by Janis / 0 comments - Orginally published:4th August 2020
Reminiscing about Aachen, Hamburg and Münster
When the opportunity arose for Gary and me to head back to Germany on a road trip, we jumped at the chance. Incredible architecture, fascinating history, friendly locals and an abundance of sausages. What more could you want?
So, in autumn 2019 we jumped in our car and caught Le Shuttle under the English Channel for another adventure. This time we were off to uncover the history and culture behind the cities of Aachen, Hamburg and Münster.
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Our Memories
These consist of Our Highlights, Our Pleasures, Our Treasures, Things we would do differently, Our Disappointments & and other Points of Note. You can click on a title to jump to that section and then click on that headline to return here
Our three-city road trip
The local tourist offices
Aachen Cathedral
Aachen Dom is a genuinely magnificent Cathedral, and when you step inside, you’ll understand why it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was the first monument in Germany to be given this status in 1978, and it was also one of the original 12 sites to be listed by UNESCO.
The dome of Aachen cathedral
The detail in the Karlsschrein
When we visited the Dom, we were given a one to one tour by a lady that had been married in the Cathedral. It felt such a privilege as this incredibly ornate and beautiful building is so ancient.
It was Charlemagne ‘Charles the Great’ that instructed for the original octagonal chapel to be constructed between 793 and 813. Charlemagne died in 814 and is buried in a golden shrine within the chapel.
Where to stay in Aachen
We had a pleasant, enjoyable stay at the Mercure Aachen Europaplatz it’s in a quiet location and plenty of parking.
St. Lamberti Church
St Lamberti Church in the heart of Münster truly has some gruesome history. Look carefully on the outside of the tower, and you’ll spot three iron cages, hanging on the side.
St. Lamberti Church
The three iron Anabaptist cages on St. Lamberti Church
The true grisly story behind the three cages is in the mid-16th-century, the Anabaptists tried unsuccessfully to convert the city from Catholicism to Protestantism. Their bodies were then hung on display as an act of warning to the town. The original cages remain. In 1987 as part of Münster’s public art exhibition, three faint lights were placed inside to denote their three souls.
The Tower Keeper at St. Lamberti Church
The Tower Keeper at St Lamberti Church has been keeping the city of Münster safe for over 630 years. We were given the opportunity to visit the Tower Keeper. For the first time in over six centuries, the role is being undertaken by a lady, Martje Salje.
We climbed the 300 spiralling stone steps, and when we reached the top, it was magnificent and the night skyline across the city was breath-taking.
Martje the Tower Keeper tooting the nightly horn
Following Martje out onto the top of the 246 feet (75 metres) tall tower was an incredible experience. Each evening, except Tuesday, Martje blows the horn from the top of the tower. In the direction of north, south and west at 9pm until midnight, every 30 minutes.
Unless there is anything untoward, Martje sounds the all-clear toot, and Münster can breathe a sigh of relief, that the city is free from fires or enemies beyond.
Where to stay in Münster
We stayed at the luxurious and beautiful Hotel Schloss Wilkinghege, set in a tranquil location, with ample parking and it even has a moat.
Speicherstadt
I loved strolling around the Speicherstadt district, Hamburg’s ‘warehouse city’. It has incredible neo-gothic red brick buildings and meandering canals which were once alive with dockworkers. Today the Speicherstadt is popular for different reasons. As it is a lovely place for socialising, people-watching and visiting Hamburg’s maritime museum.
The iconic view of the Speicherstadt district
It’s a fantastic area to head to of an evening, as the sunsets and the evening light swathes across the historic warehouses it is delightful.
The Speicherstadt and Kontorhaus District with Chilehaus were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015.
Where to stay in Hamburg
The Best Western Premier Alsterkrug Hotel is a great place to stay, it’s close to the airport and has excellent secure parking.
Elbe Tunnel
The Elbe Tunnel may not be on every visitor’s list; however, we found it fascinating. The Old Elbe Tunnel has now been refurbished and kept in its original Art Deco style, with glazed ceramic tiling all the way through. It was built in 1911 as a pedestrian and vehicle tunnel.
The old Elbe Tunnel
Today the tunnels are mainly used for cyclist and pedestrians, as during the 1970s the ‘new’ Elbe Tunnel and bridges were built. Ensure you pop out at the other end as you get fantastic views across Hamburg city.
Aachen walking tour
When we visited Aachen, we embarked on a guided walking tour, which was incredibly fascinating. As not only is Aachen synonymous with Charlemagne it also has a history dating from the Romans and was once a prosperous spa town.
Elisenbrunnen
The Elisenbrunnen, with its striking pillared colonnade, stands at the forefront of what would have been the grand Roman thermal baths. There is still a warm flowing fountain in the Elisenbrunnen which is fed by the spring.
The Rathaus from the rear
There is beautiful architecture dotted throughout the city, particularly the Gothic Rathaus and the delightful buildings that surround it.
Münster Rathaus & Hall of Peace
While visiting Münster, we joined a fascinating 2-hour walking tour of the city. The history and intrigue that Münster has witnessed over the centuries are incredible.
The Rathaus at dusk
The striking gothic building in the heart of the city is Münster’s town hall or Rathaus. The Rathaus was lovingly restored during the 1950s to its original character from the mid-14th-century. Step inside, and you’re able to visit the Friedenssaal “Hall of Peace” it is the most important room in the historic town hall. It’s here that the Spanish-Dutch Peace Treaty was ratified in May 1648. In the same year, the signing of the Peace of Westphalia took place which ended the Thirty Years’ War.
Original wood panelling in the “Hall of Peace”
The wood panelling and all the seats that now encircle the “Hall of Peace” are original as they were kept in storage during WWII.
Elbphilharmonie
The Elbphilharmonie concert hall is now such an iconic site across the Hamburg skyline, even though it only opened in January 2017.
The Elbphilharmonie
I highly recommend heading to the viewing gallery to enjoy the 360-degree view across Hamburg, the Landungsbrücken piers and the city’s port.
A visit to the viewing gallery is free, grab your ticket at the main entrance and hop on the world’s first arched escalator. The top segment of Elbphilharmonie is constructed entirely of glass.
Enjoy an evening cruise
Why not hop onto an evening cruise along the canals of Speicherstadt? Journey through Hamburg’s illuminated harbour and admire Elbe Philharmonic Hall from a whole new perspective.
Café 1648
During our Münster walking tour, our guide took us to the recently opened café 1648. Which not only offers delightful panoramic views across the city’s rooftops, but it also serves delicious coffee.
Enjoying the view from Café 1648
Am Knipp – Aachen’s oldest Inn – 1698
As Gary and I are always “When in Rome” types of folk, we never hesitate to sample the local food and drink around the globe. Admittedly there have been some regrets, but hey, you have to give it a go.
Am Knipp Inn dating from 1698
Therefore, Aachen was no different, we searched out the city’s oldest inn. Which was Am Knipp and dates from 1698. Dining at Am Knipp was a lovely experience, rich in tradition, everyone was so friendly, and we shared a table with a local family.
Münsterländer Wurstpfanne
Ahh yes, we couldn’t visit Münster and not head to its oldest inn. Altes Gasthaus Leve has been in existence since 1607.
Münsterländer Wurstpfanne
It has an excellent selection of traditional German food and ales. Gary, with his love of German sausages, chose the regional dish Münsterländer Wurstpfanne. Apparently, it was delicious, although I passed on that one.
Aachener Printen
I love gingerbread and Aachen has so many delectable choices, our favourite Aachener Printen is from ‘Klein’. Each shop has its own twist of the recipe, and you can choose from several varieties. Some are soft, some are hard, and others are covered in icing, nuts and chocolate.
Klein Aachener Printen
Printen is even used in a sauce to accompany Sauerbraten (roasted meat).
Reisfladen
There’s always time for a slice of cake, and another speciality of Aachen is Reisfladen. This is a baked rice cake, and if you enjoy rice pudding, which a lot of British people do, you’ll love this.
Reisfladen – traditional rice cake from Van Den Daele café
Our Treasures
St Nicholas Church and tower
St.-Nikolai-Kirche is an emotional and touching place to visit. Hamburg suffered extensively during WWII, and St Nicholas Church stands as a poignant symbol to this.
The only sections that remain are the tower, spire and crypt, within the crypt is a fascinating museum.
St Nikolai-church tower
A view from St Nikolai-church tower
You are able to visit the top of the tower a lift has been installed and transports you 247 feet (75 metres) above, to a platform within the spire.
There are historic storyboards within the spire that follow the church’s history through time. The views from here are incredible too.
Aachen’s Fountains
Another aspect I enjoyed about Aachen was its many tactile fountains and statues. I particularly loved the one named ‘Circle of Money’ located on the corner of Elisengarten.
Beggar at the Circle of Money Fountain
Bronze Puppenbrunnen with hinged limbs
Each bronze character depicts the changing hands of money. Whether it’s a young girl receiving pocket money or a beggar pleading with a banker. All the while, the water feature is flowing in never-ending circles.
Keep a lookout for the interactive bronze Puppenbrunnen and the Hühnerdieb - ‘Chicken Thief’.
Chilehaus
Also, part of Hamburg’s UNESCO inscription is the beautiful Chilehaus. The incredible lines that have been created by the architect Fritz Höger are stunning. The 1920’s 10-storey office building has been designed in the shape of a ship’s prow.
The pointy end of Chilehaus
I urge you to visit of an evening if you can, it’s even more elegant and stylish when it is illuminated.
Miniatur Wunderland
I’m sure there is a big kid inside everyone waiting to get out, if so, then head over to Miniatur Wunderland, in Hamburg’s Speicherstadt district.
I was going to refer to it as a model village, but it’s actually more of a city.
Hamburg's Elbphilharmonie in Miniatur Wunderland
Every 15 minutes, the whole ‘Wunderland’ will cover a 24-hour period. So, whichever location you are in, whether it’s the ski-slopes of Switzerland, the charming Italian villages or the bright lights of Las Vegas the whole museum descends into nightfall.
HafenCity Universität U-Bahn station
You may think visiting a U-Bahn station is a little odd; however, the lighting at HafenCity Universität is unlike your usual underground station.
HafenCity Universität in red
HafenCity Universität in blue
We jumped on the U4 line and headed over to HafenCity Universität. The fascinating huge overhead cubes that run along the centre of the rail station are captivating. They are repeatedly pulsating in and out and altering colour as they go.
Let us know!
Have you visited Aachen, Hamburg or Münster we’d love to hear about your highlights? Please drop a comment below.
Things to do differently
One for next time
We enjoyed our visits to Aachen and Münster so much that we are going to head back there for the German Christmas markets.
Hamburg at Christmas, Hamburg, Germany
I love nothing more than planning a trip and so often I use the DK Eyewitness books. I find them extremely informative, easy to follow and the pictures and maps tempt you into discovering more.
We used a previous version of this book to plan our Germany road trips, now you can grab the revised copy.
Our Disappointment
We ran out of time
I would have loved to have visited the museum at Hamburg Kunsthalle. However, we ran out of time and in my opinion, you can’t rush an art gallery.
Points of Note
Low Emission Zone (LEZs), Autobahns and Tolls
Germany - Be aware that some German towns and cities have Low Emission Zones. Therefore, you will require a sticker for the windscreen of your car, to signify which category your car emissions fall into.
We found the following websites useful; also, you can apply online in advance for the sticker for €6 (2019). The Urban Access Regulations in Europe details all the European emission zones and the Senate Department for Environment is where you can purchase you Germany LEZ sticker.
When you drive along an autobahn in Germany, you may not even be aware that you are on one (they are not signposted). It’s not until you feel the vibration of a vehicle whisking past your window that you know you’ve arrived. I would like to highlight that in my opinion, German drivers are quite considerate.
France - If you are driving from the UK you will undoubtedly be travelling across France. In France, you pay the tolls as you go, and I recommend using a credit card as it is a lot quicker and simpler passing through.
Disclaimer
Our visits to Aachen, Hamburg and Münster were arranged in partnership with the local tourist offices. In exchange for honest reviews and an account of our personal experiences.
* This post may contain links to affiliated sites where we earn a small commission at no additional charge to you.
