by Janis / 0 comments - Orginally published:31st July 2017

A Conqueror and a Martyr….

Yes, we were heading off on a Normandy road trip. We love visiting this northwest region of France. There are so many beautiful places to explore and an untold amount of history to discover.

We chose Rouen, the capital of Normandy, as our base for the first few nights, and then we stayed at Caen, Alençon and Honfleur.

We live in the southeast of the UK and caught Le Shuttle to Calais, which is then around 132 miles (212km) to Rouen. If you are flying into France, it is only 84 miles (132km) northwest of Paris.

The delightful city of Rouen lies along the River Seine and is the perfect location to base yourself to discover Normandy. Explore its charming surrounding villages and the lush rolling countryside; from Rouen. we also visited Monet’s family home in Giverny and the ruins of Jumièges Abbey.

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Take a peek at our full itinerary for this Normandy road trip.

Where is Rouen?

How to get to Rouen

- By Car
Departing from the UK to France, there are various options. You can either jump on Le Shuttle and arrive in Calais in 35 minutes or enjoy a leisurely cruise on the open waves with DFDS or P&O. Alternatively, you can head down to the south coast of England and catch Brittany Ferry directly to Normandy.

- By Air
If you’re flying into France, search for your flights in one easy place with Booking.com. This reliable travel search engine will scan for your favoured routes and chosen dates. Pre-book your hire car from Rental Cars, and your adventure begins.

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A Brief History of Rouen

A phoenix from the ashes

Rouen is a city steeped in fascinating history and has played a significant role within Europe for centuries. Rouen’s strategic location along the Seine River made it a vital trade hub and cultural centre.

Romans and Vikings had both settled in this part of the Seine Valley, and Rouen became one of France’s principal ports. The Vikings evolved into Normans in the 10th century, establishing the Duchy of Normandy; Rouen became Normandy’s capital.

An animated story projected onto the facade of rouen cathedral after dark
Rouen Cathedral illuminated

During the Medieval period, William the Conqueror often held court in Rouen. It was from Dives-sur-Mer, on the northern shores of Normandy in 1066, that William the Conqueror headed to England to leave his permanent mark on British history.

It was here in Rouen during the Hundred Years’ War, when Normandy was under English rule, the courageous Joan of Arc was imprisoned and executed in 1431.

A narrowed cobbled lane lined with half-timbered buildings in the heart of historic rouen, normandy
Stepping back in time
tables and chairs outside half-timbered building in the historic heart of old rouen, normandy
Picturesque streets in Rouen

During World War II, Rouen fell under German occupation from 1940 to 1944 and suffered heavily through Allied bombing in 1944. Despite Rouen’s extensive devastation, the city has undergone significant restoration and reconstruction efforts.

The city's historical landmarks, including the Cathedral, have been meticulously restored, and the city has emerged as a vibrant cultural destination.

We love visiting France and each region so different from one another. I find the DK Eyewitness Guides really helpful in planning a trip and so often find interesting little snippets of info.

Take a peek at this revised Top 10 Pocket Travel Guide and see what you can discover.

DK Normandy Cover

Visiting Rouen Cathedral

Grand Dame taking centre stage

Rouen’s striking centrepiece is the magnificent Gothic Cathedral of Notre Dame. This grand Dame with three ornate towers was consecrated in 1063 in the presence of William the Conqueror.

Rouen Cathedral, with its ornate gothic façade, is the tallest in France and was a much-loved favourite of the French artist Claude Monet, who painted the Cathedral over thirty times.

The facade of rouen cathedral, with its twin stone towers either side of the entrance
Façade of Rouen Cathedral
the view along the nave of the cathedral of notre dame in rouen, normandy
Nave of Rouen Cathedral

Many historical figures are entombed within Rouen Cathedral, including William I, Duke of Normandy and Matilda of England. However, possibly the most renowned person is Richard the Lionheart. Richard I was King of England from 1189 until his death in 1199. He was also ruled as Duke of Normandy.

Within the tomb only rests Richard the Lionheart’s heart.

The tomb of Richard the Lionheart inside of Rouen Cathedral in Normandy. The stone tomb topped by a supine figure of the King wearing a crown and holding his sword by his side.
Richard the Lionheart

Unsurprisingly, owing to Rouen Cathedral’s age, prime location, and incredible size, ‘Our Lady of Rouen’ has suffered numerous occasions over the years due to natural and man-made disasters. Even as recently as July 2024, when the central spire caught fire.

Rouen Cathedral has three different styles of spires piercing the skyline; the first is the Saint-Romain tower on the left of the west front, which was part of the original Gothic Cathedral. The second is the Butter Tower, constructed between 1488 and 1506, and stands on the righthand side.

The central spire, named the Lantern Tower, stands 151 metres high and is built above the transept, almost in the centre of the Cathedral.

A portrait view of an elegant stone staircase, within Rouen Cathedral in Normandy, leading from a wooden door at ground level up two floors. This ornate piece is known as the bookseller's staircase.
Lescaliere de Librairie -The Booksellers Staircase
Stone statues of religious figures lined up on the inside of Rouen Cathedral in the heart of Normandy.
Statues inside the Cathedral

Rouen Cathedral is fascinating to wander around with its vast number of intimate chapels and beautiful, ancient stained-glass windows.

Another intriguing element of Rouen Cathedral was L’Escaliere de Librairie (The Booksellers Staircase); this 15th century staircase once led to the cathedral’s medieval library.

Lining some of the aisles within the Cathedral are almost life-size statues of saints that have been removed from the Cathedral’s façade. Many of them have undergone restoration from centuries of wear and tear.

Where to stay in Rouen

Mercure Rouen Centre Champs de Mars

Our accommodation while staying in Rouen was at the Mercure Rouen Centre Champs de Mars. The hotel was very clean, and the staff were friendly, it was around 10-12 minutes’ walk to the centre of the town.

The Mercure Rouen Centre Champs de Mars had a secure underground car park, which was important to us; a daily charge is applied.

Alternatively, pop your dates in the Booking.com search box and discover further options for all budgets.

Rouen Cathedral Light Show

Incredible history brought to life
If you are visiting Rouen in the summer months, ensure you stay for the evening and enjoy the breathtaking light display that is illuminated across the façade of the enchanting cathedral.

The stunning light display is projected onto the vast Cathedral at nightfall and runs from the end of May until the end of September. During July and August, it is on every evening; in the shoulder months, it is illuminated on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Here is a clip to give you a bit of a taster.

Also, why not subscribe to our YouTube channel and get the latest clips as we post them?

Viewing Rouen Cathedral Light Show

Although the crowds started to gather around 10pm, we headed over to the Cathedral at 22:55 and had a great view. An added bonus is that the Rouen Cathedral light show is free!!

Maid of Orléans

The heroine ‘Joan of Arc’
Joan of Arc, also known as Jeanne d'Arc, was a young French peasant girl who became a pivotal figure in the Hundred Years' War. She was born around 1412 in Domrémy, France; she claimed to receive divine visions and messages urging her to lead the French army to victory against the English.
The stone tower that imprisoned Joan of Arc during her final days in Rouen.
Joan of Arc tower

Joan of Arc successfully rallied the French troops to continue to upset the English army; she played a crucial role in the Siege of Orléans in 1429, where she inspired the French to a decisive victory.

However, Joan's success was short-lived. She was captured by the Burgundians, allies of the English, and handed over to the English. It was in Rouen where she was imprisoned in a keep, now known as Joan of Arc Tower, where she was threatened and tortured.

The imposing tower of Tour Jeanne d’Arc is all that now remains of the extensive castle that French King Philippe Auguste had built in Rouen.

A stone tablet marking the spot where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in Central of Rouen, in front of a modern market building.
The site of the pyre for Joan of Ar

Accused of heresy and witchcraft, she was put on trial and found guilty. Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in Rouen on May 30, 1431, at the very young age of 19.

A plaque marking the place where Joan of Arc was murdered stands in the Place du Vieux-Marche.

In 1920, Joan of Arc was made a saint by the pope at St Peter’s Basilica, Rome.

Normandy Tourist Information

If you’re tempted to visit Normandy, take a peek at the official Normandy Tourism website. The local tourist offices and the Visit Rouen site provide some extremely useful information and handy pointers for around the region.

The Gros-Horloge

An astronomical clock
The Gros-Horloge, or Great Clock, is a striking 14th-century astronomical timepiece. It is one of the oldest clocks in France, with its movements dating back to 1389. However, I think it may be challenging to set your watch by, as it only does one revolution every 29 days.
Rouens famous Gros-Horloge. An ornate, gold-trimmed, clock mounted above an arch in one of the old town's thoroughfares next to a stone belfry.
Gros-Horloge & Belfry
Looking through the arch under Rouens famous Gros-Horloge. An ornate, gold-trimmed, clock mounted on one of the old town's thoroughfares next to a stone belfry.
Gros-Horloge

The clock is housed in a beautiful Renaissance archway that crosses the Rue du Gros-Horloge. The archway itself is a work of art, adorned with intricate sculptures and carvings. The clock face is equally impressive, featuring intricate details and astronomical calculations.

The Gros-Horloge is a cherished landmark in Rouen and a popular visitor attraction. You can admire the stunning clock from the street or take a guided tour of the tower to learn more about its history and mechanics.

Exploring the streets of Rouen

History at your feet

There is no better way to explore any town or city than on foot; Rouen is no exception. You really wouldn’t want to miss out on any of the stunning medieval architecture.

Rouen has a magnificent array of timbered-framed buildings throughout its cobbled streets within the Old Town; it certainly gives Troyes in the Grand Est a run for its money.

A view of the different colours of the half-timbered buildings of Rouen
Historical Streets
A close-up look of two of the traditional buildings in the centre of Rouen featuring half-timbered constructions that is so typical of the Normandy region of France
Timbered buildings
Rouen is a lovely city to stroll around; there is so much ancient history to be found along the cobbled lanes and alleyways. Not only is there some striking architecture to admire, but there are also some great little shops and cafes, just teasing you to pop in and take a look.
An ornate art deco style facade to a pastisserie in Rouen.
Amazing architecture
A quiet leafy corner of Rouen framed with half-timbered buildings.
Half-timbered buildings of Rouen
Rouen has an enjoyable and relaxed bustling atmosphere about it; it’s easy to just sit back in one of its many cafés or bars and enjoy listening to the locals and being a fly on the wall.
An evening scene of people sitting both inside and outside a cafe/bar in Rouen.
Café Life, Rouen
Our French language communication is still quite limited even though we are persevering with Duolingo; however, even with our imperfect phrases, we understood the odd "Merde!" here and there.

Our video of Rouen

We have created a little YouTube video of Rouen.  Why not take a look?

Also, why not subscribe to our YouTube channel and get the latest clips as we post them?

Grand Architecture in Rouen

Gothic splendours

Strolling around the historic streets of Rouen, you’ll spot some beautiful grand architecture from many classic eras of time.

Just within a reasonably short stroll of each other, you’ll discover the ornate Gothic Palais de Justice, the striking Church of Saint-Maclou and the Hotel de Ville next to the Abbey of Saint Ouen.

The beautiful gothic detail in the Palais de Justice in the centre of Rouen. The golden stone still seems bright under grey skies.
Palais de Justice

Palais de Justice is an ornate gothic building and the former parliament of Normandy. It is believed to be one of the finest examples of medieval civic architecture in France.

During excavations at the Palais de Justice in the 1970s, ancient ruins of a medieval Jewish building, one of the oldest Jewish buildings known in France, were uncovered.

The gothic Abbey of Saint Oeun in Rouen under dark, brooding, skies.
Abbey of Saint Oeun, Rouen

The Abbey of Saint Ouen in Rouen is a magnificent Gothic church, a former Benedictine monastic church. The abbey is renowned for its stunning Gothic architecture, particularly its towering nave and intricate stonework.

Saint-Ouen Abbey has been a significant religious centre for centuries. It played an important role in the Hundred Years' War and was a place of pilgrimage and rest.

We discovered

Oddly, we visited Norwich this year in the UK, which is twinned with Rouen….well, who knew.

A pleasant evening in Rouen

Head to Rue Eau de Robec

You certainly won’t have a problem spending a charming and entertaining evening in Rouen. Our advice is to make a little detour away from the more popular squares in the city and wander down the picturesque Rue Eau de Robec.

All along this floral lane runs a gently flowing stream where locals sit and enjoy an evening with friends and family.

A stream flowing along a restaurant-lined street in Rouen, Normandy
Rue Eau de Robec

There are plenty of restaurants and cafés along Rue Eau de Robec offering an eclectic mix of French cuisine. We found a local restaurant serving French food in a tapas style.

The dishes were of fantastic quality and were made even more enjoyable by sitting outside by the little river.

Crit'Air vignette required for driving in France

If you’re heading to France from the UK with your own vehicle, you’ll need a Crit’Air ‘clean air’ car sticker.

Just like our low-emission zones in the UK, France now legally requires the display of a Crit’Air vignette. The good news is, these stickers are readily available and affordable online through the official French government website.

The Crit’Air sticker lasts the lifetime of the vehicle, so it’s a one-off purchase. The RAC website offers an in-depth guide to everything you need to know and your requirements.

Why not check out more on Normandy

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History, cider, crepes & art, what more could you want?

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Aug. 21, 2017

The Core of Calvados, Caen, France

Here lies William the Conqueror…

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Beuvron-en-Auge, Normandy, France

Along the trail of the cider route…

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Aug. 03, 2017

Monet’s Giverny, France

I was in my element….

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