by Janis / 0 comments - Orginally published:11th December 2017

You can’t help but love it…

It may seem mad to some, but our Croatian road trip started from our doorstep in the UK, and our first stop was Obernai, some 470 miles away (that's 755km).  If that seems a little far in one stint, then there are the cities of Metz and Nancy in the former historic region of Lorraine (of the quiche fame), now part of the larger Grand Est region.  Alternatively, there is the Champagne city of Reims.

One of the adventures for Gary and me on a road trip is discovering places along the way and enjoying the local regions & their differences.

We had been to the Alsace region before, in 2008 for the Christmas Markets of Strasbourg, and again for a road trip in 2012; however, Obernai was a new stopover.  So the food and drink of the region would be familiar (If we didn't see a tarte flambee, we would be mortified), however, there would be plenty more for us to discover.

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Where is Obernai?

How to get to Obernai

- By Car
Obernai is around 6 hours and under 400 miles from Calais, or 5 hours and just over 300 miles. However, if you're flying in, Strasbourg is the closest, and Obernai is just 15 miles, or around 20 minutes away.

- By Train
Obernai is 30 minutes from Strasbourg, and 2 hours 34 minutes from Paris (via Strasbourg).

- By Air
Your nearest international airport is Strasbourg (IATA: SXB, ICAO: LFST) .

A stopover in the Alsace region of France

Returning again
So, when planning our Croatian road trip, having the first stop in Alsace, a region we had visited before and had great memories of, made perfect sense.
Half-timbered houses surround Place du Marché in Obernai, creating a colourful and lively town square. Flower-filled balconies and cafés make this a highlight of any Alsace city break.
Surrounding the Place du Marché
Lovely countryside, good wine and tarte flambée, and as we are so close to the German border, there is a hint of Deutschland. The drive would be long, but we would arrive in time to explore Obernai and enjoy the evening in the town.
A quiet cobbled lane in Obernai lined with beautifully preserved half-timbered houses showcases the town’s medieval Alsace architecture. This charming street scene highlights why Obernai is a must-visit destination on an Alsace walking tour.
Intriguing lanes of Obernai
Close-up view of a traditional half-timbered house in Obernai, showcasing medieval Alsatian architecture and decorative wooden beams. These historic façades reflect the town’s rich heritage and well-preserved old streets.
Half-Timbered History throughout Obernai
Having visited Strasbourg before, and toured the region in 2012, we decided to take to the colourful streets of Obernai, and what a fantastic choice it was.

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Obernai – A Warm Welcome in the Heart of Alsace

A proud town
Obernai has an instantly welcoming feel, and from the moment we strolled into this picturesque Alsatian town, we couldn’t help but smile. There’s something effortlessly charming about the place — a sense that life here moves at a gentler pace, inviting you to slow down and simply enjoy your surroundings.
Brightly painted half-timbered houses line the streets of Obernai, showcasing the town’s distinctive Alsace architecture under a vivid blue sky. These traditional façades highlight why Obernai is a must-visit destination on an Alsace road trip.
Glorious Colours

One beautifully preserved half-timbered house follows another, each seemingly competing to outdo its neighbour with vibrant floral displays spilling from window boxes and balconies. Geraniums cascade in rich reds and pinks, softening the pastel façades and adding bursts of colour to every street. It’s the sort of place where you instinctively raise your camera every few steps — postcard-perfect from every angle.

We arrived in Obernai in the mid-afternoon, just as the town was settling into its relaxed rhythm. With daylight still on our side, we headed straight into the old town to explore. Cobbled streets twisted gently between historic buildings, leading us past quiet squares, ancient fountains, and inviting cafés where locals lingered over coffee and wine.

Obernai’s Hôtel de Ville stands proudly with ornate stonework, flower-filled balconies, and flags fluttering above the façade. This historic building is a key landmark in the town centre and a symbol of Alsace heritage.
The Hotel du Ville
This ancient little town felt like it was waiting to be discovered — not demanding attention, but rewarding curiosity. Every turn revealed another detail: carved wooden beams, painted shutters, or a glimpse of history layered into the walls. Obernai doesn’t overwhelm; instead, it gently draws you in, making exploration feel unhurried and wonderfully immersive.

If like us, you love visiting different regions of France then this Michelin guide will definitely assist in your planning.

We used a previous version of this book to plan our eastern France road trips, now you can grab the revised copy.

The starting point for a walking tour of Obernai

Place du Marché – The Heart of Obernai’s Old Town
And where better to begin exploring Obernai than at the very heart of its Old Town, Place du Marché. This charming square feels like the town’s natural gathering point, encircled by some of Obernai’s finest half-timbered buildings, their pastel façades and exposed wooden beams telling centuries-old stories. It’s a wonderfully photogenic spot, alive with cafés, quiet conversations, and the gentle hum of daily life.
The former Corn Exchange in Obernai stands out with its steep gabled roof and flower-filled balcony in the old town. Once central to trade, this historic building is now a key landmark on an Obernai walking tour.
The Corn Exhange

Standing in the square, it’s easy to imagine how this space has served as a focal point for trade and community life for hundreds of years. The buildings seem to lean inwards, creating a cosy, enclosed feel, while floral displays soften the architecture and add bursts of colour through the warmer months.

At one end of the square stands the Corn Exchange (La Halle aux Blés), an especially striking building that dates back to 1554. Originally constructed as a butcher’s shop and trading hall, it once played a vital role in Obernai’s commercial life. Look closely and you’ll spot the carved cattle heads projecting from the façade — a reminder of its original purpose and a wonderfully quirky detail that hints at the town’s medieval past.

The historic Corn Exchange in Obernai, now a restaurant, is decorated with vibrant flower boxes beneath its timbered façade. This beautifully preserved building shows how Obernai blends medieval history with modern Alsatian culture.
The Corn Exchange - now a restaurant
Today, the Corn Exchange has been beautifully repurposed as a welcoming restaurant, where locals and visitors alike can dine beneath centuries-old beams. It’s a perfect example of how Obernai seamlessly blends history with modern life, preserving its architectural heritage while keeping the town vibrant and lived-in.

France Tourist Information

If you’re tempted to tour France and discover all the wonderful things it has to offer, take a peek at the official French Tourism website. The local tourist offices dotted around the towns and cities provide some extremely useful information and handy pointers for around each region.

Place du Marché – Civic Pride and Medieval Landmarks

A feast for the eyes
Renaissance architecture that immediately draws the eye. This handsome civic building once served as Obernai’s court of justice, reinforcing the square’s long-standing role as the administrative and social heart of the town. Its ornate façade, decorative stonework, and tall windows reflect the prosperity and confidence of Obernai during its later development.
The Hôtel de Ville in Obernai, featuring ornate stonework, flower-filled balconies, and surrounding half-timbered houses. This historic town hall sits at the heart of Obernai’s old town and civic life.
The Hotel du Ville
What makes this corner of the square especially delightful is the harmony of colour and care on display. Every surrounding building appears immaculately maintained, their pastel tones, shuttered windows, and timber frames creating a vibrant yet cohesive streetscape. It’s one of those places where you naturally pause—either to admire the architecture or simply to soak up the atmosphere.
The Belfry of Obernai rising above the surrounding buildings, a prominent landmark in the town’s historic centre. This medieval tower is one of Obernai’s most recognisable architectural features.
The Belfy
Standing proudly beside the Hôtel de Ville is one of Obernai’s most recognisable landmarks: the Belfry. Rising to an impressive 60 metres, this commanding tower dominates the skyline and serves as a constant point of orientation as you wander the town.
A classic vintage car parked on a cobbled street in Obernai, framed by traditional Alsatian buildings and vibrant window boxes. The image blends historic architecture with nostalgic French motoring charm.
Historic Fance
The Belfry is all that remains of the Virgin’s Chapel, originally built at the end of the 13th century. While the chapel itself has long since disappeared, the tower endures as a powerful reminder of Obernai’s medieval past. Its height and prominence speak to both religious importance and defensive awareness, and it continues to watch over the town much as it has done for centuries.
Street view in Obernai with half-timbered houses leading towards the Belfry in the distance. The composition highlights the town’s medieval layout and traditional Alsatian streetscape.
The Belfy in the distance
Together, the Hôtel de Ville and the Belfry perfectly encapsulate Obernai’s layered history—where medieval faith, civic authority, and modern life coexist within one beautifully preserved square.

Fountains, Faith and Civic Life in Obernai

Discover more of the historic town
Just outside the Hôtel de Ville stands St. Odile’s Fountain, a quietly significant landmark dedicated to Saint Odile, the Patron Saint of Alsace. Odile, the daughter of the Duke of Alsace, was born here in Obernai, and her life story is deeply woven into the region’s identity. Revered for her faith and compassion, she later became the spiritual figurehead of Alsace, and her legacy is still felt throughout the region today.
St Odile’s Fountain in Obernai is adorned with cascading red flowers and surrounded by colourful historic buildings. This decorative landmark is a popular stop when exploring Obernai’s old town and Alsace heritage.
St Odiles Fountain
The fountain itself is both decorative and symbolic, marking the town’s pride in its most famous daughter. Positioned close to the Town Hall, it forms a natural pause point for visitors—some stopping to admire the stonework, others simply enjoying the gentle sound of running water amid the bustle of the Old Town.
A stone fountain in the town square in Obernai, in the Alsace region of France, lined on all sides by historic half-timbered buildings of the region
St Odiles Fountain in the Place du Marche
As if one historic water feature weren’t enough, Obernai also boasts the wonderfully distinctive Six Buckets Well (Puits à Six Seaux). True to its name, the well features six buckets, an unusual and eye-catching design that immediately sparks curiosity. Built in 1579, this elegant structure is a fine example of Renaissance-style architecture, combining practicality with ornate civic pride.
The Six Buckets Well is pictured with the Church of Saints Peter and Paul rising in the background. This classic Obernai view perfectly captures the town’s blend of religious heritage and historic architecture.
Six Buckets Well and the Church of Saints Peter and Paul
With its sculpted stonework and distinctive form, the Six Buckets Well is impossible to ignore. Once an essential part of daily life in the town, it now stands as a striking reminder of Obernai’s prosperity and attention to detail during the Renaissance period. Like so much of the Old Town, it effortlessly draws you in—another small but fascinating chapter in Obernai’s long and beautifully preserved history.
The Six Buckets Well in Obernai features carved stonework and hanging wooden buckets filled with flowers. This unique medieval well is one of Obernai’s most distinctive historic attractions.
Six Buckets Well
A closer view of the Six Buckets Well reveals its ornate stone canopy and decorative details. This iconic Obernai landmark reflects the craftsmanship and daily life of medieval Alsace.
Count the buckets in the Six Buckets Well

Discovering more of Obernai

Churches, Walls and Medieval Defences
Just beyond the historic well stands the Church of St Peter and St Paul, built a stone’s throw outside the original city fortifications. Its position alone hints at Obernai’s layered past, where religious life and defensive necessity shaped the town’s layout. The church’s substantial stone structure and elegant proportions make it a striking presence, marking the transition from the tightly packed Old Town into its outer edges.
Statue in front of the Church of Saints Peter and Paul in Obernai, with twin spires rising against the sky. The church is one of the town’s most important religious and architectural landmarks.
The Church of Saints Peter and Paul
At its height, Obernai was a strongly fortified town, protected by an impressive double ring of defensive walls. These fortifications once stretched around the entire settlement and were reinforced by around twenty towers and four main gates, designed to control access and defend against attack. Such extensive defences reflected Obernai’s importance and prosperity during the medieval period, when security was vital for survival.
The Tour d’enceinte in Obernai, a round medieval defensive tower set among landscaped gardens. This historic structure forms part of the town’s remaining fortifications.
The Tour d'Enceinte
View of Obernai’s old ramparts and stone tower, surrounded by flowers and greenery in the historic centre. These medieval defences reveal the town’s fortified past and long-standing heritage.
The old ramparts
Although much of the wall system has been lost to time, several of the defensive towers still survive, standing as tangible reminders of the town’s strategic past. Even better, long sections of the former ramparts have been transformed into a scenic walkway, allowing visitors to stroll where guards once patrolled. Today, this peaceful route offers elevated views over rooftops, gardens, and vineyards beyond—an enjoyable and reflective way to experience Obernai’s history woven seamlessly into modern life.

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A Bird’s-Eye View of Obernai from the Vineyards

Timeless Views

For a true bird’s-eye view of the town, it’s well worth venturing up to the National Monument that overlooks Obernai. The gentle climb away from the Old Town quickly rewards you with a change in perspective, as rooftops give way to rolling vineyards and wide-open views across the Alsatian plain.

From here within the vineyards you get a fantastic aerial outlook, and you can almost see how the city walls would have encased the town.

A panoramic view looks out over the rooftops of Obernai, revealing rows of terracotta tiles set against vineyards and open countryside. This viewpoint shows the town’s picturesque setting within the Alsace region of eastern France.
Obernai from the viewpoint
From this elevated vantage point, surrounded by neat rows of vines, you’re treated to a spectacular panoramic outlook over Obernai and the surrounding countryside. It’s here that the town’s medieval layout becomes clear. From above, you can almost trace the line of the former fortifications, imagining how the double walls and towers once wrapped tightly around the settlement below, defining and protecting it.
Panoramic view over the vineyards of Obernai, with rows of vines overlooking the town and the Vosges Mountains in Alsace, France. This scenic landscape highlights Obernai’s position on the Alsace Wine Route and its surrounding countryside.
The vineyards of Obernai
The view is particularly striking in good light, when the half-timbered houses glow softly and the patchwork of vineyards stretches towards the horizon. It’s a peaceful spot to pause, reflect, and appreciate how Obernai has grown beyond its walls while still preserving the character that makes it so special.

Discover more of France

Discover even more of Alsace by taking a road trip like we did, where charming villages, vineyard routes, and scenic viewpoints are all easily within reach.

Rental Cars searches multiple well-known car hire brands to find the best-value deals, helping you choose the option that suits your journey perfectly.

Wandering the Streets and Squares of Obernai

Go Exploring

One of the true joys of exploring Obernai is that there’s no right or wrong route to take. Almost every street reveals something charming — an ornate doorway, a burst of colour from flower-filled window boxes, or a perfectly framed half-timbered façade. It’s the kind of town where wandering aimlessly feels not only acceptable, but encouraged.
(Place de l’Etoile 1 or 2 photos)

The illuminated carousel at Place de l’Étoile brings colour and movement to Obernai’s historic centre. Set among medieval buildings, it highlights the town’s family-friendly appeal and fairytale charm.
The carousel at Place de l Etoile
That said, one place you shouldn’t miss is Place de l’Étoile, also known as Star Place. This lovely square takes its name from a former inn that once stood here, and today it remains one of Obernai’s most picturesque corners. The space is framed by beautifully preserved half-timbered buildings, their painted beams and pastel tones creating a wonderfully intimate setting.
A traditional carousel spins in Place de l’Étoile, surrounded by half-timbered houses and lively cafés in Obernai. The scene adds a playful atmosphere to this central square in one of Alsace’s most charming towns.
Place de l Etoile
At the centre of the square sits the old carousel, adding a touch of nostalgia and gentle movement to the scene. It’s a spot that feels especially magical in the late afternoon, when the light softens and the colours of the buildings seem to glow. Whether you pause here for photos or simply to take it all in, Place de l’Étoile perfectly captures Obernai’s storybook charm.
Traditional restaurant signage advertising tarte flambée, a classic Alsatian dish, hanging from a half-timbered building in Obernai. The image reflects the town’s strong culinary traditions and local food culture.
Offering tarte flambée

From here, continue to drift through the surrounding lanes and let curiosity lead the way. Obernai is wonderfully compact and easy to navigate — you’re unlikely to get truly lost — yet it constantly tempts you down side streets and hidden passages. These quaint alleyways, with their cobbles, shuttered windows, and quiet corners, invite you to slow down and savour the experience.

It’s this effortless blend of discovery and comfort that makes wandering Obernai such a pleasure. Every turn feels like it might reveal another small delight, and more often than not, it does.

Crit'Air vignette required for driving in France

If you’re heading to France from the UK with your own vehicle, you’ll need a Crit’Air ‘clean air’ car sticker.

Just like our low-emission zones in the UK, France now legally requires the display of a Crit’Air vignette. The good news is, these stickers are readily available and affordable online through the official French government website.

The Crit’Air sticker lasts the lifetime of the vehicle, so it’s a one-off purchase. The RAC website offers an in-depth guide to everything you need to know and your requirements.

Alsace Wine, Traditions and Local Flavours

Distinctive Glasses and Lasting Memories
We have so many fond memories of travelling through the Alsace region over the years, but one thing that always stays with us is the local wine — not just the taste, but the way it’s served. Alsatian wines are traditionally poured into tall, elegant green-stemmed glasses, instantly recognisable and completely unique to the region. It’s a small detail, but one that somehow captures the character of Alsace perfectly.
Janis holding a glass of pinot noir wine in Obernai, France. As is tradition in the region the wine glass has a green glass stem and a clear top. She is overlooking the town square including the town hall displaying the French tricolore.
A Pinot Noir in those glasses

Whether you’re seated at a sunny terrace in Obernai or tucked inside a cosy winstub, enjoying a glass of crisp Riesling or floral Gewürztraminer feels like a rite of passage. And once you’ve experienced it, you’ll find that whenever you spot those distinctive glasses again — anywhere in the world — they instantly transport you back to Alsace.

Of course, no glass of Alsatian wine should ever be enjoyed alone. There’s really only one dish worthy of accompanying it, and that is tarte flambée (or flammekueche). Thin, crisp and utterly moreish, this regional speciality is a simple yet irresistible combination of dough, crème fraîche, onions, and lardons, baked until blistered and golden.

I thin and crispy Tarte flambée, A speciality of the Alsace region, topped with crème fraiche, thinly sliced onions and fine lardons of smoked bacon
Tarte Flambée
Served piping hot and often shared, tarte flambée is the ultimate comfort food — perfect after a day of wandering Obernai’s cobbled streets. Paired with a chilled local white wine, it’s a culinary moment that feels effortless, authentic, and deeply rooted in Alsatian tradition. If there’s one thing you must try while visiting, this is it.

Why not check out another post?

If Obernai has sparked your curiosity, there’s so much more of the Alsace region waiting to be explored. From vineyard-lined routes to storybook towns and historic cities, we’ve shared more of our favourite Alsace experiences below. Take a look and see which destination tempts you next.

Where We Stayed in Obernai

A Comfortable Night at L’Ecurie
For our one-night stay in Obernai, we chose L’Ecurie, a charming family-run B&B that turned out to be a wonderful base for exploring the town. From the moment we arrived, it felt welcoming and personal — exactly what you hope for when staying somewhere small and independently run.
The lounge area of our Obernai accommodation offers a comfortable seating space with soft furnishings and natural light from French doors. It provides a relaxing retreat after exploring the historic streets of this Alsace town.
The lounge of our accommodation in Obernai
Our room was both stylish and surprisingly spacious, arranged over two floors, which gave it a lovely sense of separation and character. The décor was modern and fresh, yet still felt in keeping with the historic surroundings, making it a comfortable retreat after a full afternoon of wandering the Old Town.
The cosy bedroom of our Obernai accommodation features warm lighting, wooden floors, and rustic stone details spread over two levels. This inviting space reflects the character and comfort of a boutique stay in the heart of Alsace.
The bedroom of our accomodation in Obernai

Although L’Ecurie sits on one of the main roads leading into Obernai’s historic centre, it was impressively quiet and peaceful, especially in the evening. Its location is hard to beat — set right by the old ramparts and just a short stroll from the heart of the Old Town. Everything felt close at hand, whether heading out for dinner, an evening walk, or an early morning wander through the streets before the town fully woke up.
For a short stay, L’Ecurie struck the perfect balance between comfort, convenience, and character — somewhere we’d happily return to if we found ourselves back in Obernai again.

Have you ...

... discovered a French town that captured your heart the moment you arrived? Perhaps a place where the streets, food, or atmosphere made you want to stay just a little longer. We’d love to hear about your favourites—share them with us in the comments below.

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