by Janis / 2 comments - Orginally published:17th September 2024
A perfect mini break in England’s smallest city
The ancient city of Wells in the beautiful county of Somerset is nestled in southwest England on the edge of the Mendip Hills. Wells truly is a delightful location to enjoy a relaxing, cultural mini break, we fell in love with it immediately.
Wells is a perfect place to visit throughout all seasons of the year, and for fans of the movie Hot Fuzz, it is a must to explore. The historic centre has comical references to the film throughout, which will bring a smile to your face.
Wells is exceptionally picturesque and historic and often floats beneath the radar of many visitors. Regularly, Wells is overlooked by travellers seeking out the Roman city of Bath or the vibrant streets of Bristol; however, for a compact city break, Wells is ideal.
The cathedral city of Wells is easily navigated on foot, with many of its heritage sights and landmarks just a short stroll from Market Place
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So, let’s head off and explore the enchanting streets of Wells.
Where is Wells?
How to get to Wells
- By Car
The most favoured mode of transport to Wells is by car, mainly because there are no mainline railway stations. The main motorway routes into Wells are the A39, A371, and the A303.
- By Coach
You can travel to Wells via National Express and Berrys Coaches, which offers a direct service from London.
- By Train
There are no direct train services to Wells; however, there are frequent bus services from nearby towns and cities.
- By air
The closest airport to Wells is Bristol Airport. From here, it is easy to hire a car from Rental Cars, and you’ll be in Wells in just over 30 minutes.
A brief history of Wells
Well, well, wellThe city of Wells was once a Roman settlement; however, it became prominent during the Anglo-Saxon era when King Ine of Wessex founded the Minster church in 704.
The wells at Wells
Wells gained its city status during medieval times when the magnificent cathedral was constructed in 1175. Today, Wells boasts of being England’s smallest city, although the City of London also makes a similar claim. But hey, who wants to be second after all.
The name Wells is derived from the three wells within the ancient city. One well is in the Market Place, and two are within the grounds of the Bishop’s Palace. They are dedicated to Saint Andrew.
Wells Cathedral
The present-day cathedral and the Bishop’s Palace were built during the 13th century; the palace is still the residence of the current bishop of Bath and Wells.
Wells Cathedral School was founded in 909 and is one of five UK schools for the musically talented; Wells was also listed in the Domesday Book of 1086.
Exploring the city of Wells
History at your feetWells is perfect for a laid-back, hassle-free city break, it is incredibly easy to explore on foot and extremely compact, which isn’t surprising for England’s smallest city. However, what it lacks in stature is made up tenfold in charm and friendliness.
I can honestly say it was an absolute delight visiting Wells, and we wouldn’t hesitate to return again. There’s a treat to be found around every historic corner.
View of Wells Cathedral from The Swan Hotel
We stayed in the Swan Hotel along Sadler Street, which was just a hop, skip, and a jump from Market Place. It also had stunning views across to Wells Cathedral and the Close.
We started our tour of Wells from the iconic Market Place. It’s so quaint that it’ll undoubtedly bring a smile to your face. It feels like you’re in an open-air street museum. Alongside the picturesque square are independent cafés and boutiques, tumbling flower displays, historic inns, and ancient architecture.
Wells, Market Place
Wells Market Cross and Fountain are at the bottom of the pedestrianised Market Place. This eye-catching fountain was built in 1797 and replaced Bishop Beckynton’s earlier water conduit, which had supplied the marketplace with water since the 15th century.
The water in the fountain is supplied by a gravity-fed pump from the wells within the Bishop’s Palace. Mind your footing as you step over the water gullies that gurgle through Market Place and High Street.
Wells Market Cross and Fountain
Water gully through Wells Market Place
Strolling up through Market Place is enchanting; it’s lovely to see places that are loved and preserved in this way. The Crown at Wells is quite a focal point in the square and is believed to have been built around 1450 and were originally houses.
The Crown Inn has a fascinating history. It was a bar at The Crown Coaching Inn and a separate inn for The Royal Oak. In the 1930s, it was converted into a hotel, and during market days, up to 70 horses were stabled at the rear of the building.
The Crown, Wells
During WWII, it was a temporary home for troops returning from conflicts; after recuperation, they were sent off to fight once again. In 1993, The Crown was in receivership and boarded up; thanks to a local couple, they purchased the inn and made it into a welcoming pub for all to enjoy.
You may recognise the exterior of The Crown, as it was used in the movie Hot Fuzz, directed by Edgar Wright, who was educated in Wells.
Where to stay in Wells
The Swan Hotel
This charming 15th-century coaching inn is located in the beating heart of Wells. It has plenty of character and friendly staff.
Onsite parking is available and complimentary, although limited. We have a large EV and were able to charge it overnight for free.
White Hart Hotel
This 15th-century inn is located just a two-minute walk from Wells’s famous cathedral and the Bishop’s Palace. It offers a friendly welcome, and if you enjoy local ales, you’ll love this place.
More to discover in Wells Market Place
Literally a movie setWe now amble up to the far end of Market Place, and the history and architecture are stunning. Along with some characterful shops, you must try Roly’s Fudge Pantry. It is delicious; we couldn’t resist.
Penniless Porch & Bishop’s Eye
You can while away hours around the market square, just sitting and watching the world pass by while enjoying a scrumptious cake and a coffee.
The two archways you are greeted with at the top of the square are the Penniless Porch and the Bishop’s Eye, which form entrances into the walled precinct of the Cathedral and Bishop’s Palace. The Penniless Porch on the left was erected around 1450 by the Bishop of Beckynton, a city benefactor. Here, beggars used to ask for alms.
Penniless Porch
Bishop’s Eye
The historic Bishop’s Eye on the right was built around 1450 and is the entrance gate to the Bishop’s Palace. The three-storey tower has a copper roof and grand timber gates, which were added in the 18th century. Both of these gates are beautiful and so iconic to Wells.
Wells Town Hall
Market Place is laid out in a dogleg design, with the Neoclassical Wells Town Hall at the top right. The attractive town hall, which you can admire today, was built in 1779 to replace the previous civic building of 1548.
Wednesday market in Wells
The Grade II-listed building's charming porch and arcade were added in 1861, and they are a perfect backdrop to the weekly markets held in the market square.
Wells market day
Wells was granted a market charter by Bishop Robert and has been holding regular markets for over 800 years. Today, the bustling market in Wells is held on Wednesdays and Saturdays and offers local goods and fresh produce. The Wednesday market also includes a farmers’ market, where delicious goodies can be found.
If you're intrigued to visit the beautiful city of Wells and the county of Somerset, then why not check out The Rough Guide to Bath, Bristol & Somerset. Full of helpful advice, interesting facts and time-saving tips.
You can pick it up for your Kindle or in good old paperback.
Visiting Wells Cathedral
A sight to beholdWells Cathedral is magnificent and one of the loveliest churches I’ve visited in the UK. The sweeping Cathedral Close at its feet is just the beginning of the splendour you’ll witness inside.
External view of Wells Cathedral
The Cathedral Church of St Andrew was built in 1175 as a Roman Catholic cathedral. It was erected on the same site as the previous church of 705. When King Henry VIII parted from acrimoniously Rome, Wells Cathedral became an Anglican Cathedral and luckily escaped destruction from the Dissolution of the Monasteries.
The Gothic façade on the cathedral's west front is stunning, and the details are incredibly intricate, especially the 300 sculptured figures.
The nave of Wells Cathedral
The Scissor Arches in Wells Cathedral
As soon as you enter the central nave of Wells Cathedral, it is a sight to behold. Your eyes are immediately drawn to the Scissor Arches in the centre of the cathedral. It’s the simplicity of the sweeping stone lines that are breathtaking.
At first glance, you would believe that arches are a modern design; however, these striking medieval arcs were built between 1338 and 1348 to prevent the tower foundations from sinking.
Astronomical clock in Wells Cathedral
Another unique feature of Wells Cathedral is the astronomical clock. The medieval clock, circa 1390, is one of the oldest clock faces in the world. On the quarter hour, when the bell chimes, you can watch jousting knights rotate around above the clock face.
Just beyond the astronomical clock is the Chapter House and one place not to be missed. The sea of stone steps that guide you up to the Chapter House have borne the weight of footsteps since 1306. This stunning octagonal tower is where the local clergy would congregate to discuss cathedral business.
The steps leading up to the Chapter House
Inside the Chapter House
Before you leave Wells Cathedral, ensure you visit the ancient library, which was built during the 13th and 14th centuries. You’re able to see and inhale the waft of historic leather books which are kept in the chained library.
Additionally, stroll amongst the tranquil cloisters and explore the cathedral gardens.
If you’re visiting Wells for the day, take advantage of purchasing a joint day ticket to Wells Cathedral and The Bishop’s Palace and Gardens.
Wells Tourist Information
If you’re tempted to Visit Wells, the local tourist office provides some extremely useful information and handy pointers for around the city. They can be found at the Wells Town Hall, Market Place.
Exploring Wells Cathedral Green
Strolling Vicars’ CloseDuring our two-day visit to Wells, I couldn’t stop returning to the Cathedral Green. It was such a beautiful area of the city, and sitting by the majestic cathedral as the sun gradually set was glorious.
Cathedral Green
All around Cathedral Close are lovely historic buildings, one of which is Brown’s Gatehouse, built in 1451, also known as Dean’s Eye. It is one of the three ancient gates that once protected the walled precinct of the Cathedral; the other two are Penniless Porch and Bishop’s Eye.
Brown’s Gatehouse at night
Harry Patch memorial
As we wander to the left of the cathedral along Cathedral Green here is the Wells & Mendip Museum, the Wells Cathedral Music School, and also a touching memorial to Harry Patch.
Harry Patch was known as “the Last Fighting Tommy”, he was the last surviving trench combat soldier of the First World War from any country when he died on 25th July 2009 at the age of 111 years and 38 days.
Chain Gate
Strolling further along, we arrive at Chain Gate, which straddles Cathedral Green. The Chain Gate links the top of the Chapter House in Wells Cathedral over to the opposite street and allows private access to the Vicars’ Close below.
Through the archway of Vicars’ Close
When you wander into Vicars’ Close, you will find it picture-postcard perfect. This 15th century residential Street is Europe’s oldest purely residential street, with its original buildings intact. There are 27 residences, all Grade I listed buildings that appear to be mirror images of each other.
When the chantry priest’s homes were originally built between 1348 and 1430, there were 44 cottages. The Vicars' Chapel and library are at the far end of the 460 feet close (140m).
Vicars’ Close facing Wells Cathedral
The quadrangle appears longer than it is; the false perspective is achieved by building the houses at the upper northern end nearest the chapel 9 feet (2.7 m) closer together than those at the lower southern end.
A large restoration project will soon be underway to continue to preserve and maintain this incredible slice of Wells’ history.
Hiking the Somerset Countryside
Wells is located in the lush county of Somerset and nestled on the edge of the Mendip Hills. This region of England is perfect for hikes. Head off and discover Wookey Hole Caves and the Cheddar Gorge. To explore 28 delightful walks in this region, you’ll want the Ordnance Survey Somerset and the Mendips Pathfinder guidebook no. 76.
Alternatively, why not purchase and download the OS Maps App, which covers all of Great Britain.
Exploring The Bishop’s Palace
Eight centuries of historyThe medieval Bishop’s Palace and Gardens are set within 14 acres of stunning scenery. The palace’s construction began in 1210 adjacent to Wells Cathedral; the chapel and Great Hall were added towards the end of the 13th century.
Gatehouse and Bishop’s Palace
During the 14th century the outer walls, Gatehouse and the beautiful moat were added to the Palace. Then, the Bishop of Beckynton, who installed the water conduit in Market Place, added the Bishop’s House in the 15th century, which can still be visited today. Unfortunately, the Great Hall fell into disrepair around 1830, but now it adds a magnificent backdrop to the palace gardens.
Moat around Bishop’s Palace
You’re able to stroll up to the Gatehouse, which has a portcullis and drawbridge and wander around the moat free of charge. Hopefully, you’ll spot the family of swans swimming gracefully around the moat.
These beautiful swans have been trained to ring the Gatehouse bell for food. By pulling on the rope at the gatehouse window, the bell would chime as a cue for some tucker.
Swan in Bishop’s Palace, Wells
The first swans were trained by one of Bishop Hervey’s daughters in the 1870s. The swan image has now become quite an icon in Wells and can be seen dotted throughout the city.
Bishop’s Palace & Chapel
Armed with our Bishop’s Palace tickets, we stroll around the sweeping lawn and enter the Palace, built by Bishop Jocelin in 1210. Over the following 800 years of successive bishops, they have all left their mark.
Strolling around the palace, you gain an understanding of how the bishops lived in medieval times and how they used the striking rooms to demonstrate their political power and, often, their wealth.
The Undercroft in the Bishop’s Palace
There’s a fascinating video on the ground floor of the palace that visually takes you on an aerial journey and timeline of the palace. Watch how the palace and gardens evolved, and elements declined over the centuries to where we are today.
The Long Gallery in the Bishop’s Palace
The Bishop Palaces chapel
We stroll around the medieval vaulted Undercroft with historic flagstone floors and then continue up the charming staircase to the striking Long Gallery where you can see the portraits of past bishops.
These elaborate and ornate rooms were used by the bishops for entertaining, and the simpler rooms were where the bishops would have worked and slept. Today, fascinating artefacts and exhibitions detail the role of the palace through the centuries.
Ensure you don’t miss a visit to the Episcopal Chapel, which was built between 1275 and 1292 by Bishop Burnell.
The ruins of the Great Hall
We venture back outside to explore the RHS partner gardens and the ramparts and discover the history behind the Mendip wells.
The Great Hall was also built by Bishop Burnell and now stands as ruins in the beautiful gardens. Even though only the four corner turrets and two walls survive, you can imagine the Great Hall's vast scale reflecting the power that the bishops held within the region.
Bishop’s Palace Gardens
The 14 acres of gardens within the ramparts of the palace are delightful and so tranquil to amble around. The gardens are kept beautifully by the meticulous team of gardeners and offer a peaceful haven to escape from day-to-day life.
It’s time to find the little doorway through the palace walls and cross the moat to discover Wells’s namesake.
Saint Andrew’s Spring, or the well from which the city takes its name, creates the delightful ponds and water pools in the garden and feeds the enchanting moat that encircles the palace.
Saint Andrew’s Spring
The spring flows from the Mendip Hills and resurfaces in the wells at Bishop’s Palace. The water flows at a rate of 180 litres per second into the moat. The weather was very drizzly when we visited, so we were unable to see the bubbles emerging from the base of the pool.
Our video of Wells
We have created a little YouTube video of Wells. Why not take a look?
Also, why not subscribe to our YouTube channel and get the latest clips as we post them?
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Hello,you two,
Allwell your side I hope.
On a quiet moment we looked at your brilliant write up and pictures of Wells.,A great piece to eat anyone’s appetite.
We are on the way home now having been on a 12 day cruise around Japan and on the way back, 8:days in Pondicherry, Tamil Nadu. It sounds nuts , but it is a gastronomic wonder. Excellent restaurants.
However the contrast between Japan and India is 6,000 %
Taxi coming soon. A 3 hour trip to Chennai Airport for the huge cost of 35 quid ( and it’s a CRV ), The a flight to Addis Ababa ( 6 hour ) leaving at 2:00 in the morning. Change in Addis for Harare ( 4 hours ) into the arms of Rory to pick us up. We will be bushed.
Love to you both and give our salaams to Barb and Pete
Wow, that sounds like a fantastic trip. I can’t wait to hear more about it when we see you next.
Yes, Wells is a beautiful little city; we’d never visited it before, so it was a lovely surprise. We then went on to Salisbury for a couple of days, another pretty cathedral city.
Take care
Janis & Gary