by Janis / 0 comments - Orginally published:5th May 2020

From the arrival of the Romans to the enchanting contemporary public art

The moment we arrived in Zadar, I knew we were going to love it. There was something immediately magnetic about the city — a blend of ancient history, coastal calm, and creative modern touches that felt completely unique.
Gary and I were travelling by car from the UK, and our first stop on entering Croatia had been inland at the breathtaking Plitvice Lakes National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From there, we headed west toward the Dalmatian coast.

The drive to Zadar was idyllic. The road hugged the shoreline, hopping visually between islands, with the Adriatic Sea shimmering beside us. It’s one of those journeys that stays with you long after the engine is switched off.
When we finally pulled up within Zadar’s historic centre and stepped through one of the old city gates, part of the medieval walls and ramparts, we entered a compact, atmospheric city layered with centuries of stories. Here’s what we uncovered.

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Where is Zadar?

How to get to Zadar

- By Air
The three biggest airports in Croatia are Zagreb, Dubrovnik & Split.

Then pick up your Rental Car and start exploring Croatia

- By Car
If you’re heading from the UK by car, jump on Le Shuttle and venture off to Croatia under your own steam. Check out our Road Trip checklist for handy advice.

One of Zadar’s most iconic landmarks is St Donatus Church, built during the 9th century in the early Middle Ages. The former Roman Catholic church stands proudly at the edge of the Roman Forum, with views stretching toward the Adriatic Sea and the islands beyond.
The circular church of St Donatus in Zadar, next to the ruins of the Roman forum, with the Venetian style bell tower in the background.
St Donatus Church
Its distinctive circular design immediately sets it apart from other churches in Croatia and was one of the main reasons I was keen to step inside. Despite having very few windows, the interior feels surprisingly light and airy, with a calm simplicity that makes it all the more striking.
A view of the pillars inside the 9th century St Donatus Church in Zadar, looking up towards the wooden domed roof.
Pillars inside the 9th century St Donatus Church
The beautifully light interior of St Donatus Church in Zadar, contrasted against the wooden interior of its dome.
The interior of St Donatus Church
St Donatus is no longer a place of worship, nonetheless, due to its amazing acoustics, it is used for musical performances.

Stay informed

You will find us across many forms of social media. You will find our latest posts, some throwbacks, links to historic events with our 'On this day' posts, across Facebook, X, Bluesky & Threads. Each week, themed visual content on Instagram, and our narrated travels on YouTube. Collections of the images in our posts are also collated into boards on Pinterest.
Zadar’s relationship with the sea is ever-present. Whether strolling past the modern marinas or wandering around the characterful old harbour of Foša, the coastline is a joy to explore.
Standing on the marina side, with expensive, superyachts and tall sailing ships moored up, overlooking the ancient city of Zadar, Croatia
Marina by the ancient city of Zadar
Foša Harbour sits just outside the ancient city walls near the impressive Land Gate, once a key defensive entrance to the city. I loved the atmosphere here — calm yet lively — with boats gently bobbing on the water and flashes of marine life weaving beneath their colourful hulls.
Overlooking the Foša harbour, from the Queen Jelena Madijevka Park, by the Land Gate in Zadar, Croatia
Foša harbour by the Land Gate in Zadar
For one of the best viewpoints, head up toward Queen Jelena Madijevka Park, where you’re rewarded with sweeping views across the harbour and out to the open Adriatic.
The Romans played a major role in shaping Zadar’s identity. The Roman Forum, constructed between the 1st century BC and 3rd century AD, was founded under Emperor Augustus and once formed the civic heart of the Roman city of Iader.
The ruins of the Roman Forum in front of St Mary’s Church, Zadar, with just small sections of the stone columns remaining
Roman Forum in front of St Mary’s Church, Zadar

During this era, Zadar became a fortified city surrounded by walls, towers, and gates. The forum itself covered approximately 45 by 90 metres, occupying a prime position overlooking the sea.

Although much of the original structure has been lost to time, sections of the outline remain. In one corner stands the preserved Monumental Column, ominously known as the ‘Pillar of Shame’, once used as a public punishment post.

The Roman ‘Pillar of Shame’ in the Roman Forum of Zadar, with the Venetian Bell Tower in the background
Roman ‘Pillar of Shame’ in the Roman Forum

If you've yet to discover the delights of Croatia you're in for a treat. While planning our road trip, I used the DK Eyewitness books.  I find them extremely informative, easy to follow and the pictures and maps tempt you into discovering more.

We used a previous version of this book to plan our north to south Croatian road trip, now you can grab the revised copy.

DK Croatia Cover
One of my favourite aspects of visiting Zadar was simply promenading along the Riva. Don’t get me wrong — I adore the layers of history found throughout the Old Town — but there’s something truly special about walking beside the Adriatic Sea, with a warm breeze drifting through your hair and the sound of water never far away.
A bronze sculpture to Spiridon Brusina, a Croatian natural scientist, sits contemplating on the Riva, with the Adriatic sea glistening in front of him, as he looks into a conch shell.
Bronze sculpture to Spiridon Brusina, a Croatian natural scientist

The Riva is where Zadar slows down. Locals and visitors alike stroll, pause, sit, and watch the world go by. Along the promenade you’ll spot small details that reflect the city’s character, including the bronze sculpture dedicated to Spiridon Brusina, a reminder of Zadar’s intellectual and scientific heritage quietly woven into everyday life.

Whether you visit at sunrise, when the light gently lifts over the islands and the city feels almost hushed, or in the evening, as the air turns balmy and people gather for drinks and conversation, the Riva creates memories that linger long after you’ve left. For those who know me, it will come as no surprise — I never like being too far from water, and Zadar’s Riva felt like the perfect place to be.

Visiting Croatia

For further advice on visiting Croatia, head to the official tourism website Croatia – Full of Life.

Or you can check out Zadar’s local tourist board website.

Continuing along Zadar’s Riva, you eventually reach one of the city’s most enchanting modern creations — the Sea Organ.
The Sea Organ, hidden under Zadar’s Riva at dusk, after the sun has set, but there is still blue light. Shallow steps lead down to the waters of the Adriatic Sea lapping against the edge.
The Sea Organ, hidden under Zadar’s Riva at dusk

Hidden beneath marble steps leading down to the water, the Sea Organ works by harnessing the natural movement of the waves. As seawater surges beneath the steps, it pushes air through a series of pipes of varying lengths and tones, producing a constantly changing, atmospheric soundscape.

It plays day and night, never the same twice, and is a wonderfully calming place to sit and watch the world drift by.

Just steps away from the Sea Organ is another remarkable piece of public art — The Greeting to the Sun.
People gather around the ‘Greeting to the Sun’ light display at Zadar’s Riva at dusk. They are illuminated by the LED floor tiles that make up this open-air art installation.
‘Greeting to the Sun’ light display at Zadar’s Riva

This 22-metre-wide circular installation is made up of 300 multi-layered glass panels that absorb solar energy during the day. As the sun sets, the panels come alive with a dazzling light display that responds to both the sun and the sounds of the Sea Organ nearby.

It’s joyful, communal, and utterly captivating — the kind of place you arrive at for five minutes and end up staying for an hour, cold beer in hand.

Why not tour Croatia?

Start creating your own road trip adventure to Zadar for yourself, by flying directly into Split. Zadar is around 100 miles (160km) north of Split. Take a peek at the offers at Rental Cars, they cover all budgets and allow you to pick up and drop off at different destinations.
I knew that the Venetian Republic had played a major role in Croatia’s history, but I was still surprised by just how visible that influence remains in Zadar.
Holding a freshly scooped gelato in the shadow of the Venetian Bell Tower in the old town of Zadar.
Enjoying a gelato by a Venetian Bell Tower in Zadar
Elegant bell towers, fortified gates, and harmonious proportions echo the architectural language of Venice itself. Combined with the strong Italian influence in local cuisine, there were moments — especially around the squares — where it felt like we’d been briefly transported to St Mark’s Square.

Our video of Zadar

We have created a little YouTube video of Zadar.  Why not take a look?

Also, why not subscribe to our YouTube channel and get the latest clips as we post them?

Zadar’s Old Town is a joy to wander, both day and night. There’s a relaxed, joyful energy here that invites exploration.
A cobbled lane between five-storey homes that leads towards Zadar's old Sea Gate
Towards the Sea Gate
Families sitting at tables under parasols in People’s Square in front of Saint Lawrence Church in Zadar
St Lawrence Church overlooking People’s Square
Rather than traditional cobblestones, many of Zadar’s lanes are paved with pale limestone slabs, worn smooth and rounded by centuries of footsteps. The result is a soft, almost glowing surface that reflects the city’s light beautifully.
Scattered throughout Zadar are inviting squares — some bustling with cafés and restaurants, others peaceful and contemplative.
Families sitting at tables under parasols in People’s Square in the old town of Zadar
People’ Square in the Old Town
People’s Square (Narodni trg) sits at the heart of the Old Town and buzzes from morning until late evening. When we passed through one night after dinner, live music was playing and people of all ages were dancing together.
A large open area around Trg Petra Zoranića in the old town of Zadar
Exploring the old town around Trg Petra Zoranića
Another favourite was Trg Petra Zoranića, near the Five Wells, with its Venetian-style fountain, ancient column, and warm, friendly atmosphere.

Discover more of Croatia

If you’re touring Croatia on a road trip, take a look at our post on the UNESCO sites in Croatia. All of them are incredible, I really don’t think I could choose a favourite.
Featured image for “6 UNESCO World Heritage sites to visit in Croatia”
Oct. 15, 2019

6 UNESCO World Heritage sites to visit in Croatia

Although we only spent a couple of evenings in Zadar, we were fortunate to stumble upon some truly wonderful food. With the Adriatic on its doorstep, seafood naturally features heavily on menus across the city.
A large langoustine on a bed of Ravioli on a blue plate at the Restaurant "Bon Appetit"
Fresh langoustine pasta at Restaurant "Bon Appetit"
We happily sampled langoustine pasta, seared tuna, cuttlefish risotto, and mixed fish skewers — all accompanied by blitva s krumpirom, a traditional side of potato, chard, olive oil, and garlic.
A fish skewer served with potatoes & greens, a light salad on a white rectangular plate.
Fish Skewer from Croatian restaurant Konoba Skoblar

Have you visited Zadar

Have you visited Zadar

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