by Janis / 2 comments - Orginally published:30th October 2017
Centuries of history at your feet…
Our 4th destination on our Croatian road trip after exploring Plitvice Lakes NP and the charming cities of Zadar and Trogir was the ancient walled city of Dubrovnik.
Initially, Gary and I weren’t too sure whether to include Dubrovnik on our road trip; we considered returning to Croatia at a later date and visiting the historic city as a mini break.
However, in hindsight, I’m pleased we did.
We stayed in Dubrovnik for three nights, and for one of the days, we were going to drive into Bosnia and Herzegovina to visit Mostar. So, with this in mind, we knew we needed a Green Card for car insurance purposes. Therefore, crossing through Bosnia to get to and from Dubrovnik wasn’t going to be a problem.
Why not Pin it for later?
Are you considering a Croatian adventure? Take a look at our itinerary for our Croatian road trip and discover 6 UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Where is Dubrovnik?
How to get to Dubrovnik
- By Air
There are various airports to choose from in Croatia; browse through Booking.com for departures from your local airport. Pre-book your hire car from Rental Cars, and your adventure begins.
- By Car
If you’re heading from the UK by car, jump on Le Shuttle or a Brittany Ferry and venture off to Croatia under your own steam. Check out our Road Trip checklist for handy advice.
Local wine in Croatia
A tipple to take homeWe decided to bypass the Bosnia and Herzegovina border completely when we headed south to Dubrovnik and took the ferry from Ploče to Tripanj with Croatia Ferries. We then had the pleasure of driving through the rural countryside, passing vineyards, through Ston, and then onwards to Dubrovnik.
Local wine for home
The scenery travelling through the peninsular of Pelješac was delightful, and taking this route gave us an opportunity to stop at a local vineyard and purchase some regional wine to take back home.
Overlooking the harbour
Section TextNow, I know we are in the minority here, and I don’t want to say this too loud, but we have never seen the hit TV show Game of Thrones!!!
So, for us, the lure of Dubrovnik wasn’t the possibility of a chance meeting with Kit Harington; it was to explore the ancient walled city, swathed in terracotta roof tiles.
Did you know?
That Dubrovnik Old Town has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.
If you've yet to discover the delights of Croatia you're in for a treat. While planning our road trip, I used the DK Eyewitness books. I find them extremely informative, easy to follow and the pictures and maps tempt you into discovering more.
We used a previous version of this book to plan our north to south Croatian road trip, now you can grab the revised copy.
Strolling Dubrovnik’s Ramparts
Breath-taking views across the Adriatic SeaOur Dubrovnik apartment accommodation was only around a 10-minute walk (downhill) to the historic Ploče Gate, marking the edge of the city walls. So, in no time at all, we were in the heart of the historic city of Dubrovnik, overlooking the Old Port and marina.
Protecting Dubrovnik's old harbour
Gary and I wanted to explore the medieval city walls in the morning to avoid it being too crowded, as we had heard it could get busy. Still, actually, it wasn’t too bad.
Dubrovnik's Old City Walls
This may sound logical, but the rambling ramparts can only be accessed from three locations around the city walls. They can only be navigated in one direction (anti-clockwise).
Sailing past the Old Town
This really helps, as some of the pathways are very narrow, and you would continuously be stopping for people to pass by if it was 2-way.
Looking from Dubrovnik's old city walls
The views from all around the Dubrovnik city walls are incredible; you can enjoy the vista across the top of church spires, rooftop terraces, the Old Port and the network of streets below.
Over the rooftops
You also have an amazing view across the azure blue seas of the Adriatic and the island of Lokrum beyond.
This spectacular scenery has been cherished for centuries.
Lokrum Island
Remember the Water
In places, the city walls are steep, but in general, they are pretty; remember to take some water.
Exploring Dubrovnik’s ancient streets
A labyrinth of history beneath your feetOnce we had circumnavigated the city of Dubrovnik from above, we were ready to discover the charming streets from ground level. Dubrovnik is steeped in so much history you’ll find a delight around every corner. No sooner than you would’ve wandered beneath Ploče Gate, you’re immediately immersed in the past.
Ploče Gate at night
Experiencing the historic medieval city day and night is the perfect way to discover Dubrovnik; when the crowds have dispersed in the evening, the city reveals itself further.
Stradun at night
Ambling along the cobbled-stone lanes towards the centre of the Old City, you’re immediately drawn to Luža Square. Here you’ll be walking into one end of the Stradun and instantly stumble upon Sponza Palace.
The Sponza Palace
All around here are stunning buildings, including St Blaise Church, Orlando’s Column, the small Onofrio’s Fountain, and the Bell Tower, which is prominent in Dubrovnik’s skyline.
Sponza Palace and clocktower
Small Onofrio’s Fountain
Church of St Blaise
You’ll be struggling to take it all in at once as there is so much to see; you feel like you’ve wandered into a museum. Believe me, your camera will start to go into overdrive.
Visiting Croatia
For further advice on visiting Croatia, head to the official tourism website Croatia – Full of Life.
Climbing the Jesuit Stairs
Visit St Ignatius ChurchA short stroll from Sponza Palace, passing by Rector’s Palace, you’ll arrive at Dubrovnik’s 18th-century Cathedral, ‘Assumption of the Virgin Mary’. There is so much more to discover amongst these ancient streets.
The Rector’s Palace
Continuing through the maze of shiny cobbled lanes, you’ll reach one of my favourite spots in Dubrovnik, a monumental Baroque stairway known as the Jesuit Stairs.
The Jesuit Steps
St Ignatius Church
These charming stairs are reminiscent of the Spanish Steps in Rome; however, the ones in Dubrovnik are on a smaller scale but equally beautiful. Ensure you climb to the top of the ornate steps for the view down and also to visit St Ignatius Church.
Don’t Be put off
With the threat of cruise liner tours, perhaps just choose the time of year you go. We went in September, and yes, it was fairly busy but not too bad; it quietens down in the evening.
Our video of Dubrovnik
We have created a little YouTube video of Dubrovnik. Why not take a look?
Also, why not subscribe to our YouTube channel and get the latest clips as we post them?
Dubrovnik is hilly
Don those comfy shoesOne of the things that surprised us about the old town of Dubrovnik was how steep it is within the medieval walls. I appreciate that the ramparts will be high as they were built as a defence. However, the historic city is V-shaped, and the streets and narrow lanes climb pretty high up to the north and south walls.
Strolling the lanes at night
Climbing the lanes
We found one of the great ways to discover Old Town Dubrovnik is just to wander and get lost.
A few areas of the city are still very much lived in by locals; there are playgrounds, schools, lovely kitchen gardens and washing hanging out high across the lanes from window to window.
Why not check out more from Croatia
Strolling through Stradun
An iconic street through DubrovnikWhen you enter Dubrovnik Old Town from the west, you’ll pass through the Pile Gate entrance. Along the winding pathway, you are led straight into the Placa – Stradun, one of Dubrovnik’s iconic views and one of its bustling streets.
Pile Gate
Looking down on Stradun
Prior to wandering along Stradun, enjoy some time exploring the historic square and the 15th-century domed Onofrio’s Large Fountain. The fountain was named after its architect and built-in 1438.
This striking Neapolitan public fountain has sixteen water jets trickling from delightful ornate faces.
The large Onofrio Fountain
Detail on Onofrio Fountain
Insurance Green Card
At the Neum border crossing the authorities didn’t ask for the Green Card. However, it was certainly needed at Ivanica during our day trip to Mostar.
Birdseye view of Dubrovnik
A perfect view across the Adriatic SeaOn our final morning in Dubrovnik, before heading off on our next adventure to Split, we drove up to the viewpoint high above the ancient city to catch the iconic aerial view.
Aerial view of Dubrovnik
The views across the Adriatic Sea and the magnificent city of Dubrovnik were stunning; you get a fantastic perspective of how the city and its streets are laid out below.
Cable car to the viewpoint
Enjoy the View
The roads can be tight and twisty leading up to the viewpoint, but don’t worry; you can hop on a 90-minute convertible bus tour to enjoy 3 incredible views of the city.
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Where we ate in Dubrovnik
Konobas are the way to goDubrovnik certainly isn’t short of welcoming restaurants and tasty konobas to choose from., you’re spoilt for choice. However, Gary and I always prefer to try local cuisine, and while in Croatia, we particularly steered towards seafood.
Some of the restaurants are slightly more commercialised than others. Still, there are some fantastic eateries to be found serving delicious fresh food.
Stuffed squid at Konoba Koloseum
One of our evenings, we came across the Konoba Koloseum, just at the bottom of the Jesuit Steps. The staff were extremely friendly and not too pushy, and to top it all, the food was delightful.
I had fish soup, then freshly grilled seabass, and Gary had local cheese and prosciutto, followed by stuffed grilled squid. Wash down with a crisp Croatian white wine at a fairly reasonable price.
Grilled sea bass at Konoba Koloseum
We found some lovely restaurants while we were in Dubrovnik, serving local cuisine another; was Portun Restaurantwhich was in the heart of the medieval old town.
Then close to our accommodation in Dubrovnik we had a really enjoyable meal at Konoba Pjatanca,here, we were given a complimentary walnut liqueur made by the waitress’s brother.
Be prepared
Dubrovnik is more expensive than other parts of Croatia, particularly for food and drink, check out our post for other Croatian culinary delights.
Where we stayed in Dubrovnik
Villa Leoni with spectacular viewsOur accommodation for the three nights we were in Dubrovnik was at Villa Leoni, and this was probably our favourite apartment from our 2-week Croatian road trip.
The view from Villa Leoni
The views from the apartment were stunning, overlooking the blue seas of the Adriatic, with Lokrum Island to the left and Dubrovnik Old Town to the right. The owners were very welcoming and couldn't do enough for us. We also had the sole use of a patio, and the parking facilities above the apartment were fantastic, even for a large car like ours.
Our bedroom at Villa Leoni
It was a bit of a climb back each evening, but that’s Dubrovnik for you, it can't be avoided.
Have You?
Explored Dubrovnik and climbed the city walls? What did you love about the Old Town?
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I love your post! Especially the part where you bypassed the border on your way down. Peljesac peninsula is definitely worth visiting!
Thanks very much, yes it was lovely driving around there and really peaceful. Taking the ferry to Tripanj also meant we got to experience more of the countryside.