by Janis / 2 comments - Orginally published:16th October 2017

Strolling in centuries of footsteps

Our 2nd destination on our Croatian road trip after Plitvice Lakes was Zadar, and I’m so pleased we chose it. Zadar’s Old Town full of ancient history and blends in so well with the modern installations of the Sea Organ and Greeting to the Sun.

We have some incredible lasting memories of watching the sunset across the Adriatic Sea on our first evening and then the following day in Zadar, watching yachts sail along the blue waters of the Dalmatian coast. All the while listening to the chimes of the Sea Organ – does life get any better???

Take a look at our itinerary for our Croatian road trip.

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A dark Karlovačko Crno and a golden Karlovačko pilsner by the coastline in Zadar, Croatia
Cold beers by the sea

Where is Zadar?

How to get to Zadar

- By Air
The three biggest airports in Croatia are Zagreb, Dubrovnik & Split.

Don't forget you can always use Booking.com to check out your flight options too. Why not give it a try.  Then pick up your Rental Car and start exploring Croatia

- By Car
If you’re heading from the UK by car, jump on Le Shuttle and venture off to Croatia under your own steam. Check out our Road Trip checklist for handy advice.

Booking.com Search FlightsImage
Booking.com Search FlightsImage

Exploring ancient Zadar

A city with an intriguing past

Ready for our full day in Zadar, we wake up to thunderstorms and downpours; this certainly wasn’t in the plan.

So, after a bit of a delayed start, we head out to explore the ancient city of Zadar. Luckily our apartment was just five minutes from the Old Town, so across the charming footbridge which straddles the marina, it wasn’t long before we had passed through the old city gates.

We were really looking forward to spending a whole getting to know Zadar; it was a fascinating city full of charisma.

The historic sea gate in zadar's city walls. A marble archway, with the winged lion of st. mark, a symbol of venetian rule, leading to the old city centre.
The Sea Gate

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Zadar’s Venetian past

Beautiful Italian influences
Zadar's mix of architecture is magnificent and striking (and, as time will tell, in other parts of Croatia, too), especially its strong Venetian influence. I was aware that areas of Croatia and particularly Zadar, had been under Venetian rule; however, I didn’t expect it to be so evident through the picturesque streets and squares.
People gathred around around Trg Petra Zoranića in the old town of Zadar
The quaint 'Old Town'

The high protruding towers in Zadar stand so elegantly in the squares you’ll be forgiven if your thoughts drift across the Adriatic Sea to Venice and its iconic St. Mark’s Square.

Take a pew, sit back, relax, and watch the world stroll by.

If you've yet to discover the delights of Croatia you're in for a treat. While planning our road trip, I used the DK Eyewitness books.  I find them extremely informative, easy to follow and the pictures and maps tempt you into discovering more.

We used a previous version of this book to plan our north to south Croatian road trip, now you can grab the revised copy.

DK Croatia Cover

Zadar’s Roman past

Get lost amongst the lanes
However, centuries before the Venetians ruled the streets of Zadar, the Romans left their lasting footprint too. The Roman Emperor Augustus founded the forum site in the 3rd century.
The ruins of the Roman Forum in front of St Mary’s Church, Zadar, with just small sections of the stone columns remaining
St Mary’s Church and forum
And personally, nothing speaks to me more about the ancient Romans than a historic Forum and a city with a symmetrical street plan. The Roman’s distinct influences create such a significant imprint across any town or city.
The Roman ‘Pillar of Shame’ in the Roman Forum of Zadar, with the Venetian Bell Tower in the background
The Roman Column
The streets are paved with large oblong flagstones throughout Zadar's narrow lanes and stunning squares. Over the centuries, the passageways have become polished and worn with years of folk passing through, “what stories could these lanes tell.”
A cobbled lane between five-storey homes that leads towards Zadar's old Sea Gate
Towards Sea Gate
A narrow cobbled lane, lined with shops selling tourist wares in old town zadar, croatia
'The lanes'

Zadar’s medieval walls

Stepping back in time
With the warming sun now breaking through the Croatian clouds, we amble along the port side of Zadar. Along here remains a large section of the imposing 16th/17th-century city walls and the Great Arsenal.
The rebuilt stone city walls around the old town zadar, croatia
The City Walls
Wandering around the medieval city walls on the side of the Adriatic Sea, very little can be seen of the ramparts. Although in search of this, we arrive back at the Greeting to the Sun and the Sea Organ, which we’ll be returning to later when the Croatian sun has gone down.
The venetian detail on the city walls near the Foša harbor in Zadar, Croatia
The City Walls next to the sea

Zadar’s Byzantine influences

St Donatus Church
Every corner you turn in Zadar, there is something beautiful to admire. As we stroll through the centre of the city, we are greeted with the astonishing cylindrical stone church of St Donatus.
The circular church of St Donatus in Zadar, next to the ruins of the Roman forum, with the Venetian style bell tower in the background.
St Donatus
The extraordinary domed church stands very prominent in the centre of Zadar, overlooking the Roman Forum. Church of St Donatus is an unusual Byzantine church and was built in the pre-Romanesque style during the 9th century.
inside st donatus church in zadar croatia, looking up at its wooden dome
Inside St Donatus
Looking up at the thick stone columns inside st donatus church in zadar croatia,
Looking up Inside St Donatus
Although the church has ceased to be a place of worship since 1798, for the last fifty years’ musical performances, have been staged here. The acoustics inside the vaulted rotunda are incredible.

Visiting Croatia

For further advice on visiting Croatia, head to the official tourism website Croatia – Full of Life.

Zadar’s magnificent Land Gate

Strolling the tranquil marina
We continue to discover the delights of Zadar and our trail now leads us along towards the Land Gate, another ancient entrance to the city at the southern tip of the peninsula.
The magnificent venetian, renaissance, land gate near the Foša harbor in Zadar, Croatia
The Land Gate
We look back at the breathtaking architectural entrance as we step through the historic Land Gate and outside the city walls.
Two white sailing boats mooring in the small picturesque port of Fosa in Zadar.
The quiet harbour
I must admit that once we were through the gate, what did take me by surprise was the quaint, picturesque harbour at our feet. As we wandered around Foša harbour, it was awash with shoals of tiny fish glistening in the crystal-clear waters. The delightful little marina was chocker with boats bobbing up and down.
Overlooking the Foša harbour, from the Queen Jelena Madijevka Park, by the Land Gate in Zadar, Croatia
Looking down on the harbour

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Five Wells and Captains Tower

Time for lunch
We amble back within Zadar’s medieval city walls, and we head up to Five Wells Square, where there are, of course, five ancient wells.
A large open area around Trg Petra Zoranića in the old town of Zadar
Exploring the Old Town

The Five Wells Square was built during the siege of the Ottoman Empire army in 1574. The five decorative wellheads were constructed above a large drinking water cistern.

The Captain’s Tower is located next to the five wells, which stands 26 metres tall.

Five wells square, with the five wells in a row with the captain's tower, a pentagonal shape defensive structure during the ottoman period.
Five Wells and the Captains Tower

We were now feeling peckish, and it was time for lunch, so we stepped down into the charming Petar Zoranić Square with its towering lonesome Roman column in search of a bite to eat.

We instantly spotted a welcoming restaurant Konoba Skoblar, serving traditional Croatian cuisine.

An ink-black cuttlefish risotto, topped with a green salad leaf, and a bright red tomato
Cuttlefish risotto
Yes, it was time to refuel, and the cuttlefish risotto was crying out to Gary, and the fish skewers to me.
A fish skewer served with potatoes & greens, a light salad on a white rectangular plate.
Fish skewer
And, of course, as the car was parked up safe and sound for the day, we washed our delicious food down with a carafe of inexpensive local white wine.

Zadar, the relaxing mini-break

Perfect in size

After lunch, we continue our amble back towards People's Square. As the name indicates, it is quite a focal point in the town for visitors and locals to meet and socialise.

This charming square was bustling day and night.

Families sitting at tables under parasols in People’s Square in the old town of Zadar
People’s square

 As with most ancient cities, when you first step within the historic walls, they often feel like a bit of a maze, and the Old Town of Zadar was no different.

However, after spending a few hours mooching around, you become somewhat familiar with the captivating lanes. We found that the petite city of Zadar was perfect in size.

Holding a freshly scooped gelato in the shadow of the Venetian Bell Tower in the old town of Zadar.
Mmmm - Ice cream

Did you know

If you fancy a pastry late at night, we noticed bakers open until at least 11pm – very strange.

Zadar’s enchanting Riva

An evening stroll by the Sea Organ
After a brief rest back at our apartment, we head back into Zadar’s Old Town en-route to the Sea Organ. It is so enchanting along the Riva of an evening, and who knows when we will be back again to soak up the captivating atmosphere.
The Sea Organ, hidden under Zadar’s Riva at dusk, after the sun has set, but there is still blue light. Shallow steps lead down to the waters of the Adriatic Sea lapping against the edge.
By the sea at dusk
However, when we reach People's Square, we become slightly distracted and head back to Five Wells Square and the Land Gate. Foša harbour looks incredibly pretty of an evening, and the city walls are illuminated, so we scoot around the walls and walk the entire length of the Riva to the Sea Organ.
People gather around the ‘Greeting to the Sun’ light display at Zadar’s Riva at dusk. They are illuminated by the LED floor tiles that make up this open-air art installation.
Greeting to the Sun

As you would expect, the Sea Organ attracts an audience, and just like others, we sit and listen to its mesmerising sound. A few crowds also gather around The Greeting to the Sun and watch the lights dancing across the promenade.

It's such a pleasure to sit back and admire the sun descending and everyone enjoying the evening. Gradually as your eyes begin to adjust to the fading light, it’s astonishing how clear the night skies are. We clearly managed to spot the Plough constellation.

Individuals and couples on the zadar’s riva at dusk, listening to the sea organs as the adriatic sea laps against the edge.
Entranced by the Sea Organ

It was time to seek out a restaurant for the evening, and we were drawn to the bustling lanes we had strolled along the previous night. We chose the restaurant 4 Kantuna, which had a lively atmosphere and captivating aromas as we wandered past.

Gary opted for a Pag Island cheese starter and then a truffle pizza; our prior research didn’t identify that truffle was so popular in Croatia, nor so reasonable. I went for the pork medallions, and washed our dinner down with a light-bodied Croatian red wine.

Our next destination is Trogir.
Featured image for “The Historic Walled City of Trogir, Croatia”
Oct. 23, 2017

The Historic Walled City of Trogir, Croatia

Where to stay in Zadar

The perfect apartment
While visiting Zadar we chose to stay in an apartment, mainly for its convenience and the flexibility it offered. Its location was perfect for us, just outside of the old town and a 5-minute walk to the pedestrian bridge. The apartment we chose is no longer available; however, Apartman Cruiser is very similar.
A silhouetted skyline of Zadar, Croatia, against a golden sunset from our apartment building.
Sunset from the apartment
The apartment was very well equipped; I really couldn't fault it at all; it also had parking in a secure underground car park.
a bronze statue of a bearded sailor at the helm of a ship holding the ship's wheel in a park in zadar, croatia with trees and bushes in the background.
Tribute to the sailors
Personally, if I were staying for longer in the region, I would use this location as a base for exploring, as not only have you got Zadar on your doorstep, but you also have the option of self-catering.

Our video of Zadar

We have created a little YouTube video of Zadar.  Why not take a look?

Also, why not subscribe to our YouTube channel and get the latest clips as we post them?

Have you visited Zadar

What did you love about your trip to the magnificent coastal city of Zadar?

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  1. Reply

    I haven’t been to Croatia, but Zadar looks like a really interesting city. Love the harbor and historical sites!

    1. Reply

      This was our first time to Croatia and we highly recommend it. There is so much history throughout the country, particularly the Venetian influence.Touring down the Adriatic coast was fantastic, so many little bays and inlets with crystal clear waters.Zadar was great; great food, great location and an excellent base to visit the lakes at Plitvice & Krka, Šibenik or just go Island hopping. We’ve a feeling we’ll be back one day.If you get the chance to go, you must jump at it.Happy TravelsJanis & Gary

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