by Janis / 0 comments - Orginally published:28th August 2017

A poignant time for reflection

One of the reasons Gary and I wanted to return to Normandy was to visit the D-Day Landing Beaches of Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword and pay our respects along the way.

Each year, we are reminded of the events of June 6, 1944. While there may be fewer veterans of that pivotal moment of World War II, it does not make the experience any less poignant.

For those who have seen the opening sequences of Steven Spielberg's classic 'Saving Private Ryan' and perhaps think it was just Hollywood excess, watch the documentary footage captured at the time. It really was that harrowing.

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9 flagpoles, with 9 different allied flags fluttering in the wind at Courseulles-sur-Mer, overlooking 'Juno' beach in Normandy
Flags of the Allied powers, Juno Beach

Exploring Normandy on a road trip

We loved touring Normandy, and with so many historical locations to visit, it was perfect for a cultural French road trip. Our Normandy itinerary included stays at Rouen, Caen and Alençon.

Remember, as well as exploring the sites of the D-Day landings; there's so much more to explore, such as the beautiful harbour town of Honfleur, Monet's Giverny (Where the lily ponds are there to explore), the ruins of Jumièges Abbey, join the route du cidre and discover villages like Beuvron-en-Auge and, of course, the iconic Mont Saint-Michel.

If you don't have your own car, then why not take a peek at the offers at Rental Cars? They cover all budgets and allow you to pick up and drop off at different destinations.

The Heroes of World War Two

My Pop
My grandfather had been fighting in North Africa and Italy during the Second World War with the 8th Army. I am eternally grateful that my 'Pop' survived, but for him, as he got older, the memories became more painful.
A black and white picture of Pop posing in his uniform in the street somewhere
Pop in uniform
Stories of his recently made friends 'for life' from a Welsh battalion singing “Land of My Fathers” were unbelievably moving. Some thirty years later, I still remember exactly when and where we were sitting when he told us of the horrific atrocities that befell them.
Row upon row of the white portland stone headstones of the fallen Commonwealth Servicemen in the Bayeaux British military cemetery.
Peace at last - Bayeux Commonwealth Cemetery
We should never forget the immense sacrifices that the men and women from many nations laid down before us. Gary and I wanted to remember, and we wanted to be reminded.

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The start of the D-Day Landings

Pegasus Bridge

Our journey started at Pegasus Bridge which is to the east of the D-Day Landing Beaches.

This was where soldiers first set foot on Normandy soil, late on 5th to 6th June 1944 and where Operation Overlord began.

When we first visited Pegasus Bridge in 2007, we were free to wander around the bridge without visiting the Memorial Pegasus Museum. The original bridge now stands in the museum after being replaced in 1994.

Remembrance wreaths placed under the sign for the Pegasus Bridge in Normandy.
Monument to Pegasus Bridge

Bénouville Bridge was captured within 10 minutes by the 6th Airborne Division, and as a tribute to the British Troops, became known as Pegasus Bridge.

The museum starts inside, and as you wander amongst the exhibits, catching up on so many interesting facts and stories of how Operation Overlord unfolded.

The museum is very touching; there are some incredible personal stories told by young and old.

A stone monument in front of the now relocated Pegasus Bridge in Normandy.
Pegasus Bridge

Soon you are in the open air with Pegasus Bridge standing in full glory.

As mentioned, it was nearby here that the Allied troops first stepped on land at Normandy in the early hours of 6th June 1944. Pegasus Bridge straddled the Caen Canal, and it was vital that it was captured; it was within a matter of minutes that the area was taken.

A line of memorial plinths in front of the Pegasus Bridge in Normandy, France
Pegasus Bridge in its new home

What was very encouraging to see was the number of families here, parents ensuring that their children also learn and remember why we have the freedom we do today.

Allow yourself a couple of hours. Sure, you can fly around quicker, but there's plenty to see and take in.

How to get to Normandy

There are a couple of choices for getting to Normandy, but as we live only 40 minutes from Folkestone in Kent, Le Shuttle is our chosen route.

Alternatively, a perfect option would be crossing the English Channel with Brittany Ferries. Here, you have the choice of arriving in Caen, Le Havre or Cherbourg.

Where to stay in Caen

Our accommodation for the four nights in Caen was at the Hotel Restaurant Le Dauphin et Le Spa du Prieuré.

The Hotel Restaurant Le Dauphin et Le Spa du Prieuré in Caen is reasonably central and just a short stroll across to the charming Place Saint-Sauveur.

If you are driving, this hotel has free onsite parking, although the spaces are limited.

The first of the Normandy Beaches

Sword Beach

We visited the Memorial Pegasus Museum on our way into Caen. The following day we set out to tour the coastline. Travelling east to west our first "landing" stop was Sword Beach, north of Caen.

Sword Beach is one of the two beaches that mainly British Troops landed upon on 6th June 1944, prior to them capturing the nearby towns and villages close to Pegasus Bridge.

Caen itself was proven to be more of a stronghold.

An image of the memorial "La Flamme"; a large metal flame housed on top of a German bunker.
Monument at Sword Beach
A brass statue of the scottish soldier, and regimental piper, bill millin, playing bagpipes as he strides up sword beach in normandy. The plinth has a plaque at that reads 'thanks to our liberators' in both english and french
Statue to Piper Bill Millin

When you stand on the beach today, it’s incomprehensible what took place 80 years ago, young lads heading into the unknown.

It’s impossible to imagine the thoughts that were passing through the minds of the soldiers who descended onto these beaches. The impending assault was just moments away.

A memorial on Sword beach in Normandy. The stone monument flanked by two flag poles, the Union flag atop one, the French Tricolour the other.
Monument to the fallen - Sword Beach
The morning, we were there, it was a little murky but so peaceful. The beach was almost deserted, just a few locals going about their everyday business, walking their dogs, chatting to their friends, and I’m sure, occasionally reflecting on events gone by.
A grassy mound on the sandy beach, codenamed Sword during the D-Day Landing, in Normandy.
Sword Beach

We love visiting France and each region so different from one another. I find the DK Eyewitness Guides really helpful in planning a trip and so often find interesting little snippets of info.

Take a peek at this revised Top 10 Pocket Travel Guide and see what you can discover.

DK Normandy Cover

The Canadian section of the Normandy Beaches

Juno Beach

As we headed west along the Normandy coastline, there were memorials of remembrance all along the way and strong reminders of the past.

Hugging the shore as much as possible, passing through small towns, and we arrive at Juno Beach. Dotted along the beach, you’ll see evidence of past atrocities and touching personal tributes.

An artillery gun, mounted in a pillbox, at the edge of 'Juno' beach in Normandy.
A pill box - Juno beach

The invasion on Juno Beach was under Canadian leadership and was their first point of entry.

A very hard battle was fought here. Although the Canadians made incredible in-roads into France on D-Day, they suffered significant losses, with the Canadians losing 50% of their forces in the first hour of the assault.

The giant 'Cross of Lorraine' memorial on the edge of 'Juno' beach in Normandy.
The cross at Juno Beach

The sandy dunes that we stroll along today hold so many poignant stories, particularly for the 10 Platoon “B” Company, The Royal Winnipeg Rifles, as the bunker/pillbox that was captured by them was named after their Lt. W. A. “Cosy” Aitken.

Lt. W. A. “Cosy” Aitken’s namesake bunker can still be seen on the beach.

The edge of Cosy's Pillbox, on Juno Beach, Normandy with a view out to the sea on an overcast day.
Cosy's Bunker - Juno Beach
You must make a point of taking a stroll up to the memorial, passing the fluttering flags and look out across the seascape beyond.

Our journey

Our day trip from Caen took us all day, and we could have spent a lot more time along the route. The distance covered was around 135miles/215kms

The Mulberry Harbour on the Normandy Beaches

Gold Beach

As we continued our mini-road trip west, we arrived at Gold Beach, and this incredible bay stopped me in my tracks.

Gold Beach was the second beach to be used by British soldiers. What the troops achieved here in the Bay of Arromanches is astounding.

The shoreline and bay of Arromanches from on high. You can view, both on the beach, and out to sea, the remains of the 'temporary' mulberry harbour constructed for the D-Day landings.
The bay at Arromanches
We drove up to a high point that overlooked Arromanches Bay. I was amazed to see so much of the artificial Mulberry Harbour still holding solid in the sea after all these years.
The remains of the Mulberry Harbour, constructed for the Normandy D-Day landings, out at sea.
Remnants of the Mulberry harbour – Arromanches
Standing on the cliff above, we could see the magnitude of the artificial Mulberry harbour that was created in a 5-mile arc.
A barbed-wire fence in the foreground, on the cliff-face above the Arromanches shoreline, with remains of the Mulberry Harbour out at sea.
The Mulberry harbour – Arromanches

“Port Winston”, named after Winston Churchill, was preconstructed in the south of England and hauled across the English Channel and assembled in situ.

An incredible feat of engineering, and for Gary and I, one not to miss.

Did you know?

Even though it was temporary, it landed around -
250,000 men
500,000 vehicles
4,000,000 tonnes of supplies

Lest we forget

The Bayeux War Cemetery

Bayeux War Cemetery, founded by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission; this cemetery is the last resting place for over 4,000 soldiers.

Bayeux War Cemetery is France's largest Second World War Cemetery for Commonwealth Soldiers. Amongst the manicured graves are not only British troops but also Polish, Russian, Italian, Czech and French.

The 'Stone of Remembrance', with the 'Cross of Sacrifice' in the background, flanked on each side by headstones, at the Bayeux Commonwealth Military Cemetery in Normandy.
Their name liveth for evermore – Bayeux

We were amongst just a handful of people who were showing their respects, and the peacefulness was just occasionally broken by chirping birds.

Opposite the war cemetery is the Bayeux Memorial, which has over 1,800 names etched upon it and is dedicated to the soldiers with no known graves.

Rows of inscribed white headstones, punctuated with red roses, in the beautifully kept Bayeux Commonwealth Military Cemetery in Normandy.
Portland headstones at the cemetery in Bayeux

The age of these young men was astounding; so many lives were unlived. No matter their rank or background, all these soldiers lay side by side with their comrades.

Along with the Commonwealth soldiers, there are over 400 German headstones.

A headstone, in Bayeux Commonwealth Military Cemetery, to a Polish soldier, constructed of the same stone, but with a soft pointed top.
Polish and Russian Allies remembered – Bayeux
Two headstones, almost joined together, in Bayeux Commonwealth Military Cemetery, to aircrew from the Royal Australian Air Force who perished together.
An Aircrew - together – Bayeux
There was little fighting in the town of Bayeux; however, it was the first French town of importance to be liberated,

The main American Landing beach in Normandy

Omaha Beach
Omaha Landing Beach is doubtless one of the most poignant of the five Normandy beaches and holds a very memorable place in our history, particularly American history.
A view of the shoreline of 'Omaha' beach in Normandy, featuring a grassy mound, a thin strip of sand, and the ocean beyond.
The coastline at Omaha Beach
The troops that landed here suffered a relentless attack, all the while climbing the slopes of the French coastline. For the Allies to conquer Omaha Beach, they had to combat the cliff facing them, which exposed them immensely to the enemy.
The view of 'Omaha' beach from the Normandy American Cemetery
Omaha Beach
There was a huge loss of American life on Omaha Beach, and just above the shoreline overlooking the beach is an astonishing and touching cemetery dedicated to the loss of those American lives during WWII.

Our video of the D-Day Landing Beaches

We have created a little YouTube video of our look at the Normandy Beaches.  Why not take a look?

Also, why not subscribe to our YouTube channel and get the latest clips as we post them?

The second American Landing beach

Utah Beach
The most westerly of the five beaches is Utah Beach, and as we arrived, the sun started to shine, making it even more difficult for us to imagine what these guys met upon landing.
The white concrete sign for Utah beach in front of a path that leads to the Normandy shoreline
The sigh for Utah Beach

Utah Beach and its surrounding landscape were also predominately used by the American forces, particularly for their airborne divisions. Like Britain’s Sword Beach at the far east of the Normandy landings, Utah was used to parachute in airborne troops. This was in addition to the vast number of infantries heading into the unknown from the masses of landing crafts.

Thankfully, the loss incurred here never met with the extent of Omaha Beach.

a memorial plaque at a lookout point over utah beach in normandy, france
Lookout over Utah Beach

What caught my eye was the effort made to keep the history alive. There were some lovely bronze statues set amongst the sand dunes and even a landing craft.

Also, here and directly on the beach where the troops disembarked is the Museum of Landings. Which chronologically takes you through the fascinating story of D-Day.

A statue of two soldiers at the memorial on Utah Beach.
Memorial at Utah Beach

Useful website for planning

For a little more information about planning your Normandy road trip, browse through the official Normandy Tourism website.

Normandy American Cemetery

A resting place for heroes

Positioned high above Omaha Beach, the Normandy American Cemetery literally take your breath away, and it’s astonishing.

When you see lying before you, row after row, after row, of symmetrical white crosses, the magnitude of the ultimate sacrifice that our loved ones undertook, stops you in your tracks.

A field of headstones in the Normandy American Cemetery. The cross of Frank D Peregory is decorated with a gold star and Medal of Honor inscription.
Frank D Peregory - Medal of Honor, Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial
The never-ending sea of symmetrical white crosses will make you catch a lump in your throat; it is so touching. The occasional little Star-spangled banner fluttering in the breeze is the only thing that distracts your eye.
The reflective pond in front of the memorial at the Normandy American Cemetery.
Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial

It is unbelievably moving, standing in front of the headstones of 9,387 fallen soldiers. The memorial wall dedicated to the missing lists 1,557 names. A little rosette marks the names of those since recovered and identified.

Try not to be rushed here; time needs to be dedicated to respectfully wandering amongst the thousands of names.

The 'Spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves' statue in the centre of the memorial garden at the Normandy American Cemetery.
The Spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves - Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial

There’s a fantastic visitor centre at the Normandy American Cemetery. It’s open all year round, and it’s free of charge to visit.

You may even recognize the cemetery from the opening & closing scenes of 'Saving Private Ryan'

It's the little things

You'll notice the British and American headstones differ in the person they remember.

The British record
Regiment emblem, Service number, Rank, Initials & surname, Regiment, Date of death, Age at death

The Americans record
First name, initials & surname, Rank, Regiment, Home State, Date of death

No Names, No Remains

But not forgotten
What I found most heart wrenching, were the memorials to the Soldiers with no names but remains and to the Soldiers with names but no remains.
A simple white marble cross dedicated to an unknown soldier in front of rows of further headstones in the Normandy American Cemetery
The Omaha Beach D-Day Memorial
The Bayeux Memorial, at the Bayeux War Cemetery, which commemorates more than 1,800 casualties of the Commonwealth forces who died in Normandy and have no known grave.
To those who have no grave – Bayeux
For anyone that has travelled to this region of France or further north, you’ll know, how frequently you’ll be passing a war cemetery. Whether it is from the First or Second World War, there are just so many as a reminder of selfless sacrifice.
The view over the Étaples military cemetery in france
The impressive Étaples Military Cemetery

We have visited quite a few war cemeteries over our years of travelling through France and Belgium.

Last year, as a remembrance to the local men in our village of Eccles (Kent) who lost their lives in WWI, we headed across the channel to discover their last resting places and visited 12 different cemeteries.

The Eccles War Memorial and Clock, Eccles
The Eccles War Memorial and Clock

Personal stories

Do you have any of your own personal stories you’d care to share with us? We’d love to hear about your ancestors.

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