watch the world pass by. Rest your weary feet and admire the boat excursions coming and going across the Adriatic Sea.
The Riva at night
Our video of Split
We have created a little YouTube video of Split. Why not take a look?
Also, why not subscribe to our YouTube channel and get the latest clips as we post them?
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