by Janis / 6 comments - Orginally published:16th October 2018

Elegance on the Côte d'Azur.

When you arrive at Villefranche-sur-Mer, you’ll be forgiven if you think you’ve stepped into your own dream.

The horseshoe-shaped cove that Villefranche is nestled in, is stunning. Pastel coloured buildings, clear blue water, boats bobbing in the bay and all the style you’d expect from the French Riviera. Ahhhh the “joie de vivre”.

There is the very essence of elegance; maybe you'll pass an impressive car, the owner waiting to check in to the Welcome Hotel. However, behind him, in the corner of the quayside, is the guy selling his catch of the day, proving Villefranche-sur-Mer is still very much rooted in the past.

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Where is Villefranche sur Mer?

How to get to Villefranche sur Mer

- By Train
You can catch a train from Paris Gare De Lyon to Nice, and change for Villefranche sur Mer (that train then takes the coastal route all the way to Monaco)

- By Car
Villefranche-sur-Mer is about 5 miles from the A6 autoroute

- By Air
The nearest international airport is Nice Côte d'Azur Airport, around 9miles/15km away.

We have returned to Villefranche sur Mer

and can you blame us?
We visited Villefranche sur Mer in 2012, and the fact that I didn’t want to leave was a sure sign we would return.
Looking along the jetting in front of the Welcome hote on the qauyside of Villefranche-sur-Mer
The Welcome Hotel in Villefranche-sur-Mer

We’ve spoilt ourselves and stayed in the harbour-front Welcome Hotel, so we could fully immerse in the Côte d’Azur splendour. And I could gaze out in the bay and keep an eye on the yachts.

That may not be our car, that's been carefully parked away, but the fisherman is selling his wares.

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Exploring Villefranche sur Mer

Full of charm

Villefranche-sur-Mer is a reasonably small town, nestled in a bay between Nice and Monaco. It’s easy to see why it is popular with visitors, as it is so picturesque and charming day and night.

Villefranche makes a perfect long weekend break; Nice airport is just a short hop around the bay.

The bustling quayside of Villefranche-sur-Mer in the evening full of motor launched docked in the bay next to the restaurants
The quayside of Villefranche-sur-Mer

We stayed in Villefranche sur Mer for a few days, using it as a base to explore the surrounding region.

However, for one day, we took it at a relaxed pace and went to discover what Villefranche-sur-Mer had to offer.

Looking down through the narrow lanes of Villefranche-sur-Mer between the brightly coloured buildings to the blue waters of the bay
The view to the bay in Villefranche-sur-Mer
A table & chairs at the edge of the harbour of Villefranche-sur-Mer in front of 3 small yachts.
The quayside of Villefranche-sur-Mer

Make a restaurant reservation in Villefranche-sur-Mer

If there is a restaurant you like the look of, ensure you make a reservation. You wouldn’t want to be disappointed.

Out and about in Villefranche-sur-Mer

Exploring on foot
As usual, I’m drawn to the water, and we head to the small harbour for a stroll. The water is so clear I’m tempted to dip my toes in (perhaps not quite yet).
The view of the bay in front of Villefranche-sur-Mer lined from the beach
The beautiful bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer
We watched the local fisherman moor up with his catch and set up his stall on the harbour front. He does this most days, and what you see is what you get with the ‘catch of the day’.
The harbour of Villefranche-sur-Mer, with a small fishing boat in the foreground and the hillside in the background.
The fish stall on the quayside of Villefranche-sur-Mer

If you love Provence as much as we do, you'll want to start planning your visit now.

I so enjoy using the DK Eyewitness books, as they are extremely informative, easy to follow and the pictures and maps tempt you into discovering more.

We used a previous version of this book to plan our Provencal road trip, now you can grab the revised copy.

DK Provence Cover

Relaxing at Villefranche-sur-Mer

Discovering the beach
Wandering further around the bay of Villefranche sur Mer, we head towards the main beach, ‘Plage des Marinières’. It stretches for around 1km and is quite a draw for catching the rays, even at 10 a.m.
People enjoying the beach at Villefranche-sur-Mer
Plage des Marinières
Ok, so I had to do it; I went for a paddle in the sea. It was so lovely & refreshing; however, it took me longer to get the sand out of my toes than the brief dip itself.
Janis with her toes in the Mediterranean sea as it laps up to the beach in Villefranche-sur-Mer.
Toe-dipping in the med in Villefrance-sur-Mer, France

Crit'Air vignette required for driving in France

If you’re heading to France from the UK with your own vehicle, you’ll need a Crit’Air ‘clean air’ car sticker.

Just like our low-emission zones in the UK, France now legally requires the display of a Crit’Air vignette. The good news is, these stickers are readily available and affordable online through the official French government website.

The Crit’Air sticker lasts the lifetime of the vehicle, so it’s a one-off purchase. The RAC website offers an in-depth guide to everything you need to know and your requirements.

There's more to Villefranche sur Mer

About turn
After my brief splash in the sea, we head towards the citadel and Villefranche’s other harbour, La Darse.
The exterior view of the fisherman's church, Chapelle Saint-Pierre, in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Chapelle Saint-Pierre

Walking back along the quay, we stop at the eye-catching Chapelle Saint-Pierre. The chapel dates from the 16th century; due to its proximity to the harbour, the church used to be used by local fisherman to store their nets.

The chapel was restored around 1957, and Jean Cocteau painted colourful nautical murals on the inside walls of this tiny chapel, which were quite amazing.

Good to know

Gary and I did go into the Chapelle Saint-Pierre; however, no photography was allowed (they were quite insistent), and it costs around €3.

La Darse at Villefranche-sur-Mer

Discovering the quiet side
Continuing around the water’s edge encircling the citadel walls, we head to Port de la Darse. The stroll around the bay is lovely, and the views are incredible. You could see the fish in the crystal-clear water.
The view to the La Darse harbour in Villefranche-sur-Mer from the path that runs alongside the citadel wall.
Around the Citadel wall to La Darse harbour

La Darse harbour is lower key than its sister around the bay, but equally really pleasant and has some lovely little eateries.

It is well worth checking out if you want to see the other side of Villefranche sur Mer, day trippers and casual tourists often overlook this picturesque setting.

Boats moored up in La Darse harbour, set against the hills behind Villefranche-sur-Mer
Boats in La Darse harbour at Villefranche-sur-Mer

Strolling around Villefranche sue Mer

Go with the flow
We spent some time around here as the atmosphere was so relaxing. However, time waits for no man, so we headed back towards the town. Strolling up passing the castle, through the floral gardens.
Looking across the water from La Darse harbour in Villefranche-sur-Mer to the Citadel with it high stone walls set into the coastline.
The Citadel of Villefranche-sur-Mer

If you wish, you can visit the Citadelle Saint-Elme, which now houses an art centre and a museum.

Whatever you choose, you are guaranteed views that will last a lifetime.

Boats moored up in La Darse harbour, set against the hills behind Villefranche-sur-Mer
The view from the castle of Villefranche-sur-Mer

Have You?

Visited any beautiful towns or villages along the Côte d'Azur, that you’d love to share? Drop us a comment, and I’ll add them to my wish list?

Villefranche-sur-Mer Old Town

Stepping back in time

The old town of Villefranche is an intriguing maze of old narrow lanes and alleys; it’s fantastic.

With restaurants overflowing into the evening sunshine and boutiques drawing you in, you just can't help but smile.

A pedestrian lane in Villefranche-sur-Mer lined with building painted in the bright colours, against the backdrop of the hills that surround the town.
The coloured lanes of Villefranche-sur-Mer
A narrow lane between bright coloured tall buildings in Villefranche-sur-Mer.
The quiet lanes of Villefranche-sur-Mer
As you climb up through the streets, the lanes crisscross in front of you, and high above, washing is hanging out to dry, and window boxes are brimming with flowers. It’s such an incredible place.
Steps up a narrow lane in Villefranche-sur-Mer at night
The lanes at night
Steps leading up to a courtyard in Villefranche-sur-Mer at night
Where does it lead?

Hidden Villefranche-sur-Mer

Rue Obscure
However, the most fascinating part of the town is the Rue Obscure or the ‘Dark Street’, which dates from 1260 and runs underneath the buildings along the harbour front.
Looking along the jetting in front of the Welcome hote on the qauyside of Villefranche-sur-Mer
Rue Obscure

It felt very eerie even when we wandered through in the daytime.

I can’t imagine what ne’re-do-wells would have got up to along here hundreds of years ago.

The dimly lit passageway of Rue Obscure in Villefranche-sur-Mer
The dark passage
The Rue Obscure in Villefranche-sur-Mer lit 24/7
A hidden lane
It was like a smugglers' paradise; I thought we would come across a lair for rum runners.
Looking through an arch to the bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer.
Leading from the Rue Obscure
And then you turn a corner, and a familiar sight springs into view.

Why not?

Start creating your own French adventure and discover the beautiful bays & harbours for yourself. Search for your flights in one easy place with ebookers.com. Over 400 airlines are scanned for your favoured routes and chosen dates.

Or alternatively, catch a Brittany Ferry and tour through France under your own steam.

The extravagance of Villefranche sur Mer

Out of my league
Villefranche sur Mer, as you can imagine, is popular with the wealthy; however, instead of rubbing shoulders with us, they moor out in the bay.
A couple of expensive motor yachts in the bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer
Dropping anchor in the bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer
Actually, the truth be told, they may mingle among us, and if you want to know who is moored out in the bay, then why not download Ship Finder in your favourite app store?

Tempted to?

Discover more of France and create your own Côte d'Azur memories. It’s so easy to do this on a road trip. Rental Cars search multiple well-known car hire brands and discover the deals that suit you the best.

Where to stay in Villefranche-sur-Mer

Or where we stayed
Our accommodation for the four nights we were in Villefranche-sur-Mer, was at the Welcome Hotel, where we stayed in 2012. The location is stunning with beautiful views across the bay. A perfect place to enjoy a nightcap.
The view of sunrise over the bay from the balcony of our room at The Welcome hotel in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Sunrise view, the Welcome Hotel in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Parking in Villefranche sur Mer is not the easiest; this hotel offers valet parking. It is a little on the expensive side; however, your car is secure.
Two glasses of rosé wine in front of the harbour of Villefranche-sur-Mer at night.
An evening drink at Villefranche-sur-Mer

Why not check out these other posts?

If you're in the area, then you may want to take a look at some other posts from our trips to Villefranche sur Mer.

Whilst Villefranche sur Mer is fantastic, it wouldn't hurt to take a look around whilst you are in the south of France.

Featured image for “A few hours in Nice, France”
Feb. 15, 2019

A few hours in Nice, France

Featured image for “Tourrettes-sur-Loup, France”
Jan. 22, 2019

Tourrettes-sur-Loup, France

Featured image for “A stroll around the harbour of Saint-Tropez, France”
Oct. 09, 2018

A stroll around the harbour of Saint-Tropez, France

Where to eat in Villefranche-sur-Mer

Or again, where can we recommend
Our favourite restaurant from the four nights that we were in Villefranche was Les Garçons. Sitting under the evening stars and enjoying the freshly prepared dishes that arrived in front of us was wonderful. They had a delightful range of local produce, which they switched around on their menu.
The daily menu, on a chalk board, of the Cote Jardin restaurant in Villefranche-sur-Mer
The Cote Jardin menu board

Other restaurants and bistros that we can recommend are;

Cote Jardin - We had a fabulous lunch here - a fusion of Asian spices 
La Grignotiere Restaurant - A family-run favourite of ours
L'Aparte - Great atmosphere & food
La Mere Germaine - excellent location, good food, and a great place to people-watch

Our video of Villefranche sur Mer

We have created a little YouTube video of Villefranche sure Mer  Why not take a look?

Also, why not subscribe to our YouTube channel and get the latest clips as we post them?

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  1. Reply

    I’ve never had the opportunity to travel outside of Paris, but I’d love to explore more, and this looks like such a charming place. As always your magnificent photos really make the place come to life. #farawayfiles

    1. Reply

      Thanks Hilary

      France is a wonderful country, I love all the differences you see & taste from region to region. Villefranche-sur-Mer is lovely, when you stroll around the bay you feel like you’ve stepped into someone else’s world.

  2. Reply

    I have wanted to go here for so long! I first discovered it at the end of a Cary Grant film, An Affair to Remember. It’s so beautiful and looks way less crowded and touristy than neighboring Nice. Pinned! #FarawayFiles

    1. Reply

      I do remember seeing it in An Affair to Remember, that’s a great film.

      Villefranche-sur-Mer is quite a special place & very picturesque, although it does get crowded as well at times, but on a smaller scale than Nice. It’s lovely wandering around in the evening sunshine admiring the yachts in the bay.

    1. Reply

      Thanks very much, yes it is a beautiful region of France, I love all the hilltop villages along the Corniche.

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