by Janis / 4 comments - Orginally published:4th September 2017

Don’t get caught by the tide…

The magnificent and ancient monastic abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel lies around one kilometre off the southwestern reaches of France’s Normandy coastline. It is just a mere 3 miles (5kms) from the border of Brittany.

Mont-Saint-Michel truly is a sight to behold and, understandably, one of France’s most visited and iconic landmarks after the Eiffel Tower. During this Normandy road trip, we based ourselves at Rouen, Caen, Alençon and Honfleur.

Take a peek at our full itinerary for this Normandy road trip.

When I first caught sight of Mont-Saint-Michel, I was lost for words. It was one of those ‘wow’ moments, and the closer I got, the more spectacular the tidal island was. It really needs to be seen to be believed.

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Mont-Saint-Michel has been one of Europe’s foremost pilgrimage destinations for centuries. We were standing at the top of the holy island looking out across the breathtaking sandy bay, and we spotted pilgrims emerging from the distance heading towards the abbey; it was quite moving to see.

Where is Mont-Saint-Michel?

How to get to Mont-Saint-Michel

- By Car
Departing from the UK to France, there are various options. You can either jump on Le Shuttle and arrive in Calais in 35 minutes or enjoy a leisurely cruise on the open waves with DFDS or P&O. Alternatively, you can head down to the south coast of England and catch Brittany Ferry directly to Normandy.

- By Air
If you’re flying into France, search for your flights in one easy place with Booking.com. This reliable travel search engine will scan for your favoured routes and chosen dates. Pre-book your hire car from Rental Cars, and your adventure begins.

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A Brief History of Mont-Saint-Michel

It was born from a higher spirit
The creation of a Christian pilgrimage site on the rocky tidal island of Mont-Saint-Michel dates back to the early 8th century. Legend has it that Aubert of Avranches, the bishop from the nearby hilltop town of Avranches, declared that the Archangel Michael himself had appeared and compelled the bishop to build a church atop the rocky islet.
A close-up shot of Mont-Saint-Michel from the causeway.
Close up to Mont-Saint-Michel
Throughout the Middle Ages, incredible monastic buildings were added to the Benedictine Abbey, and Mont-Saint-Michel became renowned around Europe. A depiction of the monastic abbey can be seen on the Bayeux tapestry.
Birds circle the spire of the Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey, high on the hill, as the skies darken.
Birds circling below the abbey

The solid ramparts surrounding the base of Mont-Saint-Michel were built to keep the English forces out, which were successful as the English attempted to besiege the island twice during the Hundred Years’ War.

There are many other stunning and intriguing buildings that line the cobbled streets leading up the steep climb to the abbey. Some are now cafés, museums and shops.

We love visiting France and each region so different from one another. I find the DK Eyewitness Guides really helpful in planning a trip and so often find interesting little snippets of info.

Take a peek at this revised Top 10 Pocket Travel Guide and see what you can discover.

DK Normandy Cover

Our visit to Mont-Saint-Michel in 2008

Roll forward to today
When we were embarking on a road trip around France in 2008, Gary and I briefly stopped at Mont-Saint-Michel. Unfortunately, on that occasion, we didn’t have enough time to fully visit the abbey. Still, we knew we wanted to return one day.
A view of Mont-Saint-Michel from our visit in 2008 before work was undertaken to improve the causeway.
Mont Saint-Michel in 2008

However, things were a little different in 2008 and viewing Mont-Saint-Michel from the roadside was easy. We just drove up to the bay, parked by the causeway and went for a stroll towards the abbey to truly appreciate its magnificence.

After all, Mont-Saint-Michel has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1979.

A shot of the wide, paved, causeway to the island of Mont-Saint-Michel , Normandy
The causeway to Mont-Saint-Michel

Nine years later, we thought we would take a similar approach when visiting Mont-Saint-Michel …..oh, definitely not; gone are the days whereby you just park up nearby and wander along the causeway.

It’s now park and ride or park and jump on a horse and cart – your choice, although you pay for the horse and cart ride.

The service isn’t too bad, and the buses are pretty frequent, although a bit of jostling does happen. But anyway, it drops you about 400 yards from the entrance.

Where to stay in Mont-Saint-Michel

 Mercure Mont Saint Michel

The Mercure Mont Saint Michel is a clean and friendly hotel located in parkland just 2 km from the beautiful abbey of Mont Saint Michel.

It offers spacious en suite rooms, a restaurant and bar and plenty of free on-site parking. Just outside the hotel is the stop for the shuttle bus to take you to the abbey,

Alternatively, pop your dates in the Booking.com search box and discover further options for all budgets.

Our Tip

Take a supply of water, you’ll need it, and it’s a little pricey beyond the ramparts.

Exploring the Grande Rue

Bustling cobbled streets

As we headed towards the architectural marvel of le Mont-Saint-Michel, the Benedictine Abbey, perched high above us, looked incredible. It appeared that we had chosen a busy day, as groups of pilgrims were making their final steps before entering the abbey for a scheduled service.

Even without the pilgrimages, I think it would have been busy, as this captivating rocky atoll attracts over 3 million visitors a year.

a busy grande rue, discover mont-saint-michel, explore normandy, historic france, iconic normandy, places to visit in france, visit normandy
A busy Grande Rue

It was rather crowded when we entered Mont-Saint-Michel; however, the narrow medieval “Grande Rue” is still quite intriguing to explore. The cobbled lanes are full of quaint shops selling medieval weapons (handy if you want to pick up a crossbow or a battle-axe), and some lovely cafes and restaurants are dotted along the street.

As we manoeuvred our way up through the lanes, we caught glimpses of the stunning landscape beyond. However, this is nothing compared to what we will see from the top of the island.

Normandy Tourist Information

If you’re tempted to visit Normandy, take a peek at the official Normandy Tourism website. The local tourist offices provide some extremely useful information and handy pointers for around the region.

Climbing up towards the abbey

Excusez-Moi
We began ascending further towards the abbey, and as it got narrower, it appeared to get busier. However, the groups on a pilgrimage started to gather together near the abbey entrance, and we all came to a standstill.
Further up Grand Rue, lined on one side by a massive stone wall as we head up towards the Abbey at the top of Mont-Saint-Michel.
The walk up Grande Degre
At the top of Mont-Saint-Michel a close-up of the spire of the Abbey.
The Gilded copper

This is where a little bit more knowledge of the French language would have been beneficial. As non-pilgrims should have headed straight inside to join the next queue for a ticket, yes, another queue, but actually, this one wasn’t too bad.

We bought our ticket, and we were on our way to the top.

Your choice

Mont-Saint-Michel is free to stroll around and admire the views, but in my opinion, it is worth the fee to visit the Benedictine Abbey.

The view from Mont-Saint-Michel

Looking down upon the birds
Armed with our tickets rather than our longbow, we were in. We continued to climb to the peak of Mont-Saint-Michel, and when we arrived at the top of the west terrace, the views across the open landscape were breathtaking.
The view of the causeway, and the sandy shores, from the top of Mont-Saint-Michel
A view over the causeway
The tide was a long way out when we visited the abbey, and you could see for miles across the open bay; it was an incredible sight to see. It was bizarre to see, but as we were so high, the birds were soaring through the sky below us.
The view of the sand that surrounds Mont-Saint-Michel when the tide is out.
A view from the Mont
Mass is held at Mont-Saint-Michel abbey every day except Monday at 12:00 pm and Sunday at 11:15 am. With the service just about to start, the clergy entered the abbey church, and we continued our tour of Mont-Saint-Michel.
The view of the sand that surrounds Mont-Saint-Michel when the tide is out.
Waiting for the sermon

Inside Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey

Architectural marvel
We wandered inside the church to listen to some of the sermons from the back; however, we felt like we were intruding slightly, so we continued our tour to visit other grand rooms and halls within the Benedictine Abbey.
The roof of the refectory inside the Abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel. The roof is lined with wood and is supported on either side by stone columns.
The Refectory
Inside the Great Hall, with its high vaulted ceiling, of Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey.
The Guests Hall
The colossal stone columns of the Great Pillared Crypt of Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey.
The Great Pillared Crypt
The ceiling in the Great Pillared Crypt of Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey.
The Ceiling in the Pillared Crypt
The giant, wooden, wheel, used for lifting goods from the lower levels of Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey.
The Wheel for hoisting provisions for the prisoners
The Knights Hall of Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey, with its numerous columns supporting a vaulted ceiling.
The Knights Hall
    This photo slider includes some shots taken en-route through the Benedictine Abbey. We navigated our way through the Refectory, the Guests Hall, the Great Pillared Crypt, and the Knights Hall. We also spotted a huge wooden wheel once used for hoisting provisions to prisoners during the French Revolution.

    Our video of Mont-Saint-Michel

    We have created a little YouTube video of Mont-Saint-Michel.  Why not take a look?

    Also, why not subscribe to our YouTube channel and get the latest clips as we post them?

    Heading back down the Ramparts

    A unique perspective
    Now that our Mont-Saint-Michel abbey tour was complete, we decided to stroll back down via the ramparts and enjoy the stunning views across the bay. As Mont-Saint-Michel is a tidal island, it truly feels like a special place with an air of peace and calm.
    A cast-iron cannon, mounted on a wooden block, as a defensive measure to protect Mont-Saint-Michel
    Defensive Cannon
    A polished brass and stainless steel telescope to take in the views around Mont-Saint-Michel.
    Enjoy the view
    The ramparts at Mont Saint-Michel are a remarkable example of medieval military defensive architecture. Built between the 12th and 14th centuries, they played a fundamental role in protecting the village and the abbey from attacks, particularly during the Hundred Years' War.
    The walkway around the ramparts of Mont-Saint-Michel, an alternative to the Grand Rue.
    Along the Ramparts
    The walk back down was fantastic as it allowed you more time to appreciate this wonder, looking over the bay, back up to the magnificent abbey, and across the medieval rooftops.
    A quiet section of Mont-Saint-Michel as you head along the town's ramparts.
    Where were the crowds?
    The ramparts consist of curtain walls flanked by semicircular towers, mainly located on the south and east sides of the rock. They are a testament to the ingenuity and skill of medieval engineers.

    Rue or Ramparts?

    We chose to take the Grande Rue up and the ramparts down; we found it gave us a better opportunity to admire the views.

    St Michael’s Mount

    A quieter route
    I must admit Mont-Saint-Michel really is remarkable to see, and it makes you grateful for the time and effort that’s invested in preserving these wonderful landmarks.
    Looking up to the abbey on top of Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey from the lower levels.
    Abbey and Rooftops
    From our experience, strolling the ramparts of Mont Saint-Michel was an integral part of our visit experience. It offered a unique perspective of the island, the picturesque village below, and the Normandy coast tidal flats.
    The French Tricolor flag flying high over the ramparts of Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey.
    The Tower and the flag
    The view down from the ramparts to the tower gateway into the Grand Rue of Mont-Saint-Michel.
    Looking down on Grande Rue
    I honestly think it was just bad timing on our part when we arrived at Mont-Saint-Michel, as it was much quieter when wandering back along the historic walls. It may have also been that the daily service was also about to take place.

    Crit'Air vignette required for driving in France

    If you’re heading to France from the UK with your own vehicle, you’ll need a Crit’Air ‘clean air’ car sticker.

    Just like our low-emission zones in the UK, France now legally requires the display of a Crit’Air vignette. The good news is, these stickers are readily available and affordable online through the official French government website.

    The Crit’Air sticker lasts the lifetime of the vehicle, so it’s a one-off purchase. The RAC website offers an in-depth guide to everything you need to know and your requirements.

    St Michael’s Mount

    Mount’s Bay, Cornwall

    Way back in 2002, Gary and I visited Mont-Saint-Michel’s little brother in the southwest of the UK, St Michael’s Mount in Cornwall, another unique tidal islet.

    The island is connected to the mainland town of Marazion by a causeway. It is only passable during low tide, making the island accessible by foot for a few hours each day.

    A view of Saint Michael's Mount in Cornwall from 2002.
    St Michaels Mount, Cornwall

    St Michael’s Mount is topped with a medieval castle and church, which has been home to the St Aubyn family since the 17th century.

    The castle offers a fascinating glimpse into the island's history, with its fortifications, chapel, and stunning views of the surrounding coastline.

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    1. Reply

      Gorgeous pics! I’ve been to Le Mont Saint-Michel a couple of times and each time, it was a treat. We lucked out with the crowds.

      1. Reply

        Thanks very much, yes it certainly is a lovely place, particularly wandering around the ramparts. It’d be lovely in the evening after the crowds have gone.

    2. Reply

      Love Mont Saint Michel, we visited last year and stayed within walking distance so we could visit at our leisure. Laurence got some great photos there and we were very lucky with the weather. Yes, definitely worth going inside and seeing the inside of the abbey! We were actually just in Normandy again over the weekend 😉

      1. Reply

        Jessica,

        That sounds so cool, where did you stay? We think next time we’d like to stay close by because getting some shots first thing, or later at night would be great.

        Where can we see Laurence’s shots from the visit? We’ve had a quick peek on your site, but we may have missed them (Saw that you’d also been along the canal Saint Martin in Paris though, we did that in our pre-blogging life)

        Where in Normandy did you visit over the weekend? We love the region, and know we’ll be back sometime..

        Janis & Gary

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