by Janis / 0 comments - Orginally published:27th December 2017
So, good they named it twice …
On our homeward journey from a Croatian road trip, we decided to add a short but enticing detour into Germany, choosing the elegant spa town of Baden-Baden. Nestled at the edge of the Black Forest, the town has long been associated with relaxation, refinement, and wellbeing — a reputation that stretches back nearly two millennia.
The name Baden quite literally means “to bathe”, a reference to the natural thermal springs that first attracted the Romans, who established bathing complexes here as early as the 1st century. Over time, Baden-Baden evolved into one of Europe’s most fashionable spa destinations, drawing aristocracy, artists, writers, and royalty in search of health, leisure, and a little indulgence.
To distinguish itself from other spa towns also called Baden — including one in Austria and another in Switzerland — the town officially adopted the name Baden-Baden in 1931. It’s a name that feels perfectly suited to a place with such a long-standing identity, one that effortlessly blends ancient spa culture with Belle Époque elegance and modern sophistication.
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Where is Baden-Baden?
How to get to Baden-Baden
- By Air
The nearest airport to Baden-Baden, Germany is Airport Karlsruhe/Baden-Baden (FKB). It’s about 17–19 km (10–12 miles) west of Baden-Baden city centre and local buses run from the Airpark Terminal to Baden-Baden. The journey usually takes about 25–30 minutes.
- By Train
Baden-Baden is well connected to other German cities by ICE/DB services
- By Car
The centre of Baden-Baden is around 7–10 km (4–6 miles) from the A5 Autobahn. If you're in your own car, or picked the best provider for you from Rental Cars, then Baden-Baden is a gateway to the Black Forest
Discovering Baden-Baden in Half a Day
First Impressions of a Relaxed Spa TownWith only half a day to explore Baden-Baden, we knew this would be more of a taster than a deep dive — but sometimes that’s all a place needs to win you over. After arriving at our hotel and dropping off our bags, we headed straight down into town, keen to make the most of every hour.
The view from Augustaplatz
Our first stop was lunch, chosen purely on instinct rather than planning, which felt perfectly in keeping with the mood of the town. Almost immediately, Baden-Baden encourages you to slow down. There’s a calm, unhurried rhythm here — perhaps a legacy of its spa culture — and it quickly becomes clear that rushing would feel out of place.
From Augustaplatz, we began to wander, letting the streets guide us rather than following a set route. Elegant façades, tree-lined avenues, and glimpses of green spaces appear at every turn, creating a sense of order without formality. Even in the town centre, there’s a softness to Baden-Baden — traffic is minimal, voices are low, and café terraces invite lingering rather than passing through.
Classic buildings
As we strolled, it felt less like sightseeing and more like absorbing the atmosphere. Baden-Baden doesn’t demand attention with grand gestures; instead, it reveals itself gradually through details — ornate balconies, manicured gardens, and the gentle presence of water never far away. For a place explored in just a few short hours, it left a lasting impression, quietly convincing us that Baden-Baden is somewhere best savoured rather than rushed.
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Red or Black? Shopping and the Famous Casino
Elegance, Boutiques and the KurhausWandering through the town centre, we passed stylish boutiques, antique shops, and inviting cafés — along with plenty of places to spend any winnings you might have made the night before at the casino.
The Arcade
At the heart of it all stands the magnificent Kurhaus Baden-Baden. Built in the early 19th century, this grand spa resort and casino complex has long attracted royalty, aristocrats, and celebrities from across Europe. While we admired the architecture, we resisted the temptation to try our luck at the tables.
The Kurhaus
I love nothing more than planning a trip and so often I use the DK Eyewitness books. I find them extremely informative, easy to follow and the pictures and maps tempt you into discovering more.
We used a previous version of this book to plan our Germany road trips, now you can grab the revised copy.
Trinkhalle Baden-Baden – The Grand Pump House
Thermal Waters and Monumental ArchitectureJust a short stroll from the Kurhaus is the impressive Trinkhalle, dating back to the 19th century. Unlike many pump rooms you might have seen elsewhere, this one is particularly grand.
Trinkhalle view
Door to the Trinkhalle
Stretching along a 90-metre arcade, the Trinkhalle features Corinthian columns and richly detailed murals depicting local legends and landscapes. Historically, visitors would promenade here while drinking the thermal spa waters, which were believed to have healing properties.
Trinkhalle
Tranquillity and Opulence in Baden-Baden
Theatre, Gardens and Sophisticated ArchitectureWalking beyond the Kurhaus Baden-Baden, Baden-Baden begins to reveal its more refined and quietly luxurious side. The route leads past the graceful Theatre Baden-Baden, an exquisite example of Belle Époque architecture, where ornate detailing and balanced proportions speak of a time when culture, leisure, and appearance mattered deeply.
The Theatre
From here, the town gently opens out into a series of peaceful landscaped gardens, immaculately maintained and designed for strolling rather than hurrying. Paths weave between manicured lawns, mature trees, and floral displays, creating calm green spaces that feel worlds away from the pressures of everyday life. It’s easy to imagine 19th-century spa guests promenading here, taking the air between treatments and social engagements.
A view over the gardens
Baden-Baden carries an unmistakable air of sophistication. The architecture is elegant without being ostentatious, refined rather than imposing. This sense of cultured luxury is further reinforced by the presence of the Fabergé Museum, a surprising yet fitting addition to the town. Few places can claim a dedicated museum to the famed jeweller, and its presence here feels entirely appropriate given Baden-Baden’s long association with wealth, artistry, and European high society.
The Faberge museum
Surrounding streets reveal beautifully preserved villas and townhouses, such as Haus Victoria, each contributing to the town’s cohesive and polished appearance. Everything feels considered, from the scale of the buildings to the flow between culture, nature, and architecture.
Stylish architecture
It’s this seamless blend of tranquillity and opulence that makes Baden-Baden so appealing. The town never feels showy or overwhelming; instead, it invites you to slow down, look closer, and quietly appreciate the layers of history and elegance that have shaped it over centurie
Haus Victoria
Architectural Style of Baden-Baden
Baden-Baden is best known for its Belle Époque and Neo-Classical architecture, shaped during the 19th century when the town became Europe’s most fashionable spa resort. Elegant villas, grand spa buildings, and formal gardens reflect aristocratic tastes, symmetry, and refinement, blending French influence with German precision.
Spoilt for Choice: Roman Baths and Thermal Spas
Steam, History and Hilltop ViewsHeading further uphill through the town, we reached the Roman ruins and historic bathhouses. Even today, you can feel the warmth rising from the ground and see steam escaping through the drains — a reminder that Baden-Baden’s thermal activity is still very much alive.
The Friedrichsbad bathing palace
The Friedrichsbad was once the most advanced and important thermal spa in Germany during the late 19th century, combining Roman and Irish bathing traditions under one roof.
The view up to Neues Schlos
Above the town, the Neues Schloss offers commanding views over Baden-Baden and the surrounding countryside.
Roman Roots of Baden-Baden
Long before Baden-Baden became a fashionable spa town, the Romans were already bathing here nearly 2,000 years ago. They established the settlement of Aquae Aureliae, building sophisticated bathhouses to harness the area’s natural thermal springs — some of which still flow today.
Fettquelle Fountain – A Hot Surprise
Drinking Water Straight from the SourceBaden-Baden is home to twelve historic thermal springs, and one of the most unusual is the Fettquelle, a drinking fountain housed within a stone grotto.
The grotto fountain
The grotto was constructed around 1870 using thermal stones. While it is a drinking fountain, be warned — the water reaches temperatures of up to 63°C. I barely touched the water with my hands and almost burnt myself; perhaps it was simply the shock of how hot it was!
Tourist Information for Baden-Baden
For up-to-date visitor information, events, spa access, and practical travel advice, take a look at these official local resources:
These sites are ideal for planning your visit, checking opening times, and discovering what’s on during your stay in Baden-Baden.
Local Fayre in Baden-Baden
Traditional German Food and BeerAlthough undeniably a little touristy, Gary and I couldn’t resist the inviting garden of the Löwenbräu Restaurant.
Meatloaf
We settled into the relaxed outdoor seating and enjoyed classic German comfort food — meatloaf, roast pork, and of course a couple of local beers.
The Löwenbräu restaurant
After a long day of driving and walking, it was exactly what we needed.
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