by Janis / 0 comments - Orginally published:22nd September 2026
In the rural heart of East Sussex
The charming market town of Lewes sits deep in the heart of the picturesque county of East Sussex and is a perfect location for a historical day trip. Immerse yourself in a slice of old England and wend your way through ancient lanes among stunning architecture.
Lewes has a wonderfully calm, unhurried feel about it, and the instant you wander its pretty streets, a sense of relaxation washes over you. Gary and I visited Lewes on a beautiful spring day, and it was such a pleasure to stroll through the ancient county town.
If you are touring East Sussex for a few days, I also highly recommend visiting the bustling seaside town of Hastings, nearby Battle, where the Battle of Hastings took place and also the stunning towns of Rye and Winchelsea.
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Where is Lewes?
How to get to Lewes
- By Train
Lewes is linked by several rail connections; from London, you can journey from London Victoria and London Bridge. There are also lines from Southampton, Ashford, Brighton and connecting services to London Gatwick.
- By Car
If you’re approaching from the north, the Lewes area is connected via the M25/M23 and M26 motorways. From the west is the A27/A272, and to the east you have the option of the coast road, the A259.
A brief history of Lewes
From the Saxons to the NormansLewes has an intriguing history that you can almost see layered through the streets. Lewes sits in the South Downs and straddles the River Ouse; it was an important settlement long before the Norman Conquest.
Lewes Castle & Museum
The Saxons recognised the value of its naturally defensive position, and Lewes developed into a significant fortified town, or burh. By the time the Normans arrived in 1066, it was already an established and prosperous place, which probably explains why they wasted very little time making their presence felt.
Lewes Priory ruins
One of the most obvious reminders of that Norman period is Lewes Castle. William de Warenne, one of William the Conqueror's most powerful supporters, established it soon after the conquest. William de Warenne and his wife, Gundrada, also founded Lewes Priory.
Attractive buildings
Harvey’s Brewery shop
Lewes really earned its place in the history books in 1264, with the Battle of Lewes during the Second Barons' War. Simon de Montfort's forces defeated the army of King Henry III in fighting around the town. Henry and his son, the future Edward I, were captured.
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A little more history of Lewes
From garrisons to gunpowderHowever, what makes Lewes particularly enjoyable today is that its history doesn't feel confined to one castle or museum. Walking along the High Street and into the smaller lanes, you find buildings from numerous periods standing shoulder to shoulder, medieval survivals, timber-framed houses, Georgian façades and Victorian additions.
Lewes Town Hall
Anne of Cleves House, despite the name suggesting a grand royal residence, was actually part of the property settlement Anne received following the annulment of her marriage to Henry VIII. The steep, cobbled Keere Street is another lovely reminder of just how old the layout of the town is.
Anne of Cleves House
Lewes also developed a strong tradition of independence and religious dissent. The town remembers that history most dramatically every 5 November, when it holds its famous Bonfire celebrations.
The event combines memories of the Gunpowder Plot with the commemoration of 17 Protestant martyrs who were burned in Lewes during the reign of Mary I. This tradition stretches back centuries and has evolved into one of Britain's largest and most distinctive Bonfire Night celebrations. It can become very busy, so arrive early for the evening’s revelries.
Fitzroy House, designed by George Gilbert Scott
Lewes War Memorial
Lewes feels like a town that has simply grown around its history rather than replacing it. Which makes it a particularly enjoyable place to explore slowly, with a story almost everywhere you turn.
Escape for a few days
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Browse through the handpicked properties and unique retreats at Holiday Cottages.
Lewes full of flavour
Harvey’s Brewery & Farmer’s MarketHarvey's Brewery is a real Lewes institution and has been part of the town's story for more than two centuries. The Harvey family began brewing in Lewes around 1820, moving to the present Bridge Wharf site in 1838, while the striking Gothic Victorian brewery you see beside the River Ouse today was built in 1881.
Harvey’s Brewery
What makes Harvey's rather special is that it remains independent and family-owned, with descendants of John Harvey still involved in the business generations later. It's also a very traditional Sussex brewery, best known for beers such as Sussex Best Bitter, and it even draws brewing water from an artesian well beneath the site, filtered naturally through the chalk of the South Downs.
John Harvey Tavern
We had a spot of lunch at the John Harvey Tavern, and it was delicious; they even do a great selection low-alcohol local brew.
Sign for Lewes Farmers Market
Lewes Farmers' Market is held on the 1st & 3rd Saturday at Friars Walk, adds another lovely local flavour to the town. Established in 1998, it's become one of Sussex's most successful farmers' markets, bringing together local producers selling everything from vegetables, meat and dairy produce to bread, cakes, preserves and other locally made treats.
Lewes Tourist Information
If you’re tempted to explore Lewes, the Visit Lewes website is the place to head. The website is full of extremely useful information and includes handy pointers for around the county of East Sussex.
Exploring Cliffe High Street
On the lookout for antiquesCliffe High Street is a charming part of Lewes and one that's particularly pleasant simply just to amble along. This was once the main road east out of Lewes and, remarkably, part of the busy A27 until the late 1960s; today it's very pedestrian-friendly, lined with historic buildings, independent stores, cafés and the antique shops for which Lewes has become rather well known.
Cliffe High Street
Looking towards Cliffe Bridge
There's plenty of history beneath your feet too. What is now called Cliffe High Street was originally West Street in the separate settlement of Cliffe, which wasn't incorporated into Lewes until 1881. The street leads down towards the River Ouse and Cliffe Bridge, so as you wander along there's a lovely sense of the old commercial town gradually meeting the riverside.
Cliffe Bridge, Lewes
Cliffe Bridge has carried people across the River Ouse for centuries, with a bridge recorded here as early as 1159. However, the delightful single-arched bridge you see today dates largely from 1726–27 and was later reconstructed in 1932.
Discovering the ancient streets of Lewes
In the footsteps of timeOne of the loveliest things about Lewes is that you don't really need a plan to discover its history; wander away from the main streets, and you'll soon find yourself in a maze of narrow lanes, passages, twittens, and steep little streets.
Southover High Street
The town's position on the slopes of the South Downs means there are plenty of unexpected climbs and dips, with old flint walls, timber-framed buildings, and glimpses of the surrounding hills appearing between the houses.
Bottom of Keere Street
Looking down Keere Street
Perhaps the most impressive is Keere Street, a wonderfully steep cobbled lane dropping from the High Street towards Southover. It runs alongside the line of Lewes's old town wall, and most of the buildings lining it are now Grade II listed, largely dating from the late 18th and 19th centuries.
Be sure to wear flat shoes as the cobbles can be a bit challenging, but it’s undoubtedly worth the climb.
The King’s Head, Southover High Street
Elsewhere, streets such as Southover High Street, Station Street, Fisher Street and the little passages leading away from the High Street reveal just how old the town's layout really is. Station Street, for example, was once known as St Mary's Lane and has a history stretching back around a thousand years; it only acquired its present name after the railway arrived in Victorian times.
Town Walls leading to Elm Grove
Pretty lanes in Lewes
That's really the pleasure of exploring Lewes on foot: the streets themselves are part of the attraction. You can turn down an unassuming alleyway, climb a cobbled lane or pass beneath an old arch and suddenly feel as though you've slipped away from the modern town altogether, which makes getting slightly lost here rather enjoyable.
Discover our other adventures in East Sussex
East Sussex is a beautiful county to tour around; there are so many incredible villages and towns to visit, and plenty of National Trust sites to explore. Take a peek at the places that we’ve discovered so far. Follow along with us on our social media platforms above, and you’ll never miss a post.
Jan. 25, 2017
The Ancient Town of Rye, East Sussex
Feb. 01, 2017
The Mermaid Inn, Rye, East Sussex
Oct. 11, 2019
A day trip to Battle Abbey, East Sussex, England
Oct. 06, 2020
A visit to the historic coastal town of Hastings, East Sussex, UK
Oct. 05, 2021
A visit to the picturesque town Battle in East Sussex
Nov. 09, 2021
Explore the enchanting, moated ruins of Bodiam Castle
Visiting Lewes Castle
The history of Bull HouseLewes Castle is one of the town's great landmarks, standing high above the rooftops and offering wonderful views across Lewes and the surrounding South Downs. Built shortly after the Norman Conquest by William de Warenne, a powerful supporter of William the Conqueror, Lewes Castle is particularly unusual because it developed with two mottes, or castle mounds, rather than the more usual single mound.
Lewes Castle Barbican
Tower of Lewes Castle
Much of what survives today dates from the 11th and 12th centuries, including the impressive stone keep and gateway. Climb to the top, and you get the best view in Lewes, as well as a real sense of why the Normans chose this commanding position from which to control the town and the surrounding countryside.
Beneath Lewes Castle Barbican
Bull House on Lewes High Street is an eye-catching historic building best known as the former home of Thomas Paine, the influential political writer and revolutionary thinker who lived there during the 1760s and early 1770s. At the time, it formed part of the Bull Inn, and it was in Lewes that Paine became involved in local debating and political discussion before leaving England for America in 1774 and becoming a Founding Father.
Plaque to Thomas Paine on Bull House
Today, the building is closely associated with Paine's remarkable story and provides another reminder that Lewes's history isn't just about castles and medieval streets.
Strolling through Lewes Priory ruins
Medieval Cluniac PrioryLewes Priory, or the Priory of St Pancras, was once one of medieval England’s most important monasteries. It was founded around 1081 by William de Warenne and his wife Gundrada. The couple brought monks from the great Abbey of Cluny in Burgundy, making Lewes the first Cluniac priory in England and eventually the head of a network of Cluniac monasteries across the country.
Lewes Priory
The priory grew into an enormous and wealthy religious complex, with a great church, cloisters, chapter house, an infirmary, and accommodation for the monks. William and Gundrada were both buried here, and for several centuries the priory strongly influenced the religious and economic life of Lewes. Its location near the River Ouse also placed it close to important medieval routes through Sussex.
Prospect Tower
Its fortunes changed dramatically during Henry VIII's Dissolution of the Monasteries, and the priory was surrendered to the Crown in 1537. Much of the complex was subsequently demolished, with stone taken away and reused in buildings around Lewes.
Amongst the Priory walls
Today only fragments remain, but there's enough to give you some idea of the enormous scale of the original monastery. And that's what makes the ruins so fascinating; standing among these relatively modest remains, it's difficult to imagine that this quiet corner of Lewes was once home to one of medieval England's greatest monastic houses.
Southover Grange Gardens
Just a short stroll from Lewes Priory is Southover Grange Gardens, which provides a lovely contrast to the ancient priory ruins. The gardens surround a handsome 16th century house built using stone taken from the dissolved Lewes Priory, and today the lawns, flowerbeds, and mature trees make it one of the prettiest and most peaceful green spaces in the centre of Lewes.
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