by Janis / 0 comments - Orginally published:27th November 2017

And not only an amphitheatre

While Gary and I were staying in the historic city of Rovinj, along the Adriatic Sea coastline in Croatia, we decided to explore a little further afield. Keeping within the region of Istria, we ventured off to the southern tip of the Istrian peninsula to visit the ancient city of Pula.

Pula is around 25 miles (40km) south of Rovinj, so it is pretty close. Even though we had been touring Croatia on a road trip for a couple of weeks, it was great just to embark on a short hop and explore a new location.

Our Croatian road trip has so far included a stay at the Plitvice Lakes NP, then onto the delightful cities of Zadar, Trogir, Dubrovnik, Split and Rovinj.

Are you considering a Croatian adventure? Take a look at our itinerary for our Croatian road trip and discover 6 UNESCO World Heritage sites.

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Where is Pula?

How to get to Pula

- By Plane
There are various airports to choose from in Croatia; browse through Booking.com for departures from your local airport. Pre-book your hire car from Rental Cars, and your adventure begins.

- By Car
If you’re heading from the UK by car, jump on Le Shuttle or a Brittany Ferry and venture off to Croatia under your own steam. Check out our Road Trip checklist for handy advice.

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Pula Roman Amphitheatre

How has it survived?
One of the main reasons Gary and I wanted to visit the historic city of Pula was to see the 1st century Roman Amphitheatre. We love history, and as Pula’s Arena is one of the sixth-largest surviving Roman Amphitheatre in the world, it was a must for us to visit.
A view of the Pula Arena in Croatia, framed through an ancient stone archway. The arena's exterior walls, with their distinctive arched openings, are visible in the background. Seating is arranged inside the arena, and people can be seen exploring the site. The sky is overcast.
Looking through the Amphitheatre
The magnificent arena, which, after many centuries, still retains its entire circle of walls, has 72 arches on each of the first two floors and 64 rectangular windows on its third floor. During its heyday, the amphitheatre held 23,000 spectators.
A low-angle shot of the Pula Arena in Croatia, showing the ancient stone walls with their arched openings. The arena's exterior is made of light-colored stone and features decorative elements. A tall evergreen tree stands to the left of the frame. The sky is cloudy.
The main gate at the amphitheatre
After visiting the incredible Pula Arena, I was surprised that this extraordinary monument wasn’t a UNESCO World Heritage site. The arena was built between 27 BC and AD 68, a considerable amount of the original structure still remains.
The exterior walls of the ruins of the roman amphitheatre in pula, croatia
The amphitheatre at Pula
Pula Arena is still used today and regularly holds theatre productions, festivals, and concerts.

If you've yet to discover the delights of Croatia you're in for a treat. While planning our road trip, I used the DK Eyewitness books.  I find them extremely informative, easy to follow and the pictures and maps tempt you into discovering more.

We used a previous version of this book to plan our north to south Croatian road trip, now you can grab the revised copy.

Rovinj’s historic gates

A Roman legacy
During the period that the Romans occupied Pula, they undoubtedly left their mark on the historic city. Pula was once fortified, and a defensive wall encircled the town. Moreover, a few of the remaining 10 ancient city gates can still be found around Pula.
A wide shot of the Arch of the Sergii in Pula, Croatia, shows the ancient stone archway with its weathered columns and decorative elements. The archway is made of light-colored stone and features a single arched opening. People are gathered around the base of the arch, and a stone fountain is visible in the foreground. Buildings line the square, and the sky is cloudy.
The Arch of the Sergii
A low-angle shot of the ancient Roman Arch of the Sergii in Pula, Croatia, shows the stone archway with its weathered columns and decorative elements. The archway is made of light-colored stone and features two arched openings. The ground is paved with cobblestones, and a street is visible in the foreground. Trees and a building are visible in the background.
The Twin Gate

The most renowned of the magnificent arches is the Triumphal Arch of the Sergii. This early arch was originally a city gate built between 29 and 27 BC and now commemorates the Sergii family.

Other gates to be found in Pula are the Twin Gate (Porta Gemina), which dates from the mid-2nd century, and the Hercules Gate, which dates from the 1st century.

Discover Mr. James Joyce

Once a local resident of Pula
Pula is an eclectic mix of people and cultures; evidence of this can be seen and experienced around its charming streets.
A bronze statue of James Joyce is seated at a table outside a building in Pula, Croatia. The statue is wearing a hat and holding a cane, and a plaque on the wall identifies him as an Irish writer. People are walking in the background, and a small potted plant is visible next to the statue.
The statue of James Joyce
Take a wander through the Arch of the Sergii and along the bustling pedestrian lanes. As you amble along, you’ll spot the tactile bronze statue of James Joyce sitting outside a café. The Irish writer lived in Pula for a few months and taught English to Austro-Hungarian naval officers.

Exploring Pula Forum

Temple of Augustus

As you continue to stroll through the fascinating lanes of Pula, you’ll discover the enchanting Forum. This beautiful square is a lovely place to enjoy a refreshment and sit and watch the world go by. If only the weather were on our side.

The Augustan Forum, which is located close to the sea, was built during the 1st century BC and would have been surrounded by Roman temples.

A wide shot of a public square in Pula, Croatia, features two historic buildings with arched openings and classical architectural details. People are walking in the square, and outdoor seating is set up under white umbrellas. The ground is paved with square tiles, and the sky is partly cloudy.
The Forum

Today, the Augustan Forum is still encircled by some magnificent buildings; the most eye-catching of them all is the remarkable 1st-century Temple of Augustus.

This beautifully preserved temple was dedicated to the Roman Emperor Augustus and would have been erected during his lifetime between 27 BC and AD 14. It is quite a focal point for the forum.

A wide shot of the Temple of Augustus in Pula, Croatia, shows the ancient Roman structure with its columns and triangular pediment. The temple is made of light-colored stone and features a series of steps leading up to its entrance. A building with windows is visible to the right, and the sky is overcast.
The ancient Temple of Augustus
A low-angle shot of the Temple of Augustus in Pula, Croatia, shows the ancient Roman structure with its columns and triangular pediment. The temple is made of light-colored stone and features a series of steps leading up to its entrance. The sky is partly cloudy.
The Temple of Augustus
Next to the Temple of Augustus is the Communal Palace of Pula the City Hall. This elegant building was originally constructed during the 13th-century from Roman materials.
A wide shot of a historic stone building in Pula, Croatia, features a facade with arched openings and a row of colorful flags hanging in the center. The building is made of light-colored stone and has a classical architectural style. Steps lead up to the building's entrance, and the sky is partly cloudy.
Communal Palace of Pula
Over time, the Palace has seen many iterations. However, it is still central to Forum Square, with its splendid colonnade and arches. A rear section of the Palace was from the Temple of Juno.

Visiting Croatia

For further advice on visiting Croatia, head to the official tourism website Croatia – Full of Life.

Visiting Pula Cathedral

Charming Renaissance façade
Heading a little further along the lanes from the Forum is Pula Cathedral, sitting quite unassuming in the city bay by the harbour. The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary is a co-cathedral with Euphrasian Basilica in Poreč.
A wide shot of Pula Cathedral in Croatia shows the church's facade and bell tower against a cloudy sky. The church is built with light-colored stone and features a simple design with a central entrance and arched windows. The bell tower, taller and more ornate, stands to the left of the church. People are gathered in front of the church, holding umbrellas. The ground is paved with stone tiles.
Pula Cathedral

In front of Pula Cathedral sits a freestanding Baroque-style Bell Tower. It was constructed during the late 17th century using stone blocks from Pula’s Roman Amphitheater.

The Forum and the cathedral suffered during the bombings of WWII. However, repairs were carried out soon after, in 1947, to preserve Pula’s history.

Pula Citadel

A Venetian fortress
The next stop is Pula’s Citadel, which is a little walk uphill. The star-shaped castle sits above the Old Town and looks down upon Pula Cathedral. The Venetian fortress, with its four bastions, was built during the 17th century to protect the city and its harbour.
A wide shot of Pula Castle in Croatia shows the historic stone walls and a round tower with windows. The castle walls are made of weathered stone and feature an arched entrance with a dark doorway. A paved path leads towards the entrance, and a metal fence runs along the top of the wall. Trees are visible in the background, and the sky is overcast.
The Citadel
Today, the citadel houses the Historical and Maritime Museum of Istria. From this elevated vantage point, you are able to see across Pula’s historic rooftops and over the ancient amphitheatre.
A close-up shot of a row of weathered, rusty cannons lined up in a park in Pula, Croatia. The cannons are made of metal and show signs of age and wear. They are positioned horizontally, with their barrels pointing to the right. The background includes a paved path, green grass, and trees. The sky is blue with light clouds.
The cannons
Our lovely trip to Pula was all too brief. It felt like there was so much more for us to discover. However, time waits for no man, and we are off to Poreč, which is north of Rovinj.

Where we stayed in nearby Rovinj

Apartments Martina City Centre

Our accommodation for the two nights we were in Rovinj was at the “Apartments Martina City Centre”.

The apartment was very spacious, and the location was extremely central and just a short stroll to the harbour and Old Town. The owners were unbelievably helpful and friendly and couldn't do enough for us.

One of the main reasons we chose this apartment was for the private parking, which was fantastic. We have a larger car, and once in the gate, there is plenty of room to manoeuvre.


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